jimmyl

Didn't regularily use it on big climbs or mud but would imagine with a suitable map would be stonker for that type of going. Trust you enjoy

Not wanting to burst your bubble but had an 05 for several years then changed to a S/H 09 with S3 280 kit fitted.Could not get on with it and even tried several maps but converted back to 250 std with Sains map. Love it again now.

Never stripped a Montesa fully but had head/barrel off and lots of other bits and at least Honda use correct plugs and colour coding so wires will only go back where they came from. It is a lttle congested under head stock area but so long as you remember where everything comes from should be ok. Pictures in manual give good clues on routing etc. Basic mechanic skills, care and attention to detail, some photos and good organistion would normally suffice

06 manual Page 3-5 valve clearance Page 4-36 cam chain setting - reads a little confusing but I think it makes sense when bits are in your hands but if somebody can explain it better than the manual might help you. Page 4-17 special tool to lock cam tensioner Best of luck

Tappit adjustment is in the manual as is cam chain adjustment/setting. You need to make a little tool as per diagram to release tension on the cam chain. There are marks then on cam shaft sprocket when rebuilding. Worth taking off the bash plate and side front frame arms as a matter of course. You will need to support the bike via the back frame cross member or footrests to allow engine to drop slightly lower. Careful when installing cam guides into bottom end of engine as can miss bottom locating lug. Drain rad etc first. All fully documented in engine rebuild section of the manual. If you get stuck I'm sure there are enough people on here to help

Changed 280 back to 250 with engine in frame but very tight and had to tilt engine on its mounts. Comes to bits ok but struggled to get it back together in the frame.

I've had a 2003 315 do similar when riding in streams. The plastic carb top can get distorted allowing moisture in to the slide area. This causes the slide to stick - normally open. When the throttle is tried again after it seems fine. I could tell when mine was sticking as throttle cable felt slack in the twist grip. New plastic top was only a few quid

would like to see the photos 10 secs ealier and 10 sec later

I found that the Mitani 280 map was good with the S3 280 but found for normal use the 250 with a good map is a much better set up unless you are heavy or have lots of big mud climbs etc

You can get a USB to serial port lead for a couple of quid. Just need to configure drivers and ports

I have found that the 315r master cyl -or later 4rt - about

I trust you have converted maps to twin PTB format. Check Port on Computer is set to match port on software Also some Info I had given to me as follows The handlebar switch doesn't affect the uploading. 1) Uploading to mode 1 if you select mode 1 for fuel and ignition then the selected map is placed in the ECU in memory position 1. 2) Uploading to mode 2 If you select mode 2 for fuel and ignition then the selected map is placed in the ECU in memory position 2. 3) Uploading to mode 1 & mode 2 If you select this option there is no need for a handlebar switch because both memory placed have the same information. The selected mapping is send to meory position 1 and memory position 2. 4) Switching Ignition and fuel if you only select fuel or ignition, only the selected setting wil be uploaded to the selected memory position. Reading mappings from the ECU. This sounds a bit strange, but only the last uploaded mapping can be read back. So if your last upload is to mode 1 then it only possible to read back that mapping from mode 1, If your last upload is to mode 2, only mode 2 can be read back. so every time you change something in the mappings you have to write it down somewhere.

Tappets are not self adjusting - need to be checked with a feeler gauge - 2 covers on top of head. If your not confident try and get someone to assist.

All info in manual which I think is available to download on here somewhere. Maybe check tappets but normally don't move much. If bike goes ok and it don't get worse then maybe leave well alone assuming oil etc all looks ok. Check cam chain tensioner??

Check readings on stator - could be on its way out. Had similar issues many years ago. Had spark but not enough when plug was under compression. Also ran once warm.

The last few years I have tried to mark out the St David BTC as flowing as possible.( I realized that the big stuff does not always take the marks). We have seen good entries -at least for a BTC hopefully because of this. However we have maybe struggled to put on an event hard enough for the top boys as what is hard when ridden traditionally is much easier when broken down inch by inch and every spare foot of space is used to get the best line. I spend hours trying to put markers and tape in positions to try and make riders go where you want but they have the skill to take advantage of anywhere that you cant make black or white. Its very easy then to just make thing really extreme which the top few can cope with but the rest are on their ear. Its bordering on the dangerous if things don't go right. I've put things in recently that after the event give shivers down the spine when you think what may of gone wrong. No stop/Stop allowed does not only effect the riders!!!!

PISTON 4RT 13101 NN4 000

2 of the riders would of had time penalties without being stopped so suggest they where running close to time limit anyway (possibly why they where stopped???). As JC says its down to the rider to manage their own time and allow for contingency (be it puncture, traffic jam, or police intervention). Nothing wrong with informing the Police of the event which I belive is normally done as a matter of course but inviting Police in at the start is like inviting the fox in to the hen house. Even if bikes are taxed most insurance excludes trials, all No plates are illegal let alone horns, speedo, tyre pressures etc

Try Munch or Sandifords??

Ishy - was agreeing with your post. Proper trials that don't need motorized push bikes to be competitive seem very popular. If a style of bike was tuned to suit this type of trial and trials then set out to suit this type of bike would be a win/win. I guess thats why there are popular twin shock/pre 75/pre 65 and trail bike classes

Remember them well - Garden swing 50 weeks of the year -priceless for when white stuff falls

Look at Normandale traditional series and also Novogars this years - all seem to be well supported and Normandales have been superb. If bikes where made to suit this type of trial and trials where set out for this type of bike there would be many bums on seats - trouble is they would all be over 30. Don't know how you keep the cylclo trial kids and the old fogies happy!!

Sit back, feet forward and hold tight to your can of lager and TV remote. If you must ride then smooth as possible. Look for anything that will give you grip. If snow is melting hang back and wait for grip to come. If freezing then might be worth pushing on before it gets polished. If polished then try and get grip somewhere before the really bad bits and super smooth on the icy bits. In deep snow I have found that higher tyre pressures can work better as treads stay cleaner. (look at rally cars in the snow -narrow tyres not big fat low profiles)- (ohh and studs). If all else fails - big gears and lots of revs

52 inch wheel base has been the optimum for a long time. Older bikes had larger head angles to give stability for no stop riding. The modern riding style (use of clutch, stop start, improved fitness, lighter bikes etc) and improved rear suspension has tightened head angles and pushed engines forward allowing longer swing arms. I think you need to determine how you ride and what characteristics the bike has before you can determine what effect the swing arm will have. I have tweaked a tlr head angle in to help steering but find front end lighter now, will lengthen swing arm to get back to 52 inch wheel base to restore balance. 21" front wheel, 18" rear wheel, 6" suspension travel front and back and 52" wheel base leaves few major things to play with

Me too - too tight to buy proper tool which inevitably breaks, jams or snaps!!