stu109

I'd already figured out about taking the tyres off! Thanks for the comprehensive instructions I will get the carb out when I next have an hour or so to spare. Will probably do the work next time I re-grease the linkage bearings as the rear wheel and shock are out at the time.

Thanks for the info. Might I be able to rotate the carb sufficiently to allow the old screw out and the new one in?

I find the fabric gloves tend to wear through on the fingers. Used my gardening gloves on my last trial. https://www.dickiesstore.co.uk/product/GL0400-dickies-performance-gloves?fo_c=1112&fo_k=2f3195ed40fa0c69c5a620f1d492bc68&fo_s=gplauk&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9f7v-ai82QIVT7XtCh0ChwSYEAQYAiABEgK_GfD_BwE#{"col"%3A"tan"} These have a leather palm and fingers which is surprisingly supple so don't feel awkward. Waterproof which keeps your fingers nice and warm on a cold wet day. On problem is the rather strange mustard colour.

I have managed to source a Jitsie mixture screw for my Evo 3004T. Does anyone have experience of fitting these? The parts diagram shows a spring and an o-ring on the screw. Are these likely to come out with the screw? My plan is to fully tighten the existing screw to note the current setting and then put in the Jitsie item. Ideally I would like to do this without removing the carb. Any suggestions would be welcome.

Hi My 2013 4T has the standard throttle, which I found to be to fast for my liking. Under a quarter of a turn from nothing to max revs. I tried a Domino slow action but this was to slow and required more than 180 degrees of the grip to get to full throttle. The slow action item was not adjustable for cable length like the original, and to get it to work I has to use the other cable hole on the carb. You'll see what I mean if you look at where the cable attaches to the carb. As a better compromise I adjusted the stock item. I trimmed off some of the plastic on the throttle tube. If you take the throttle grip apart you will see that the throttle cable runs on a raised piece of plastic on the tube. By reducing the diameter of this, the cable winds more slowly as the grip is turned, and so the throttle speed is reduced. I cut it down to produce a gentle curve for the cable to run on. I got it to about 110 degrees of turn for full throttle, which suits me. I now have a spare, used once, Domino slow throttle if you would like it.

Had a go yesterday at cleaning and re-greasing the various linkage bearings on my Evo 4T. Overall not quite as tricky as I thought. Does seem to be designed though so that none of the bolts can be easily removed as each is baulked by the shock or the swing arm. In the end took off one of the foot rests to get things started. There was very little play when I started (which I took to be a good sign) and it was even better when finished. Cleaned out the bearings with a tooth brush and brake cleaner, which seemed to work well. Re-greased with waterproof grease which I got from a marine chandler. The "top hat" bushes looked to be in good order. The lowest sitting bearings in the dog bones where much dirtier that the others. There presumably get the most dirt when riding. Think I will look to replace all the bearings next time round. Didn't do anything with the bearings at each end of the shock. Couldn't see exactly how these came apart and didn't want to damage them. Do the bushes on these just pull out?

Happy to report everything now OK.

Thanks for all your replies. Have had a good look at it and conclude: Chain a little bit loose - have adjusted in line with manual. Front sprocket OK. Some wear from rubbing on the split link so have turned it around so clip is on the inside. Could replicate the noise by depressing the tensioner so the chain went a little slack. This caused the underside of the chain to "clack" on the frame. There is only just enough room for the chain to pass between the frame and the underside of the swinging arm. There was evidence of rubbing in this area. May look to put some plastic protection on the frame here. Will take it for a test ride and see if the problem is solved.

With clutch lever pulled in noise seemed to disappear. I do regularly clean and lube the chain but it is quite slack, although the adjuster does take up all the free play. Did consider the chain and wheels as the frequency of the noise seemed more in tune with wheel rotation rather that the engine. Will tighten the chain a notch or two and see if this makes any difference.

