copemech

I understand from reputable sources that Beta has developed and decided upon building its own engine for a 4T that is coming out in 06! Supposidly there is a Gasser in the works as well!

I happen to own both a 1.25(wife''''s) and a 2.9 and many times find myself wanting to ride the 1.25 in club events as it IS fun to ride and it seems to do better if it is a muddy day. I also believe that the 1.25 makes you ride "smarter" because there is not the excess power to rely on and you must think ahead and ride smarter but it is less fatigueing to ride. Although my 2.9 is "tuned down" a bit with slower timing, I still prefer it for the "big" sections because of the torque! I just wish that Sherco made a "true" 200cc bike, as every time that I have ridden a 2.0, it just seems like a 1.25 with only a bit more power, and little more, and does not have the flywheel to carry you over big stuff either. That is just my opinion for what it is worth, just wish I could get the wife to ride a 2.0 so I could borrow it! Cheers,

We Americans just love that British sense of humor. I just wish Stu's wife would catch him in the act of shagging the Beta and post a pic ! Would make for a good chuckle! I'm going back to the Sherco forum now!

Ray Peters, at 31 I believe, is the current veteran in the PRO class here in the states(if he rides PRO this year), although Geoff may be close to the same age. I recall Ray saying several years ago that he was getting tired of "throwing his body" at the large obsticles and that would probably be his downwall in the end at making attempts at the US championship. I agree with Ish that more points could be had without increasing the size of the obsticles Ray was referring to and would promote more riders attempting the route. Just my opinion!

Where did the blue bars come from Nige, Renthal?

Nige's fender sticker!

JT's fender sticker!

ps- The V-Force reeds are supposed to be the hot set up for the big bikes, e-mail Dabber and see if he will buy a set to try on the 2.0. If they don't work you can save a few quid that way!

I have seen several of the top 125 Sherco riders that use the 2.9 header pipe which is larger diameter at the head. I think the 2.0 comes with the smaller pipe as well. I think to be truly effective you would need to match(enlarge) the exhaust port to flow well with the pipe. The 26mm carb is big enough(same as the 2.5 and 2.9) and jetting changes will not make it have more power neccessarily, just make it run properly. The 2.0 already has the light flywheel. also, Have someone ck your igniition timing with a timing light to ensure that it is set correctly. The factory does make mistakes! A change in reed valves may make a difference, but I do not know anyone that has done it on the 2.0. Cheers!

Thanks, I'll give him a call!

Thanks Ronnie, i tried to call friday but no answer?

It sounds kinda like you Charlie, it makes a squishing sound whenever it moves and it is full of hot air!

Anyone know someone here in the States that can overhaul my rear shock, it is a bit low on oil!

Replace the seals and install the neoprene (wetsuit material) covers on the fork tube to keep the dirt out that eats up the seals. RYP and others carry them. ps-they also help protect the tubes from scratches!

You Go Clark! I have never seen you talk so much trash, and to Billy T. to boot! What a hoot! And put your helmet on in your avitar or I'll kick your ass- LOL!

WOW!

Maybe Ringo has some new PHOTOS to share, you know, the clean ones!

The problem is not neccessarily the water, as small amounts of water will pass through the engine with no problem, it is the dirt and grit that washes through the filter WITH the water. As it is in a contained area it can sit for long periods of time without evaporating as well. It only takes a few sand particles to bind the throttle slide! This usually happens when starting/ riding the bike after washing just about the time you hit third gear and roll the throttle on jostleing around the muck that has accumulated in the bottom of the box. The throttle slide will then stick without warning at 1/2 or better opening! It will really get your attention as you are burning up those tiny brakes trying to stop that moving freight train enough to remove one hand from the bars and hit the kill button! I have done some testing using Ishy's method and it seems to work well, but as with anything else it is not foolproof. Water hoses and pressure washing may still allow small amounts to get in, so checking it after washing is still cheap insurance, or just pull it apart before washing. In addition to Ishy's mods, I have installed plastic screen mesh to the filter retainer. This keeps the big chunks of garbage out of the filter and actually seems to help divert some of the water droplets as well. As the filter is now only catching the dirt for which it was designed instead of twigs, leaves and grass, it reduces the neccessity to wash the element and prolongs its life. Most hardware stores will give you enough scrap household screen mesh (black of course) to do several bikes. Rough up the top surface of the retainer and cut a piece to fit and glue it on. I used 3M black weatherstrip adhesive, a thin covering is all it takes, but other products may work. At first glance it looks like it may be restrictive to the air inlet, but I can tell no difference in performance. Cheers

Sorry Alan, I forgot to put it here. Intake air connecting hose fits Continental (TCM) C-90, 0-200, 0-300 engines. Part #22800 Superior air parts P/N SA22800 Any small aircraft mechanic can get these for you! Or go to www.chiefaircraft.com or call them at 800-447-3408 Cost a couple of bucks each so shipping would probably be more than the part.

Going back to the '01 bike I seem to remember a frame sticker recomending Valvoline synthetic 5-30 or something like that. The point is that probably any good quality 5-30 or 10-30 motor oil will work fine, synthetic or not, just change it regularly. The ATF will have different frictional properties on the clutch, probably quicker engagement, but the lubrication properties are probably ok. There has been some discussion about ATF deteorating the clutch plates, but I cannot confirm this. Whats in your wallet?

If the feel is otherwise normal, no problem with the master/slave hydroulics, then remove the cover and inspect for weak springs, worn plates or other broken parts, it only takes a few minutes! Just lay the bike on it's side and remove the four screws! Then remove the six that hold the clutch plate and get a piece if wire or a hook tool and remove the plates!

Clark, This is definately a case of bigchuckpiss, it only works for short periods of time and should be drained shortly thereafter. Obviously you waited too long! Cheers, MC

Tommi, I have to admit, you ALMOST make me want to ride a Gas Gas! We are going to miss having you visit us here in Texas on a semi regular basis and giving us a few lessons!(We managed to get one dab out of him last weekend, in a two day event with some spectacular riding!) If you get a bit homesick, I will ship you a case of Lone Star Longnecks so you don't have to drink that Euro-beer! You are indeed a credit to the sport and a great fellow! We wish all the best to you and yours! M.C. N.T.T.A.

Nigel, did you get your intake tube then?

The Galfer pads are the fav here in the US!