On a not so high high profile note I noticed when observing dougie at the st davids British champ many years ago that he lost his marks on the slippery cambers not the big stuff.
As c of c for the last few years of the st davids btc we have put some big stuff in for the crowds but we know the marks will be taken in the loose streams and mud that don't look mutch and the riders dislike but takes marks without killing people.
Not fashionable but proper sections.
Have faith and put on s proper British wtc I say.
Steering needed first on our neddy.
He can stop and go no problem just not necessarily in the direction or speed you had in mind?
On a serious note we are slipping very quickly into a total nanny state. If you want safety devices surely market forces should alllow you to buy what you want!!
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There are numerous posts on this if you have a search but consensus is as above for engine or similar and the elf htx oil or atf for gearbox .
typically every 6 weeks. Change engine oil filter every other oil change .
I find if you don't do the full stroke with the lever and look into the reservoir you can see air coming out of the piston cylinder inlet hole.
If you do that a few times resistance may come back as the cylinder is full of oil not air. If you do full strokes with air in in just goes down the pipe.
I have changed a hose at a trial and managed to bleed with this method.
You could try sucking on the end of the pipe attached to bleed nipple but make sure pipe is a clear one and long enough or you chips will be tasting of DOT 4 tonight!!
Maybe set your lever as horizontal as possible to get as much fluid in the reservoir to cover the hole.
I found early on with the 4rt to never shut the throttle fully - with the engine braking especially on the early bikes the front would get loaded up and then do its own thing.
I found this out on a flat slippery stream were the 4rt was going all directions and my old 315R would never have - being basically y the same chassis had to be engine related.
If you apply this theory to going across cambers etc - if you shut off fully then front has a higher chance of sliding compared to a 2T
Jr sunt has it spot on. Ride it on the over run and when it does grip make good use of it to get your speed so you have some in reserve to be able to back it if on the over run. If you watch slow mos of bou he is shutting off before he does anything - if what bou does is relevant to us mere humans. I have found that with the clutch out you can be quiet brutal with the throttle when you have grip in a straight line. Again use this to build up some grip credits for when you need to back off. I also found for deep mud 3 rd gear high ish revs but steady. Let the clutch slip but not burn the tyre. When you get a bit of momentum go throttle and clutch out then if needed let it grip on the over run. Jr's explanation explains why lower gears work on the monts.
Hi
you need to be working the clutch and brake to be successful in trials so practice this basic skill first as last. The old days of doing turns with the clutch engage are long gone.
i probably have my tick over way above the 1800 to avoid the odd cough and stall and have no issue on the tight stuff even with std gearing.
The early 4rts did benefit from bigger clutch master cyl.
A later model plate clutch plate yes just change one of them I recall to improve and also correct gearbox oil.
good luck
Just looking at the tech info for this and it is in fact a ATF oil but made for completion use - makes sense why it works well and also probably has good additives for wear reduction.
just check you are looking at the tea bag filter fixed to the pump.
I think it is dual spec with a much finer mesh on the inside of the filter.
I have found solvent and air line to work but you need to get the finer mesh clean more than the outer.
Also put the oil in while it is on its side and before you put case back on.
much easier than trickling it in the the dipstick hole after.
grease one side of the gasket and will be fine for many changes without replacing
That's nowt,
mart would dig the footings.
Dave Thorpe the block work and Malcolm would lay the patio slabs when walking the section in there heyday.
They carried on this skill as minders - I've seen Malcolm brushing dust of rocks with his gloves for graham when they were blitzing the British scene.
I guess it's a fine balance between lots of jobs and reducing number of volunteers .
Routes are kept under cover to stop illegal riding before and during etc.
With fuel costs etc then people can't always afford to go and spectate anymore - don't think it's just the ssdt.
having ridden. The ssdt a few time the coverage during the week is normally good to follow from your desk or armchair.
Think maybe just a sign of the times. Apart from the world round uk trials seem light on spectators as people have other commitments .
With the factories not as interested in the ssdt I guess it's more for the riders and close supporters now.
Not bought a tmx for years and the web is so good but very much for the now and not weeks in advance I can understand it may appear last minute but that's the way we consume things now.
With over subscribered entries something is still very good with the ssdt.
I have a softer Lia map I have made myself if you feel you want to soften off the bottom even more.
ideal on slippery streams especially with the larger front pipes
A fresh oiled filters will stop the bike from starting especially if you us an aerosol type.
spraying wd40 ( other brands available) around the mudguard intake area when running bike after washing causes revs to drop so they can be confused.
Try an iun oiled filter and let it tick over for 10 mins
i think the efi is more clever than looking at the plug colour unless you do s plug chop once its warm
Barfy had a n issue with his idle screw.
The throttle stop was as said only effecting 100% throttle position.
Sounds a bit fuel pump related to me - they start by playing up when warm and then get worse.
Possibly some dodgy fuel has effected internals of the pump
I bought a 2009 with 280 kit and put it back to a 250 and found much more manageable.
My 15 260 is nicer again so unless you feel you are struggling for power would be 100 certain before spending a lot of time and money etc.
What maps are you running?
What is your riding style?
PS -apologies for being cheeky above