Out today on my 2013 Evo 4T and noticed a strange noise. Sounded like a chain slapping on metal. Only occurred in the higher gears, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd all normal. Regular "clack clack clack" about twice a second. Seemed to get a litter quicker with speed and stopped with the clutch engaged. Anyone got any ideas?

Hi Have you tried contacting Joël Corroy? He has helped me out with questions on my 323. www.trail70.fr

Got the springs off (I use a loop of picture wire) but could not get the pipe off. May try warming it all up by running the engine. If that does not work will remove the manifold. Only looking to clean and paint it so won't rush on the manifold as it looked as if the rad needed moving to get at the bolts.

Changed the oil today, and the spark plug. Oil looked good and clean and nothing untoward in the filters. Looking to change the coolant. Is it best to pull off one of the hoses or is there a drain plug? Would like to take the exhaust header pipe off to give it a clean up. Manual suggests it is held on by to springs to the manifold, Could shift it though. Anyone got any suggestions for detaching the pipe from the manifold?

Looking at the jet table in the manual the richer "competition" settings for the 300 are 120, 27.6 and 60. The only variance from factory jets is the slow jet that goes from 17. to 27.5. The 127.5 looks to be the competition main jet for the 250. May look at my jets and needle setting at some time but not rushing to take the carb to bits as it runs so well at the moment. Has a look under the rear mudguard yesterday. (Mud guard seems poorly named as did not prevent me getting splattered in mud when riding). Air filter was full of debris and there was a small amount of muddy water in the bottom of the air box. Do the clear plastic filter covers work? I see it the manual it suggests replacing the piston (although not the rings) and the water pump shaft and seal at 80 hours. What do you make of this?

Yesterday took delivery of a 2013 3004T and took it for its first trial today. The event was a real mudfest as it had been raining all night, bu what a ride from the bike. Took me a little while to get the feel of it but the grip was fantastic and you just fly up muddy climbs. Managed to complete sections that I would have had no chance on on my 125 Rev 3. I procrastinated a good deal about getting a different bike. Kept telling myself its not the bike its the rider. But I am so glad now I made the change. Did contemplate the Montesa 4RT but could not find a good one at a reasonable price. Heard good things about the Beta on this forum so decided to give that a go. Couple of technical things that perhaps some other riders might be able to advise on: The fuel tap has two positions according to the operating manual, one for normal running, and one for starting/filling the carb after have fall. Have used both of these, but is tap straight down anything, a reserve perhaps? On over run I get a "phut phut" from the exhaust, is that normal? Thanks

Hi Thanks for all your suggestions. I have tried the WD 40 spay but nothing. Eventually I bought a new, bigger, pilot jet. Went from a S42 to S44. I don't think the mixture was lean but hoped that a bigger jet might be less prone to blocking. Recleaned the carb, fitted the new jet and have just managed to get round a trial with no issues. Not sure if there is/was something kicking around inside the card or if I was getting a new blockage each ride. Airbox looked clean inside after the trial and I have already cleaned out the tank, the tap filter and fitted a new in-line filter so difficult to see that it was getting freshly dirty each time out. Will continue to clean carb airbox and filter after each ride and just hope it continues to run OK. Interestingly, even though I adjusted the mixture screw to take account of the bigger jet I did feel I had a bit more zip than before when picking up from low revs, but this might just be wishful thinking. Stuart

Hi, thanks for the replies. It is running a Dellorto VHST26. I have repacked the exhaust rear section and cleaned out the mid section,

Hi I have a 2005 Rev3 125. It has all the symptoms of running lean, difficult to start, fast idle, hunting, and poor pick up on the throttle. (It has run fine previously.) I have cleaned the carb to within an inch of its life including an ultrasonic clean, replaced the crank seals, the air filter, the plug, the hose between the carb and the air box, and checked the gaskets and inlet rubber, all to little effect. It does seem to be marginally worse when the engine is hot. Any thoughts on what else I could try?