lemur

You could maybe try unplugging the White to White/Yellow wire coming out of the engine. Diagram appears to show it as being a dedicated lighting coil output.

Simple solution would be to simply occlude it. Black duct tape 😎

I recommend a low cost clutch cover guard that covers the whole case (400$ part) and not just the bottom part and found the best way to keep it on is to use 2 sided tape instead of the bolts.

I think I found what you need here: http://docodocodoco.com/bike/BETA_REV3.html

18 field coils, 18 blips on the C1 oscilloscope trace.

The spark occurs every second revolution in between the fuel injection pulses - no wasted spark because it is timed off the crankshaft and not off the camshaft 😐. 👍 nice scope traces, are you sure the C1 yellow trace is the timing trigger and does not represent the alternator output?

Walk them into your most local shop that rebuilds starter motors and alternators, they can't be that special. ... in a pinch if you found something close but too fat you could even sand it down to fit.

If the exhaust runs cool enough to take a sticker then it should be able to be vinyl wrapped and that is a lot easier to apply and cost effective compared to paint. I find the model sticker on the rear fender, airbox and left side of the swingarm near the chain guard show the most wear, bought a sticker to cover the airbox but the sticker did not adhere well to the black plastic parts ymmv.

This is why you should;d always buy trials bikes in pairs, it makes it so easy to trouble-shoot components when you have one that works and one that fails.

Stator should have low resistance as you are seeing, the service manual should indicate the correct resistance. The stator is part of your alternator and should output well in excess of 12 volts AC which is best observed using an oscilloscope. The fan requires the DC 12 volts and imposes the greatest load on your electric system, but for your voltage to drop so significantly with only the fan running I would be inspecting and testing everything from alternator windings, ground connections, rectifier and the fan motor itself.

I use a higher gear range compared to some, apply the revs a little earlier and use the clutch a lot more to moderate the launch acceleration. 4RT power is extremely linear and almost endless compared to the 2-strokes that thrive on short bursts of fast throttle. 4RT also has 5 clutch plates (3 cork & 2 paper) instead of 3 corks like many of the 2T bikes, design theory was to offer better bite.

Blips is a 2-stroke habit and something that the 4RT does not like to do very much, the rider is rewarded through the use of a steady throttle hand.

Curious on the subject of warranty; did the dealer sell you the complete motorcycle in the crate as a competition only race bike, or did they charge you additional for some kind of pre-delivery setup service? At the very least a dealer should warranty their own service work if they charged coin for it. "problems starting in gear." That will always be an issue, the kickstart needs to bring the engine up to the high idle speed to start because you do not have a battery and the auto-decompressor needs to operate at the correct time or the bike simply will not fire up easy.

Strange 🤔 the engine has the ability to pressurize or create a vacuum condition in the bottom end, but the transmission does not. The engine typically creates greater positive pressure during operation from blow by gasses, I would inspect the crankcase ventilation hose, because that pipe needs to vent in both directions and you don't need to take much apart to get to it.

It is a trick question from the aspect that Brembo bought J.Juan which bought Braktek subsequent to their purchase of AJP so yes; there are a whole bunch of different model brakes all made virtually by the same company. Photos are the best way to tell them apart 😕