copemech

Jesus, you are getting bitchey are you not? Old age probably! There are several ways to skin this cat, yet my preferred method would be to block the overflow and drill out the left side vent casting. Then you can pretty much run it like a dellorto, unless you are laying it all the way over on the bar, then turn the fuel pipe off or it could flood. This way will not p*** out with normal josseling. I have gone soo far as extracting the bloody tube from the bowl which makes them a pain to assemble and driving in a sealing ball bearing of correct size. All this is secret stuff, do not tell!

Seals MUST be compatable with the fluid-period! Call them if unsure what is in it! Or change seals in the slave to match.

Quite normal. Those tubes may be blocked off if you desire. However you still ned to cut the fuel when transporting, or the excess sloshing may then flood the motor!

Go to a tire shop and lube it up good with some REAL tire lube, then air it up high to sit overnight and try it!

Oh my! Stunning! Let me see if I still have some real carbon fibre swingarm guards for you!

I cannot tell you just how this stuff works together, bit logic seems to dictate that the CDI would be the controller of advance as the trigger unit(s) are fixed. I think a bad trigger unit could cause this as well though, as things get erratic. I do not recall a lot of timing swing ability with the single pickups, though. Normal timing would be around 2.5mm BTDC, just like points. Not sure just how that relates to degrees on that, but close. Excess initial setting would cause kickback on starting and easy stalling I would think.

I call this "tax on the stupid" but it is soo rewarding!

Hummmm, never heard that one in the last 15 or so years. Although break in metal is not uncommon, you may have been unlucky in picking up a piece when reinstalling the bolt. As long as the bolt is starting normally, you should be able to clean out the threads by gently running a tap through by hand and flushing things out with a tube on a spray can like wd40. May even run a small pick or something down the hole to feel for the culprit and break it loose. As the hole is deep, you may need to obtain a long tap off ebay of something, or weld an extension on a standard one. Who is your dealer? He may be able to assist in this.

I just do not know how you will tie Pips down with the bike in there!

Adjust to suit your taste. Dropping the front(raising tube in the clamp) gives a bit quicker steering.

I would not buy my kid one! These things scare me! To be honest, I do not really have the proper area locally to run one hard. And I am not going curb hopping if I can help it! A roll-on in 3rd or 4th gear is pretty quick, though! Just a good hot rod! I think of them as a hot rod, but the Viper at 600 or whatever HP is more a race(track ) car, low and stable although stiff and cramped, not comfortable as a daily driver. Challenger is a great car, but the stock Hemi is plenty! And even the 300 or so HP V6 is a sweet car.

Normal preferred mix (airscrew) setting on a Kiehin is .5-1.5 range. 2T or 4T makes no difference. Adjust for best running. If outside that range, a change in low speed jet may be used.

Joke of the day, me with the phone cam! I just cana get thing right, anyway! Bloody ugly new car in the shop today! I'm sure I will have to test when finished! At least they are more comfortable than the $100k Viper sitting next to it! 707HP is fun, though!

Something like 272cc vs 305cc. The larger motor has arm wrenching torque, but smooth on the bottom. More a tuning thing than anything, no replacement for displacement!

Not sure any help here. On my 12 bike with standard shock, adjuster screw is on top and pointed toward the right rear of the bike. Removal of the splash guard between the muff and tank(one screw) allows access to the adjuster via a long screwdriver. The screw defiantly effects rebound damping speed but may effect compression as well, not sure. Hope that helps.

Owning a bike and riding it long term does require normal maintenance. Over and above that, I do not consider myself willing to trade off weight for ultimate performance, nor feel the need to flip bikes every year for the new model. The more conventional bike does have its own solitude. Sherco, Beta and Mont! Proven performance and not over the edge! I really like the looks of the Scorpa as well, I could do that! I may work on stuff for a living, but the last thing I want to spent my quality time on is fixing or figuring out issues with broken bits of my bike! Thus, I will take the middle road still.

My peddles beat the hell out of me, till the point I learnt to lay the bike down to stop and avoid solid objects!

Takes me a while to get my hand cranked generator going long enough to power up the windows 95 powered machine, but if anyone knows just how to test a bike for performance his initials would be DL. I think the bikes look luverly, even if the basic motor does look as though it shares a Gasgas history, I hope they worked a few kinks out of it. I often hope things work out, yet I have often been disappointed in terms of long term reliability. Seems only time will tell!

Call Lewisport

At some point in there they moved the rear caliper inside the swingarm as well.

Awesome ride! I think the endure bike guys will have a hard time in that!

It appears this can be set in 3 different positions in order to set the finger height of the clutch pack for different lever ratio. End result the same as adjusting the pack thickness. cool idea

Not the same arm, but it may work, nothing to go on here as I doubt it has been tried.

Kickback and backfire are not isolated to Shercos. Ignition timing is set in advance of TDC and a light prod may kick the piston back down! If ignition is advanced to an optimized position for power, which many factory settings are, you are then closer to opening the exhaust port while the fuel is still exploding and sending the flame into the exhaust which may well still contain unburnt fuel vapors from the last shutdown(when you stopped the flame with the motor turning). This can create quite a bang! (backfire in exhaust, not intake!) A slight retard from factory timing of about 3mm on the stator plate will indeed reduce likelihood of kickback with minimal change in performance for the average bloke. This also reduces stalling tendencies at low revs. I find it a preferred setting. Do not lightly kick the bike with the bars turned to the right! It will drive your friggin knee right into the bars and hurt like hell!!! Ham2 don't know just how to measure this stuff, and Zipper just does it for fun!

That is some sick s%it man!