copemech

Describe "leak" ! Are you talking residue, seep, leak or drip?

Heat! Use a hair drier and get a sharp edge plastic thing to push with to save finger nails! Any solvent should take care of any remaining adhesive.

No idea what this mod is about, although I do know the internals are different, did not realize it would require changes in the body. Have not heard of modding one, all else just bought the new carb.

What he said, plus. You can run the carbs with the overflow blocked off. You still need to insure it is clean and set properly. There are setup details on Splat website. I also drill out my left side bowl vent. Erratic and floaty idle could be a sign of crank seals leaking air. I give them 2-3 years on average, and yours is approaching that mark. Viton seals a must.

From the results, looks like the Scottish champ needs one too!

When did this problem start? Again-Can you hear and feel the throttle slide hitting the bottom stop when snapped closed? You gotta have a heluva air leak to do that much revving.

Ride up a gear or two in practice. It will force you to learn the clutch.

What do you mean taken plug cap off? Gou gotta remove plug and set in the head bolt for earth to see anything. You could have sheared a flywheel key, they will spark, but not run after shut off. Checking the basics ofter takes care of things before jumping to conclusions.

Second that, choke on do the deal no throttle and take it to TDC then a good but not to hard prod. They have a decompressor built in to allow a softer but solid prod at it.

Spark is difficult to see in daylight. Start with basics, replace the spark plug! Ck other things as mentioned.

Lucky you if it not rattling too much!

Jesus man, that don't look like coolant entry to me. Cannot tellall from the pics. but gear oil is normally metalized if it has not been changed, Coolant quantiy, well you had over 300ml, cannot recall how much they hold but not a lot more than that. The black in the motor is like grinding paste, which suggests you may have been hosing the bike without blocking the airbox, which will wash all sorts of muck throuth the filter and into the box which sloshes its way into the motor and grinds it to bits! Also leaving a flat finish on the piston fron the abrasion. What is in the bottom of your airbox? Have you checked or changed any of thi fluids since you have had it or did you just ride it till it quit?

When you get good enough to do a flick turn in a section without dabbing, let us know!

No, but that bike gives me wood!

Yep, a ten grand Honda is a hard pill to swallow!, but others new are in 7500 range, still a lot. The Gasgas pro is a pretty smooth ride in the 250 version. Although I would not consider them the lowest maintenance bike, if I was looking in that price range I would certainly consider one in good condition. But for that price it would have to be like new. 3K would be more like it for a good one of that year. Lweisport may have other options, and as fun as a 125 is to ride, in reality they lack torque in a 2 stroke motor, so are much more of a rev and go thing, but they will perform. Trials is a skill thing, but a good bike from this decade with decent(not overwhelming) power, good clutch and controls and brakes will get you a long way. Like Ryan says, everything needs to work perfect! Old bike or new.

Everything changed in 2010

Depends upon where it is broken. Do you need to weld an engine mount? Disconnecting the magneto harness would be a good precaution.

Note the orientation of the seals as they oppose each other. Lube shaft with silecon grease. Trip to the powerwash is due!

As I recall the SS was done here by the importer with added flywheel weight. I am sure it is indeed smooth, but with more torque, so if your arm sockets are up to it, would be a fine bike, if more aggressive than the 250.

pg 5

Usually the seal on the gas cap, never seen a tank leak up there. Most seem to ruin the stickers in a year anyway just spilling fuel when filling the tank! The tanks are some NYLON material and not normally subject to vapor permeability of some plastics, although they may expand with the use of alcohol in the gas as in many areas, making them hard to fit into the frame.

The source circuit from the mag also powers the lights, and if you have the stock lighting harness still installed then the wireing runs to all that as well and ANY potential short to earth could take the voltage down. I have allways run the lighting harness removed and used the jumper harness available from splatshop and others for a fiver. That eliminates a lot of crap! And takes you back to the basic circuit as in the gasgas graphic.

I would have thought they made more on the backside selling parts for the things as opposed to the sales! Someone has been pocketing that all along it seems!