lemur

Want to know what will happen after you put lighter pressure plate springs then required in your clutch <- it's going to slip in high gear ranges, same as if you leave 2 of the 6 springs out. Rhetorical question but dimpled steel clutch plates in a wet clutch leaves more space for oil between the plates, do you believe that scenario will make the clutch grab stronger or slip easier 🤔 and with dimpled plates having more oil between the plates and less surface area contacting the friction plates, will that make your clutch feel any lighter to pull at the lever, I think not. Throw in some lighter springs and you have a formula for inducing more clutch slip.

What model tire exactly, is it a tube type tire that you bought? that would account for it, tubeless rims are different profile. ... if it is a tube type tire sell it to somebody that rides an old TY.

The problem you are noting with the Beta 4T throttle response is they fitted the bike with a CV carburetor. Vacuum operated carburetors rob engine intake vacuum pressure to operate the carburetor negatively effecting both the throttle response and the engine performance, in PGM-Fi fuel systems 100% of the engine vacuum pressure is dedicated to intake of air & fuel, Fi does not exhibit the throttle lag and occasional misfires inherent to the CV carbs normal operation.

Yes that normal trashy clutch sound in neutral the 5 plate Montesa clutch does not exhibit, the TRS o-ring fail was very early after receipt of the bike, was leaking down from the start. Fortunately I rarely have clutch problems with any of my vehicles, that tractor lube works perfect, you just never even tried it to know better.

Yes 2 and experienced a failure in a TRS clutch O-ring already. The clutch is not up to par with HRC Cota 315 or 4RT, I have to keep it engaged or it sounds like a bag of bolts.

any particular reason you made that a reply to my post or is that just a habit 🤔

Personally I think you are trying to improve the best clutch in the industry. Hasn't been mentioned yet but there are 2 types of friction plates in the Cota clutch, 3 corks and 2 paper, the consensus was the paper plate gives the clutch more bite, or absorbs less oil and exhibits less compression, depending how you look at it. Key to making the clutch pull lighter is not to weaken the clutch but to improve your clutch actuator leverage at the levers, the further you hold the lever out from the pivot point the more leverage you have against the hydraulics and the greater your friction range is.

It's a well tested and proven fact that cyanoacrylate adhesive is far superior to bung plugs when you want to field repair a slice or puncture in a trials tire, particularly if it is in the sidewall of a 2 ply trials tire, plugs will just make a mess of the damaged area when it's a sidewall split.

... no dude that's just plain stupid.

You can fix most problems with crazy glue 👍

If anybody wants to trash their expensive soft compound radial tubeless competition trials tires after one use, you can throw them my way. Even the worn out tires work good for winter riding after you pump about 600$ worth of carbide grip studs into them 😎

Note that if there is no R in the tire size it's not a radial 🤓 Remember when the Michelin Light came out and they were less money then the X11 version, they are cheaper to produce and have now become the most expensive option available because of supply and demand. The X11 radial is still available and can be had for significantly less money 👍

If it didn't need the ball bearing then they could have made the rod in one piece, if there was no bearing then the ends of the 2 actuator rods would at the very least be rounded and hardened where they contact each other similar to a valve pushrod end. The ball bearing in theory reduces the friction significantly and only needs to spin at half the rate of the 2 rods, it's actually brilliant to have it in there and would serve no purpose to leave it out. How about measuring the straight rod length and have somebody confirm the straight rod part is original 🤓

You need the bearing in there because during operation the T shaped shaft spins relative to the straight shaft, the bearing turns that pressure into point loads in the centre of the 2 shafts, without the bearing between them the shafts will experience considerable more friction. Your clutch is out of engagement by the same diameter as the clutch rod 🤓 add a bearing the same diameter as the clutch rods measure and it should work.

The 4700mF 25V (part# 037.40.022.00.00) capacitor/condenser I made reference to is shown on the homologated version wiring diagram.