copemech

Loverly bike, the 250!!!!!

Good solid ,old and cheap do not usually factor in the same equation. Those bikes are getting too old now. Not sure just how long you can get parts, specially a Gasser, since they are bankrupt! The 2001 or newer Montesa, yea, solid bike, yet trials bikes are more fragile than your XR by design.

You may contact Splatshop to see if they can fix those, but I believe an Ohlins is the only practical alternate.

Add make sure the rear spring is set properly. They do sag over time.

Das ist lustig mein Schatz!

The older muffs are not designed to be re-packed, so the best preventive maintenance is to not let them get too gunked up to begin with. One thing you may want to do would be after riding a bit and insuring the fan is working, get the thing up to normal operating temps and then do 2-3 good hard drag races through the gears down a long trail or road. This gets a lot of heat under load into the muff. Wait a minute, then repeat! It may start smoking profusely as the gunk is blowing and burning out! Wait and repeat until smoking subsides! Getting a bit of real heat into the plug as well will help preserve them, although they are cheap and disposable. Replace at first signs of hard starting. Gap at 0.5-0.6mm Putting about all day is not good on this stuff. They need a bit of a run on most every ride. Use good full or semi synthetic oil. 80:1 is more than enough for most everyone unless you are planning a road trip.

http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-diode-comex-new-fan.html Try 70-80:1 on the oil mix.

I do knot no! But I like that bike!

I believe 125 cases are different from the larger bikes(except 200), just find new ali cases now and save yourself! All years Pro motor should work I would think.. Check for frame cracking as well, which may have caused this.

First class operation, they do great work!

Find a local welder with TIG. Best to grind off the chrome in the area. Tell him it is 4130 material. Nothing too special here. Prolly a tenner to fix. Silver paint toutch up. The clutches often stick solid after sitting due to oil stiction. Find neutral by rocking as stated . All the way down then one click up. Freeing up a stuck clutch prior to starting is ALLWAYS best!!! To do this place your butt(weight) on the bike and rock the bike as in before, clicking up to 5th gear with hand. Pull in clutch and rock the bike heavily fore and aft until you feel the clutches break loose and allow the bike to roll, then roll it a bit. Go back to neutral, start motor. Still be carefull and pointed in good direction prior to placing into gear. This is an ALLWAYS procedure! Trust me!

Nice! Very nice indeed! Now all you that want high tech, pony-up! This is the stuff right here! Get some!

The castor oils smell good and all, but tend to gum up badly in the exhaust of a trials bike. Not enough heat in a low stress motor application. Really hard to clean out too, I will add.

Good job! Now be sure to re-torque the clutch basket nut properly!

Historically, the Scorpa had a very tight steering lock and was a sharp turner on the old SY models. I have not had a go on the newer ones but the frame design seems to indicate that trait was retained. The Shercos never had this trait, and some disliked the fact. I wonder if that has changed with the new frame?

Gonne mak um in Chiner!

I see differences in the frame and tank from the Scorpa pics. Beautiful bike, and being the luddite I will take the conventional fuel tank placement any day.

Squat! No weight on hands! STOP IT! Practice for a while exaggerating things! Stay centered on the bike. Use peg pressure to turn and let arms follow! If your inside arm is straight in turns you are less likely to dab.

No up/ down is all that matters really! The rest will move.

Amazing how much force is applied when things come to a screeching halt! You are lucky you know. I have seen much worse damage done. .

Which brings me to the question of just how many languages can you handle? Obviously your English is very good. Makes me wonder how Biff's German is. I understand he now has a Coach that can kick his butt!

What do you mean "knock from the motor"? It is a gasser, they all knock! Just ride it till it blows up. Everyone else does!

Welcome, now go see the Yamaha thread!

It is simple enough. As the rear spring settles in, try to keep the static sag(weight of bike on wheels) at around 20mm. There should be some float there. Damping adjustments will vary depending upon rider pref. Usually quicker rebound for more aggressive riders and hoppers. A bit slower for best grip and muddy conditions. At that weight you may border upon wanting a heavier rear spring if you ride hard. Tune front and rear rebound to work together. Find your happy place a few clicks at a time.

Unfortunately, I do not understand it, but it seems nice enough. Exactly what is the language? I get the feeling it is a mix of French and German, sort of, but what do I know, nothing!