diagnosis

Hi Konrad, I had a similar issue with my Ohtokc Ignition for my TY175. It had spark, and would run, and after getting the timing set, put everything back together thinking it was fine, then I couldn't get it started for the life of me. I thought the maybe the kill switch was faulty, maybe I didn't secure a wire, or pinched and shorted it, nothing made sense. Pulled it all back apart, and couldn't find anything abnormal initially..... I checked the solder points on the Ohtokc ignition coil, and both were cold joints, and the lower had separated completely. I'm not sure if this may be your issue, but I ended up desoldering them completely, and redoing the connections. It's been great ever since. Not saying this is your issue, but may want to double check the connections for the same problem. There was a lot of other fiddling I had to do with my Ohtokc to get it to fit right, and work properly. The price point is very tempting, but it definitely wasn't a straight forward install. Detail of where the cold joints were: Wiring diagram I was sent after purchasing the kit. Again, TY175 specific, not sure if it will help you:

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but was there any luck in finding a replacement strap for these boots? Mine unfortunately lost the battle today.

And another month or so later…. Exiting from a section at a trial last weekend; This build has turned out better than expected and am really happy with the results… so far!

I appreciate your concern, but have absolutely no intention to mass produce or profit off of the WES design. To be completely honest, after compiling materials and factoring in the time, it probably would have been cheaper to just buy a system….. I feel like this is something I’ve mumbled to myself quite a few times during this project.

I've recently borrowed a WES, 2 in 1 system from a friend to see how they were made, and the secrets they held. Turned out it seems relatively 'easy' to make (as long as you have $10k in fab equipment at the ready!) Going to fab up a short pipe and a new exhaust similar to the Wes, and really looking forward to the project. Cant wait to see how all the work pans out!

A couple of months later……

I've recently picked a second TY175 (technically third...) to beat around on in the upcoming vintage trial series. It's been a fun process, trying to keep the build on a 'budget', which is quickly turning into a money pit!. I'm still enjoying it, and can't wait to ride this season.

Sorry for the late reply. I think I found the parts catalogue, where I found that image, on the Beamish Owners club website. It’s a great resource. I think on the Silver engine 74/75 exacta, it’s on the inside unfortunately. I may tackle this over the winter, as the fall has been way too nice to put them away yet! edit: link to the main parts page; https://www.beamishownersclub.com/parts-books Link directly to the page I referenced; https://www.beamishownersclub.com/_files/ugd/3a48b1_b4c5488ed747422d9c1fa79664e83f34.pdf

Using the old sprocket was so close, but the sprocket hardware was rubbing on the drive side of the swingarm, on the tubing just in front of the drop out. Could be slight differences in the build, spacers, or hardware that caused the issue for me, and not on your RL.

I was planning on doing the seals as well on my RL250, thinking it’s the same as the Yamaha, but unfortunately splitting the cases seems to be the only solution. You can see the seal (#17) behind the bearing in the diagram below. (sorry about the poor image quality, the size limit was only 80kb 🤷)

Thanks for the heads up! I ended up using a 5mm (3/16”) spacer. I first tried cutting up the original sprocket to use as the spacer, but it was too wide, causing the hardware lock washers to rub on the frame. Other than that, the JT 809.54 rear sprocket fits well.

I’ve yet to contact them regarding the guard, but once the suspension is loaded while riding it, the rubbing doesn’t seem to be a problem, thanks for the heads up though! I made a skid plate for the RL today, and took it for a ride around the shop for the second time since I’ve owned it. It feels really nice, although longer than I initially remembered. Adjusting the bars back should solve that issue. There are still a few things on the to-do list, but I’m almost ready to hand the kill switch over to my Dad. - There is a carb leak, I’m guessing around the bowl gasket. I cut a new one out today, as the old one was cracked and no longer working either, but didn’t seem to solve the problem. I’m considering just grabbing an OKO kit from Midwest Atlantic Trials, as the one I bought for my TY175 works flawlessly so far, and is priced reasonably. - Seems like there is excessive smoke at startup until it’s fully warmed up, then it’s tolerable. I’m guessing crank seal? It’s fresh 90octane at 50-1 with synthetic oil mix. - Still want to paint and finish tank ‘properly’. It’s just been spraybombed with white Tremclad, and isn’t fuel resistant. I have decals being made, so once they arrive I’ll focus on that. - The kickstart lever is incredibly worn and flops like crazy. I tried building up the stops with weld, but that didn’t help at all. Are there any other Suzuki’s that shared this kickstart design that could be swapped over? Again, I appreciate all the feedback, and suggestions, this bike is a bit of a mystery to me, but seems to be coming together better than I expected. 🍻 Pics from today:

After fitting the longer Betor rear shocks, I've run into a small problem.... the chain rubs on the top of the swingarm pivot. I've put a rubber swingarm protector from a Yamaha TY175 in place, to act as a rub block, but was wondering if there are any other solutions, or a Suzuki specific part that solves this issue?

Good eye Lemur, it is in fact a TY250 alloy tank. I intend to make a tank for it at some point, maybe similar to a Sammy Miller style Yamaha, or the Holtworks RL250 version. Hopefully the gearing works out, as teamferret mentioned, I have installed 360mm Betor rear shocks as the originals were blown. This is the current state, as of this afternoon. I still plan on filling some dents in the tank, repainting, and adding a 2k clear, lengthening the kickstand, and replacing the rear brake cable, but otherwise, I’m pretty happy with it!

Hi Lemur, thanks for the reply! I was Googling around earlier and came across a post from the Trials Austrailia forum, regarding the rear sprocket, and the 75-77 RM125 shares the same pattern, which is a great starting point in finding another 'budget' rear sprocket. I haven't really ridden it myself other than around the parking lot after picking it up from the previous owner, so was intending to use the original 54/15 gearing just for something to replace the completely worn out stock sprockets and chain. I'm also slightly tempted to steepen the head angle by a few degrees, hopefully to improve the slow steering. It's a little nervewracking cutting into a perfectly good frame though! Edit: Ended up ordering a JT sprocket set, and new chain this afternoon. I went with a 54t rear (part no. JTR 809.54) and a 14t front (part no. JTF1559.14), mainly due to availability and budget. The kit cost just over $84 Canadian, which isn't bad, but will still have to make a 5mm spacer..... I'll let you know how it goes!