brutus

I ride my Raga on the "rain" position all the time, lot smoother and less stalling. Btw, if you remove the switch and don't shortcut the wires (so leave them loose), the bikes permanent on rain.

I put 300cc in my '05 Raga. I was told by the Dutch Importer of GasGas and the Dutch Trialchampion '07 (Who rides Raga's) to use ATF oil and to put in just enough to see it at the bottom of the oillevel sightglass. Level will rise as engine warms up.

My 280 has a drainplug for the cranckcase, check if you have one, saves a lot of trouble turning your bike upside down.

I use a 10liter jerrycan and change gearoil after emptying 2 jerrycans of fuel, that would be 20+ hours of driving!

Imho you only have to change the gearboxoil the same frequency as for a two-stroke! If you change the engineoil and its stil very clear than your replacing it to soon, not that you should use it till it's black but it's no problem if it looks "used". Another thing is that the oilfilter only starts to work properly when it gets a bit dirty so changing it to often has a reverse effect, instead of putting in a better filter, you put in a new one that doesn't work properly yet!

Hi Peter, Yes I'm a 100% sure that I rotated the plate the right direction, I even gave the kickstarter a push to see what direction the cranck is turning because I know there are engines that turn backwards! So I was puzzled a bit as well . So I'll first give this new setup a try before altering more settings. Bye, Bert

Hi Peter, Today I borrowed a flywheel puller from our local GG-dealer so I could try some different settings. First thing I noticed was that the previous owner probably tried some things to because there was allready a marking on the plate and housing! First I tried the 1mm retard as you suggested but the bike became even more powerfull (maybe the previous owner put it to early!) so I went for 3mm retard but the effect was not dramatic so I left it at the 3mm later and moved on to the needle. Instead of the d34 you suggested (My GG-dealer didn't have one on stock) I had a look at the setting of the original D36 which was on the lowest position so I moved it up one slot. This had more effect than changing the ignitiontiming so I moved the needle one more step up and now you can feel quite a difference! It's still very powerfull but less nervous at the bottom. So I'll try it this weekend and see how it goes. Do I have to do something with the mixturescrew now I have changed the needlesetting? Thanks for so far, Bert

Do I need to take the flywheel off (any holes in it?) to do the ignitionjob? I've never had the cover off.

It definately shows the potential of a small 4stroke which is not high-tech at all!

Thanks Peter, But which mod. would you start with, retarding the ignition? grtz, Bert

Can anyone tell me if there's a flywheelweight for the 2001 TXT 280? I also find it too agressive for me and like to make it more controllable.

Mine has the same only when cold, after warming up it's quiet. It also helps to keep the airfilter very clean and only use 98 octane gas.

I had a similar problem with the airbox of my TXT280, I bought the bike second hand and before riding it I checked it all over and noticed that the flange of the airbox was squashed. So I wanted to fit in a alloy ring to maintain a nice circular shape but to fit the ring I had to soften the plastic. This I tried to do with a paintstripper (like a high performance hairdryer) and the result was that the plastic flange came back to a perfect circular shape just by heating it up! After that I let it cool down and it's been perfect eversince!

My GG-dealer told me august '07.

Rode the bike again yesterday ( 3rd time after changing oil) and it seems like it's getting better (or maybe i'm getting better at it?) I also lessened the leverplay,not to much so there's still a bit of freeplay left.