stu109

I am the Secretary of the Eboracum Club in York. We often get new riders and members and I usually try and pair them up with a more experienced rider so they don't feel lost. I would have a word with the Oxford club to see if they can help you. At the very least I'm sure they will be able to introduce you to another Club member who is riding the easy route so you have someone to ride round with. I suggest you enter the event and follow round the route having a look at the sections and attempting any you feel confident about. If you watch what the other riders are doing this should give you a bit of confidence. If you enter on-line via the ACU you will be charged £3 for a ACU day licence ( in addition to the entry fee). Ideally, you should get an annual Trials Registration but these run January to December so you may want to wait till the new year. Out website (https://eboracummotorcycleclub.co.uk/ ) has some information on starting trialling and guides on using the ACU website. Good luck.

it seems unlikely that the bike could have operated successfully since 2011 without a functioning water pump. Like you, I have heard rumours of impellers melting. The cam chain runs in plastic guides so it is worth checking these are OK if it has been running hot. The tensioner has a spring mechanism. The manual will tell you how to check and reset.

Have managed to solve the issue. Got some new All Balls seals and fitted with the plastic bag tip. One stanchion had a pinhead sized blemish (a manufacturing fault I think) the other a small area of superficial scratching. I smoothed off both with fine emery paper. I did try filling with epoxy, and superglue/baking soda, and just superglue, but any remaining indentations were so shallow nothing would take. Carefully cleaned everything on reassembly and used level to set oil rather than quantity. Hopefully will last a bit!

I am having problems sealing my front forks on a 2013 Beta Evo 4T. I have changed the seals (not for the first time) but they still leak. Tried new bushes and another set of good quality fork seals, still no joy. Legs are smooth with no blemishes although the black friction coat has worn away. Any thoughts? Should I be looking to get the legs re-chromed or could there be something else amiss? Having looked at the parts catalogue internals look more like the 2014 model - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0312/4301/0185/files/2014_Evo_4_stroke_parts.pdf?v=1592579609

Was the cable routed correctly? It may be that it wasn't quite right and was pulling up the slide a bit. With the engine off, you should be able to hear the slide bumping on the stop screw if you use the twist grip to "accelerate" and then let it snap back.

It needs to pull air from the front of the rad backwards over the engine. If you start it up and let the fan start you should be able to tell which way the air is flowing.

Check the tank breather. Connect pipe to the fuel tap and drain into a container. If insufficient flow of air into the tank , flow of fuel will slow or stop. Just had this issue with me Beta. I had fitted one of those one way valves to the breather pipe and it was faulty.

Hi, I would also check the woodruff key just in case the flywheel is slipping on the shaft.

The Eboracum Motorcycle Club of York is holding a two day charity trial on the 17 and 18 April. For the first time in many years the event will include a sidecar class. I will be there on my JCM outfit for it's first competitive outing. Would be great to have some competition so we can judge just how poor we are! Details of the event here - https://www.acu.org.uk/events/April-2021/Eboracum-MCC-of-York/Trials/Moor-Farm-Ouseburn-ACU60240.aspx For those who don't have an ACU trials licence, one day licences are available. Message me if you need any more information. All proceeds go to the Yorkshire Air Ambulance.

Just because you can't find the third piece now doesn't mean its still in the cases. It could have come out with the oil at some time. My Evo lost two teeth from a gearbox cog and I only found out when they came out with the oil. Before you split the cases I would give the engine a shake and see if you can hear anything. One of those telescopic magnetic tools might help get it out. The only way you will be certain it's not inside will be to split the cases!

If you lay the bike on its side you can take the cover off without draining the oil. However, it is likely you have damaged the kickstart gears so you would be wanting to replace the oil anyway to get rid of any metal fragments.. A clutch holding tool can be used to hold the clutch whist you undo the centre nut, if you don't have a impact wrench. Whist it's open would be worth checking the clutch plates and the water pump impeller. Just hope any bits of metal flying around inside the cases haven't done any significant damage.

