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jimmyl

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Everything posted by jimmyl
 
 
  1. I'm sure if you have twin map software there is a page or option at the bottom to download to map 1, map, 2 or both. (page 23 in the manual) TH map mode select • When select Mode1 & Mode2, map change will be reflected in both Mode1 and Mode2. • When select Mode1, map change will be reflected in Mode1. Mode2 map stays base map. • When select Mode2, map change will be reflected in Mode2. Mode1 map stays base map. Ignition map mode select • When select Mode1 & Mode2, map change will be reflected in both Mode1 and Mode2. • When select Mode1, map change will be reflected in Mode1. Mode2 map stays base map. • When select Mode2, map change will be reflected in Mode2. Mode1 map stays base map. http://www.montesa4rt.nl/ if you haven't got a manual -the Tl260 software seems better than the earlier versions
  2. jimmyl

    Engine braking

    Very true . Still waiting to be convinced the lack of engine braking is not just smoke and mirrors rather than a clever valve on the crankcase but there is a difference in the 260's Mine is crankcase is vented to atmosphere as are most 4ts. I have also run alternative ptb and maps so maybe the electronic solution must be embedded somewhere other than ptb but not sure where or how. as they used to say on x files - the answer is out there??
  3. The latest software and leads are USB I believe. you can change either map but only upload the last one unless this has changed on latest software .
  4. don't know for definite but would imagine same. Have you tried to communicate with the PTB on RR. The earlier software needed to run on old computer/laptop a (32bit??) also used serial port not USB. You can upload the map from the PTB without erasing it so plug in see. I believe you can only read the last map that was installed - so for twin map you will only get last one back out regardless of the switch setting
  5. jimmyl

    Engine braking

    I like the all or nothing approach !!
  6. jimmyl

    Engine braking

    My thinking exactly. std set up on 4t is no crank seal. 4 rt has separate oil for engine an gearbox so must be a seal between gearbox and crank on off side ( there are posts about this blowing out if to much engine oil is used), if crank pressure is the holy grail then if you take the dip stick out engine braking would increase?? project for the weekend???
  7. jimmyl

    Engine braking

    Most 4ts vent crankcase to atmosphere so presssure on down stroke is negligible ?? Std 4rt goes into bottle under headstock and then air box for emissions but most dump this and vent to atmosphere.
  8. jimmyl

    Engine braking

    I.e. Induction stroke with throttle closed. But curious to understand how does a valve in crankcase effect induction tract?
  9. jimmyl

    Engine braking

    I know what the blurb says but is thete an actual crankcase valve that lifts the valves. The old tlr had a cable to aid starting. I see nothing external on the later bikes and nobody has shown anything like a vaccum operated valve lifter etc on parts list. is it in the cam and the rest is smoke and mirrors as the later bikes definitely run on more. dont think it is in the mapping as have run both new and old throttle bodies. I'm not questioning the effectiveness just trying to understand the mechanics if it.
  10. jimmyl

    Engine braking

    Yep - Not much engine braking when the throttle is open!!!
  11. jimmyl

    Engine braking

    I'm reasonably technical but have wondered how does this work. i always believed the 4t engine braking was due to the extra stroke taking momentum out of the engine- i.e. Power required to push out exhaust gasses and compress the fresh charge. without lifting a valve or reducing compression how else is engine braking reduced unless my thinking is completely wrong.
  12. Maybe a john bliss mod or Martin Willmore. I have heard somebody talk about this type of mod - not sure wether on tc or at local events. i think old school mod as ptb mapping is less involved!!
  13. Maybe the 50/50 has been dropped to soon. If O40 routes have been eased for 2017 then by default the 50/50 route for the O50s will have eased and the O60s would have had a steady ride as half the section can be set out exactly for them and the easier O50 section should then still not be too hard. Its not necessarily the actual severity of a section which can cause issue but the style - a bit like when twin shock and modern bikes share sections - a big blast and climb to a younger/better rider (modern bike) who can hang on is an easy clean - if your not so brave or strong (or twin shock) then can be a big tumble from a height. A slippery rocky stream may take marks off the best O40 but could quite easily be cleaned by a good O60 rider. Getting routes balanced correctly at club level just on a variety of abilities can be difficult -even more so when age is added to the mix. Still think is a great series and last Sundays trial really enjoyable and well organised.
  14. jimmyl

    Bar heights

    2016/2017 footrest hangers are about £23 each available from any Honda dealer. Might be an alternative to changing bars??
  15. I really enjoyed the trial and was superbly organised. I felt I rode well on 16 marks lost on easier route ( forgetting a soft 5 ) but some of old old twin shocks and older riders looked to be struggling a bit but wouldn't want to comment on their behalf . Not sure on o40 but wouldn't want o50 route to be any easier. Graham won it on 6. ignoring any possible debate thanks to all involved yesterday and to all organisers and observers for the rest of the year
  16. Interesting - Vertigo focused on SSDT and the bikes seem to have good reliability GG possible one of the worst durable bikes now chooses to disrespects the SSDT Nuff said??
  17. Mr Sunter speaks the truth. 1st for 90% of everything unless maybe you live in the south or you are a man called Bou. Steady in first then use the twisty thing in your right hand if you want to go faster. The Mont will rev and get up stuff in bottom if you give it some stick -it will also grip and allow you time to recover due to its torque. If its quite steep then 2nd -if its really steep 3rd. Only exception is mud which I do not confess to have mastered but 3rd gear, a steady throttle 1/2 open and a very progressive slipping of the clutch seems to work - not 2 stroke rev and burn!!
  18. Been in the ground a bit longer than that . If you've got it might as well use it -only gearbox/clutch so you will soon find out how it feels without any damage
  19. Just don't ride into trees!!! didnt think throttle bodies were remappable on standard bikes. suggest work on clutch adjustment coordination between throttle and clutch.
  20. Sidi modern gaerne's don't last. had issues with stitching and soles wearing down quick. sidis much cheaper and much better support and so for wearing well. (9 months heavy use )
  21. Apologies got a 4rt keep forgetting about that fuel tap thing and carb breather pipes and floats levels
  22. elf or ATF (ATF is my preference) Lay your bike on its side if DOOOOOOOD MAAN didn't say so.
  23. blockage in rubber hose from air box to Throttle body Have you got the oil bypass tank going into air box still -are you blowing oil into air box confusing air mixture sensor. If you have fresh oiled filter or even spray penetrating oil on the bike when it is running it effects the running starting of the bike.
  24. Air leak on induction side, vacuum hose issue , short circuit on cables/relay under the tank when you re-fit tank but not when tank is off. Throttle cable routing when you put tank on?
  25. Appreciate events are difficult to get sorted but would of been good to have 2107 regulations at least on there from the start of the year - 1st round is not advertised but Mansfield later in the year is??
 
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