lemur

Does it make any difference if you raise or lower the front wheel considerably? That is a tell if the float height is off. for example: it bogs out every time the front wheel is down in a hole, float height is likely off. Inspect the reed valves might also be advised, if there is fuel leak down past the reed valves they must not be sealing very well.

If the rim has no rim lock hole it is designed for tubeless. You want a Radial tubeless rear and a tube type front that has a rim lock.

Every new bike came with a nice printed service manual, so you are looking for somebody that owned one since new and still has it.

The effective length of my lever setup provides very near double the leverage of a "close to the fulcrum point" setup. 105mm vs 55mm. ... just measured it Setup works best for old veteran smashed up arthritic hands. If you experience arm pump you likely need to adjust the start of the clutch lever friction zone even closer to the bars, shown in the picture is ideal such that your finger can curl one knuckle from the bars, like a comfortable trigger.

If the clutch works nice right now, I would modify the lever to address your lever problem. Shorty levers with perches moved way in on the bars and the lever adjusted so your finger can comfortably be at the clutch friction point. You will rarely bend or bust levers in a crash and never crush your grip fingers behind the lever in a fall 🤓 inexpensive modification to try.

Stock bike has 1 valve stem plus 1 rim lock, the front rim lock is critical to keep the tire from sliding on the rim as a result of hard braking and the low tire pressure we typically run on trials bikes. If the valve stem goes crooked your rim lock was not tight enough, front wheel stem will always go crooked in the direction of braking. If the rim lock has a cap on it somebody just put it on there as spare part. If you actually did find 2 air valves on one tire and one is a smaller valve type, you likely have a Tubliss (run flat) tube installed and that's a little more complicated and not stock equipment.

Post up a picture of this rare motorcycle.

Pre 1999 Montesa Cota 315R came fitted with Paioli forks and the service manual covers their service in great detail 👍

Close; it's because the light weight, right-handed, senior citizen type rider tried using their left leg to start the silly backwards bike and found they simply could not start it.

The clutch cable is suppose to have a clevis on it where yours has a chain master link, your cable repair makes the cable too short, plus the bike will never work as good as with a new and correct cable installed, there is a visible kink in the one you have. Easy enough to find pictures on the net showing the correct clevis setup.

Interesting the slots between the pad contact surfaces appear directional, do the slots go in the opposite direction on the other side or is the disc basically shaped like an impeller? If the pads operate directionally that might make a huge difference depending on how it is assembled.

I suspect it is a steel shank sole you are looking for and I think that is something found in enduro and MX boots but not so much in trials specific boots.

Can only buy the correct plug as a Honda replacement part in Canada and Honda dealers don't sell that bike here now 😐 NGK does not import it here. Parts are very expensive when your closest supplier is 2000km away and almost nobody owns one 😎 but if price is no object they sure do work good.

👍 Even more wily Now if they can just sell the spark plugs for under 20$ 👍

So Wasted it is 😎