From what you say it looks as if your starting point will be a used outfit of some sort. Given the scarcity of these I think you will have to go with whatever you can find. Waiting for TY175 outfit will be a long wait, I fear! You could use the sidecar bike as a solo but would have to undo the changes made for the outfit. (Stiffer springs rear and possibly front, and maybe even a swing arm extension). You may find this a bit of a faff. On balance, I would go for whatever outfit you can find in your price range that takes your fancy, and a TY175 as your solo.

Can you post or send me pictures?

Can you post a video so we can here it? May just be the usual sound of a 4 stoke. Other people are commenting on the bike's quietness so seems unlikely there is anything particularly unusual about the "tappety noise". Could just check that the cam chain tensioner is correctly adjusted.

Have a look at the manual for the decompresser details. (It works by keeping one of the valves open until the engine fires) It has a fine spring that holds it in the correct position for starting. TDC on the compression stroke has both valves fully closed and, consequently, there is a gap in the tappets. TDC on the exhaust stroke has the exhaust valves open (depressed). You should be able to see the valves opening and closing as you rotate the crank. Use the flywheel nut to turn the engine. Make sure you turn it in the correct direction to bring it up to TDC.

Hi It's quite a squeeze to get to the valve adjusters and get a good measurement with a feeler gauge, did you drop the engine forward to gain access? There is a bolt at the front of the engine that engages with a recess in the crank at TDC. Did you use this to get to TDC to set the tappets? I agree rechecking may well resolve the matter. In addition the engine has an automatic decompresser that works on the valves. Has this been disturbed inadvertently? Stuart

Hi The brakes on my 4T are OK, and have never given any trouble. They are prone to binding if the pads are worn. Once the pistons get pushed out to far to compensate for the worn pads they tend not to return properly. I think they get slightly twisted in their bores. New pads sort it though. The rear is not a floating disc so check it is centralised in the calliper, so that both pistons move the same distance in use. I had to shave a bit off the wheel bearing space to achieve this, but it is definitely better for doing so. Stuart

Great pictures!

Hi I have a Beta 4T 300 and I'm very much a novice rider. The original Beta throttle was s very fast action, which made the bike a bit of a handful. I found the Domino slow throttle to be to slow (you had to twist it too far for comfort). A Domino fast throttle did the trick for me. Bike is easy to ride, grippy and sounds great. Stuart

Hi I made bolt on mounting plates for mine so that I didn't mess up the frame and it could be easily put back to a solo. Can you get something on the bracing by the headstock? Stuart

Hi I got my chair on ebay. They come up from time to time so setting up a search can help. Like you, I used an old bike I had at the back of the shed. With hindsight it would have been easier to buy a used outfit, but there is a certain satisfaction in finishing a project. Don't forget you will need heavier rear springs, and I added some additional pre-load on the front end. I had trouble finding the required tube. The issue was buying a small quantity. Plenty of places to buy 10m lengths! I have a 17" Honda moped wheel with a 17mm shaft if you want it. Good luck Stuart

Hi I have never had a problem with my 4T carb and so have never had to remove it. I have a plastic cover on the airbox which stops a lot of crud from getting into the filter. Also have an in-line fuel filter. I clean the air filter after each trial and inspect the airbox for water. It can be drained at the bottom if needed. After washing I drain the float bowl, via the drain screw, just to ensure no water droplets get sucked into the carb. Wouldn't let the possibility of carb removal stop you from buying a 4T. Had a 125 Rev3 with a Delorto carb before and was forever having to clean that. Stuart

Its new, take it back to the supplier and insist they put it right. Definitely a fault, my 4T doesn't leak. As rotors7 says most likely the float value. May well be just some dirt, but a bit of a pig to get the carb off so let the supplier sort it out.

Hi I have a couple of KTM shims which I think are the right size. If you PM me I will send you them. Stuart

Hi You may find that, with the bash plate attached, you can't correctly align the bolts at the top of the frame sides. If so detach front of bash plate and reattach once the frame sides are in place. You may find you need to apply some upwards force to the plate to get the bolts to align correctly. Good luck!