copemech

I think there are many 200lb riders that do just fine on stock springs, however the rear one is typically the first one to change if desired. If you were at #220 I would say go for it for sure. The Ohlins shock is a good upgrade as well for most. All it takes is money!

Wait and watch for the finger! https://youtu.be/5SZfznYgToc

You should be ashamed of yourself. Ill report pilfering!

What is so funny here? That is sad!

My twin Ossa! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v332/PWA/yankee_1.jpg

Yea, maybe you pour in more oil it will help the worn out rings seal! Try the 30:1 ratio!

I have no big issue with the sealed bearings. Mine lasted five years in my 07 bike before I sold it in 12. We are talking Sherco here, and I find it keen that Beta has gone that direction as well. Sherco do have many reports of failures for which I believe there is a simple explanation. The alcohol in the fuel deteriorates both the crank seals and the bearing seals!!!!!!!!!!! When the crank seals go, the engine vacume pulses will blow through the lighter bearing seals wiich are only designed to hold grease in and keep dirt out. It then washes out the bearing. No Lube! Possible dirt! On the Sherco, a Viton crank seal is available, not sure about the Beta if the OD is the same? This should add insurance to the wash out effect of bad seals. Of course, if we could just get good fuel without the corn added, we would be in better shape, but that is not allways practicle.

That is the same as the Sherco factory bearing which is sealed. Perhaps Beta has seen fit to change as well.

Semi synthetic oils have and do work fine in a trials application as long as the quality is good. The ratios do not change from full synthetic and 80:1 is fine. The bikes are not highly stressed and unless one is road riding at high sustained speed and revs I would not increase the ratio of either as the performance is comparable in all but the most highly stressed conditions and temps.. which you are unlikely to achieve on a trials bike.

Careful with that penny trick as you may still damage a gear by tweaking it and the thing will create a knock sound when running. A proper impact windy gun will quickly remove and reinstall the big nut, but you must scribe the torque location in advance and put it back the same or ever so slightly beyond. This is really sensitive on a big impact and requires caution. Do not do this at home, as the saying goes. Hope you got it all going!

Right hand thread. I would suggest to get a clutch basket holding too from splatshop as you need to torque them both back properly. You may also require a small puller to pop the primary drive gear off the crankshaft. Do NOT pry on the engine cases.!!!

Honestly, I do not use enough in the trials application to justify a gallon or 5L just for that purpose. I brought a jug home ten years ago and half is still there! I am now wondering if it is safe to use? A trials bike prolly takes a pint to fill, and when you take that in half with the water mix it is not much. The corrosion inhibitors in the stuff is what wears out over time, but does is decay in its original package? I am no chemist and have never heard about this issue but all coolants are life limited when in use.

Whatever you choose will work from any reputable brand, the key thing would be DO NOT MIX DIFFERENT TYPES as many do not play well together and may gel up!. Use of distilled water to mix if you mix your own is best. Flush out the old with clean water and start fresh to avoid problems.

I know what flites are, that is funny! I was in dart league for a number of years. Cost me a small fortune in beer, lost wages from missed work, and a trip to jail for driving home at 3 AM. Dart board is in my shed today!

It is possible you are running low on fuel as the hanging revs will happen. If fuel tank is full, they should pretty mush gravity flow, even without a pump. The pumps are simple and only require engine vacume pulses to operate. There is a screen on the petcock that may be blocked. OR the vent line to the tank may be clogged with dirt. There is a one way ck valve in that line that needs to be clean and functional as well, or the tank will fall into a vacume with the pump trying to suck out fuel! Loostening the filler bung while the thing is running poorly may instantly relieve that condition. All worth a look.

Bike looks real good! Who's was that? The K2 works well at 80:1 although the gear oil may be a bit thick, gotta see how the clutch likes it. Many use ATF. If you do have a stator issue, just send it to Motoplat UK. Only takes a few days each way. You know your Beta dealer is in Midlothian, right? Later,

Oh, and get the Viton seal from Splatshop so you do not have to do this again.

In other words, you have your hands on the wrong shaft there matey! The crankshaft seal is under thet little gear up front! That is the transmission mainshaft(input) you are on. Drain the coolant and remove the entire cover to access. Smirk

The flywheel weight does the trick!

Photos please!

Put 15 kilos on your back and wd-40 on the brakes and that will git an idea.

Stick the Beta carb on it to see if it changes.

Sherco do sell frames.

No, the damned ethanol effects seals.

Buy a friggin pogo stick, then progress from there.