copemech

Cannot think of why not! There may also be some Jitsie stuff out there, ch Splatshop website.

Many do away with the map switch as most folks of normal ability cannot tell the difference anyway!

As an add to this, the vent hose is best run uphill over the carb inlet and set between the fuel hose inlet and the carb, then down behind the carb to the skidplate rear area.

If normal running was found all day, makes me think it is not an electrical issue.

Also insure the fuel line FROM TANK TO CARB IS NOT ROUTED AGAINST THE MUFFLER! This heats the fuel in the line and added to the heat radiation from the exhaust can cause the fuel in the carb bowl to boil. The line should come out of the tank and go forward toward the clutch line on the left of the intake then loop back wards towards the carb inlet staying away from muff. I have seen this area insulated on back of muff as well.

Beyond about four turns adjustment is near futile it seems to me, and I do not like going THAT far. Your spring will lose tension and screw will fall out! Take the screw out and look at the actual needle taper on the end of it. What is it, 3mm long possibly? That is your range of effective adjustment. Beyond that it is doing nothing. And quite frankly, if I am running that far out for decent running, I will go up a bit on the pilot jet to bring things a bit more in range. With todays fuel, a 36 may not suffice, I run a 38 in mine.

IN PULSES he says! Is it not amazing just how them things will hit you with a puff of air randomly and several feet away! I just wish it all smelled like castor oil, gives me wood! And I love the smell of napalm in the morning.

Tire is 5 knobs wide. You may use momentum through a slick off camber, but you cannot accelerate until you square up and get at least 3 in good contact with the ground.

Great place to ride, great weekend, scenery is great as well. No dry grippy rocks there! You must ride! Ray may go, he often does, besides it is possible to fly out and rent a bike. I often like the getaway.

Most reports on them point to the stators, goog luck!

Soo sweet!

http://youtu.be/TrsbXPNYOqM?list=PLEE752838D84EA8A3

Place your hand on thar "red hot" clutch cover. Does it burn you? NO, go figure!

I consider this normal on 125 as it is slightly over carbed.

I do not disagree with some of the points you have suggested, however I am opposite and like them smoother/ less rippy off the bottom. To each his own. I tune for best smooth running. Fact is, I have come to prefer the dellorto over the kiehin for my application, given its lackings. I personally think the kiehin is a pain in the ass that I do not need the added power or grief.

I was allways told the preferred airscrew settings on the Kiehin were between .5 and 1.5 turns out. As most of us are in the cooler time of year(higher air density), the .5 seting is not out of the question in my book if it runs fine, however you may experiment with the larger pilot jet.

Just be glad you do not have a 250 with dellorto and the rubber reducer ring.

ALLWAYS perform a "plunk" test to hear the slide hit the stop after performing any maintenance and prior to starting motor.

A Caby of that year would have the Kiehin carby which is higher performance, possibly high comp cyl head, cannot recall? You may be able to get a heavy rear spring from Splatshop, front should be ok as is. You can use the slow throttle and set the ignition timing back a bit to settle things if needed. Inspect/ grease rear suspention linkage for sure.

Nice ride, now imagine clearing that route for a proper trial so they do not put an eye out with the brush! Did I say eye protection mandatory!

I believe they tend to be a bit rattly, however I have to listen first hand to evaluate. Rings will not totally refresh one, requires a piston and a replate of the cyl in most cases. Then they are pretty quiet till they wear in a bit with use..

Had one the same and tried fileing down the gear and using a new small gear, it still knocked, apparently distorted the tooth enough to do so, although could not really see it. If you pop the small gear off, the seal pops out easy with a little lever, I use a small dent popping slide tool to break the gear loose off the shaft, don't take much, but often more than prying against the case will get you, as you will damage case. Let us know how you get on.

Actually those systems, although basic, will likely tolerate a bit of moisture and trash without too much issue. Try all that on some of the stuff I work on due to contamination and neglect on a HPCR turbo diesel will quickly get you a $ 12-15,000 repair bill for a system cleaning and fresh injectors! Man I like that! I call it "tax on the stupid!"

You get the idear, and I will add a Kiehin is kinda like an AR 15, works really well, requires a bit more fiddling and maintenance.

I presume you paid accordingly when you bought the bike? Nothing lost then, fix it correctly, and throw in some Viton crank seals from splatshop while you are there! Still cheaper than a complete teardown and rebuild with bearings and rod kit!