lemur

You can call it freeze, you can call it stuck, you could even call it bunged up but the truth is it's the result of rust and we all know how to make things rust fast.

I found that I could make bushings fit better compared to stock replacements and they lasted longer, ymmv. but I also rebuilt microtomes for ~40 years. It's the front end of the TY250A plus the foot-pegs, steel bars, hand controls and stock tires that need the most upgrading ... the stock TY kickstart lever was terrible and with some work can be replaced with something far superior off a period street bike. Wheel bearings are one of the highest service and replacement items on any trials bike, with 2 TRS on the go I buy SKF bearings 10 at a time. If your brake and clutch cables are old it's well worth replacing them for the performance gains at the lever.

Considering you haven't even specified the model or year 😕 might be far more productive if you post a photo of what you have. ... or refer to the parts diagrams and service manuals available online.

Stock bushings are plastic, I always replaced the stock TY plastics with sintered bronze but that's because I own a lathe. Keep in mind with the bushings made from sintered bronze or self lubricating plastics and properly fitted, the job of the grease filling the tube is primarily to preclude water from entering and creating rust on the steel parts.

It's true, capacitors can degrade over time and alter the components performance. Only way I was ever able to 100% trouble-shoot a CDI module was to have a second machine and start swapping parts until the problems appeared on the other machine.

That's how it works with any engine that has an ignition pickup coil, yes. ... did you gap the spark plug?

Anybody that does not do observed trial event checking personally and or organize club events where you are the guy taking care of, positioning, training of the checkers etc. y'all should stay out of it! Only the Diva riders tend to be demanding, protest calls or criticize the actions or placement of the volunteer checkers. Reason being the Diva riders are not the people hosting and needing to convince checkers to voluntarily donate a free day or two of work to observe at the same section all day, just so the Diva' can have consistent checking. Resist the urge to become a Diva rider.

Did you hold the damper rod end from turning when you hit it with the impact driver or did you let the damper part spin 🤔

Section cut out of a spent CO2 canister is the right size, add a length of threaded rod and some nuts, big socket and you have a bearing remove plus install tool that you don't need to pound with a hammer.

Have it re-anodized because they didn't do a good enough job the first time. Not just a 4RT problem, it can happen on any alloy rim when quality control lets something slide, such as on the pink rims that were suppose to be anodize red.

Failing to see how that could possibly work, to start with the coating is on the outside surface so this bushing is designed to slide against the lower leg bore and that would make it attached to the stanchion tube. Any reason nobody ever shows the stanchion tube?

So what is the part number and lets see them, the photos you attached are copied from a previous post and don't show the part you report to be struggling with. If your bottom bushing is not on the stanchion tube then it's not a bottom bushing.

What's the part number? Pretty sure that part does not exist, if it had one and you have the fork apart by now it would be obvious, it's not like fork bushings are pressed on the stanchion tube or anything. ... or here's another possibility, somebody one off customized your forks

If the spur gear is made of much harder material file small v or half round groove into the gear first, then clear the holes to size with a drill through the softer material.

Once a spur gear like that spins in a press fit the only sure way is to pin it in one or more places.