andy198712

mine uses a soft fibre washer and its not leaking.... i did how ever snap the spring that hold the chain tentsioner in place, so will be ringing GGUK tomorro! they best for spares right?

here's where i look silly i think its now the 98 model, the forks have that screw off bit thats 3 inches with the holes in it for the C spanner, and the frame number has GG2798..... on it meaning 270, '98 i guess.... from reading older posts....

pretty sure mine doesnt have one lol, just above the kickstart, in the manual there is one the same as the drain plug, but on mine there is not..... there is a 5mm allen screw that looks like its holding something..... picture would be good as i've had a good ole look there. mine had a soft gasket on the sight bolt, not a copper one.... differant engine? the clucth cover route sounds a bit..... stressful if you round the bolts mind, what seals behind that? is a gasket or anything worth having a spare incase it goes? got a socket allen key in 6mm for another job and its a lovely tight fit, wasnt in tight at all, as your only sealing the oring so i just snugged it down also cheers

hello, got a '99 txt 270, where do i fill the trans oil? in the manual it says by the kick start there is a large allen filler cap like the drain one, but this wasnt there.... so removed the sight glass bolt and filled from there and let it drain then replaced.... using castol ATF D3 rated, it has red stuff i it alreay so guessing it was ATF cheers

is it magnetic?

make sure there's no pressure on the MC and the cap is off ect ect i had a mare of a time doing mine, one piston was stuck you see, split it once i'd un stuck it and rebuilt it. one thing i did, was put pressure on the lever and crack the banjo bolt on the MC just to get any air out from there, tighten and release lever. also, remove the resivoir tube and pinch it to stop all your fluid coming out on the floor (opps) then connect you syringe and tube here and open the bleed nipple and push your fluid in at the MC and out the nipple, worked for me and mine will now do skids!! and actually slow me down!! best remove pads when fiddling and place something in there to stop the pistons coming out,

i should add, remove current and REPLACE with a bit of pipe, clear is best so you can see anything in it ect ect

i'd go with just remove it, alot of people fit fancy caps to enduro tanks and 9 times outa 10 them break and cause problems

Hiya been a member a while but not had a bike till today got a '99 txt 270 and loving it its not bad for the age, plently of compression, needs a good jump to kick it over, only issue with it is the brakes the back was squeeking all the time unless i tapped the lever, and they're both pretty poor in power, i was exspecting quite sharp? more like my ktm. so i stripped the rear caliper, and removed one piston but couldnt get the other out, and it was only just moving, either way i popped it back on the bike and spent ages bleeding it after a loss in consentraition ment i sucked some air in. finally after cracking the MC banjo a couple times and bled it regular, as i couldnt push the fluid up, worked once but other times it wouldnt go, should i be depressing the lever? any way, after all that, the feel is ok now, not hard as i'd like, i removed the slack in the lever till i just had a tad........ and its worse then before! i can still move the bike with the brake fully on just about, tried dragging the brake it re bed it as i roughed it up a tad and still the same sadly. so tomorro i'll strip it down again and try and get that other piston out i guess.....the clean it up and hope for the best! any tips on this? i know its not the best place to post this but i couldnt do it in the tech section. Cheers Andy