lemur

If only classic TY had teflon coated bushings in the lower legs to replace, but sadly they do not.

Triple trees limit your options to run larger stanchion tubes, the stock steering head bearing is the weak part. Steering head bearing upgrade to taper bearing is relatively inexpensive and gives you the most bang for your buck. ... if you could devise a way to run a fatter axle and larger bearings that would go a long way to stiffening the front end, it's not hard to twist TY175 forks. Super important to replace the stock wheel bearings frequently to maintain suspension and brake performance.

Simple answer is yes, stators can be rewound, very often by a local business that specializes in repairs to stators and starter motors.

4RT engine is the kind of engine you could run pinned for a long ride and not blow it up. They run a 36 tooth rear sprocket to make one more street worthy. 36 tooth sprocket will limit your Trials riding to mostly 1st. and 2nd. gear.

Huge difference between the frames and sub-frame on those 2 models, 315 does not even have a subframe, fragile does depend on how hard you ride them and how often you crash it. Personally at this point I would not buy any trials bike that does not have a 4 pot front brake. Both are 2-stroke and would be horrible for the 20 km of on road ride in addition to a full day of trials terrain riding. Pre-mix fuel is going to be a problem for street riding distances greater than the normal 2 litre trials bike fuel capacity will provide. A 2-stroke air cooled engine will not have the fuel range or engine longevity you will get with a 4RT. Air cooled 2-stroke is going to smoke and rattle even more compared to a water cooled engine and adding oil to fuel reduces fuel octane making race fuel more relevant. Fat bars on newer models are less prone to bending compared to 7/8" bars with a crossbar support. KTM 2T enduro bikes have cheaper buy in and replacement parts on average, but they break lots of pegs, rads, exhaust pipes and plastics.

The bike will be more prone to jerky throttle response in 1st gear, same reason you shift up a range on wet slippery muddy terrain, higher gear range with more clutch control will apply power to the rear wheel more smoothly and with greater range. and I suspect it is only a 125 and not 225 so there is not much power range to begin with so good clutch and throttle control is imperative.

4RT is the kind of engine you could pin for a while and not have a problem, very capable ride and user friendly as trials bikes come, carry a tire pump and pump up the tires lots for road use, let tire pressure down when you get to the riding area. You can get a saddle that can carry extra fuel storage. With a 4-stroke you won't be trailing a smoke screen on the road rides. Some of those motorcycles you are considering a fairly fragile considering trials bikes and hard enduro bikes are constant repairs and maintenance.

With it being 10km from the nearest woods I would be looking for a Montesa 4RT, it's a durable bike that has been in production for decades and you can still get any parts. A 4-cycle engine is far better suited to the sustained road speeds and you still might even have some fuel left in the tank when you get there but if you don't you can fill at a regular gas station or petrol station or whatever they have where you live. 2 stroke trials bike on 10k of road just to get to the riding area would be brutal on both the bike and rider.

35mm Betor 😎 standard equipment on Rickman Zundapp

Can you clean a gun? It's about the same but comes apart different. You need somebody that has serviced forks before to assist you the first time and from then on it will never be a huge problem or expense, I have assisted many in past years and they now do their own servicing, need to service one right now myself, a fork seal blew out this winter so I will service both sides. It's messy more than anything and takes about half a day once you have the parts. There are only 4 things that can be replaced in regular servicing, fork seals, slide bushings, oil and the spring if it is bagged out. Good parts to inventory because the bike is absolutely going to need all of them some day. Best luck with your service 🖖

You posted to the general forum, might help more if we know what local is. Forks are something that need servicing so often it pays to learn how to service them yourself.

You could maybe try unplugging the White to White/Yellow wire coming out of the engine. Diagram appears to show it as being a dedicated lighting coil output.

Simple solution would be to simply occlude it. Black duct tape 😎

I recommend a low cost clutch cover guard that covers the whole case (400$ part) and not just the bottom part and found the best way to keep it on is to use 2 sided tape instead of the bolts.

I think I found what you need here: http://docodocodoco.com/bike/BETA_REV3.html

18 field coils, 18 blips on the C1 oscilloscope trace.

The spark occurs every second revolution in between the fuel injection pulses - no wasted spark because it is timed off the crankshaft and not off the camshaft 😐. 👍 nice scope traces, are you sure the C1 yellow trace is the timing trigger and does not represent the alternator output?

Walk them into your most local shop that rebuilds starter motors and alternators, they can't be that special. ... in a pinch if you found something close but too fat you could even sand it down to fit.

If the exhaust runs cool enough to take a sticker then it should be able to be vinyl wrapped and that is a lot easier to apply and cost effective compared to paint. I find the model sticker on the rear fender, airbox and left side of the swingarm near the chain guard show the most wear, bought a sticker to cover the airbox but the sticker did not adhere well to the black plastic parts ymmv.

This is why you should;d always buy trials bikes in pairs, it makes it so easy to trouble-shoot components when you have one that works and one that fails.

Stator should have low resistance as you are seeing, the service manual should indicate the correct resistance. The stator is part of your alternator and should output well in excess of 12 volts AC which is best observed using an oscilloscope. The fan requires the DC 12 volts and imposes the greatest load on your electric system, but for your voltage to drop so significantly with only the fan running I would be inspecting and testing everything from alternator windings, ground connections, rectifier and the fan motor itself.

I use a higher gear range compared to some, apply the revs a little earlier and use the clutch a lot more to moderate the launch acceleration. 4RT power is extremely linear and almost endless compared to the 2-strokes that thrive on short bursts of fast throttle. 4RT also has 5 clutch plates (3 cork & 2 paper) instead of 3 corks like many of the 2T bikes, design theory was to offer better bite.

Blips is a 2-stroke habit and something that the 4RT does not like to do very much, the rider is rewarded through the use of a steady throttle hand.

Curious on the subject of warranty; did the dealer sell you the complete motorcycle in the crate as a competition only race bike, or did they charge you additional for some kind of pre-delivery setup service? At the very least a dealer should warranty their own service work if they charged coin for it. "problems starting in gear." That will always be an issue, the kickstart needs to bring the engine up to the high idle speed to start because you do not have a battery and the auto-decompressor needs to operate at the correct time or the bike simply will not fire up easy.

Strange 🤔 the engine has the ability to pressurize or create a vacuum condition in the bottom end, but the transmission does not. The engine typically creates greater positive pressure during operation from blow by gasses, I would inspect the crankcase ventilation hose, because that pipe needs to vent in both directions and you don't need to take much apart to get to it.