lemur

Grew up around electricity and electronics, it's a passion. But in this case this is why I always like to buy my trials bikes in pairs, makes troubleshooting a no brainer 😆

Lots of info there but that fella never returned to say what the problem was.

How old is your spark plug cap? Service manuals indicate a short life for resistor plug caps and recommend a fairly frequent scheduled replacement.

Did you already read "Sherco Ignition Timing Manual Supplement" at least you can see where the timing make is suppose to be. Personally I doubt there is a problem with the timing. Continuity meter test of the ignition timing pickup coil would be in order, the timing pickup initiates the spark which is intensified by the ignition module and the ignition coil. Service manual will show resistance values you should see on the wires connected to the ignition module inputs. The rectifier/regulator should only be needed for the fan motor and possibly lights and that is the only place you should read DC power of roughly 12 volts, everything else will be AC. Based on the photos you have some work to do on the spark plug wire and cap, everything downstream of the ignition module to the plug cap can also be meter tested for continuity.

Assuming the head gasket is leaking into the water jacket, typically that would force coolant out of the cooling system because combustion pressures are so much higher than coolant system pressure, it would be unusual for coolant to be forced or drawn into the combustion chamber during operation and more likely to leak coolant into the combustion chamber when it is not running. Raw coolant might collect in the exhaust system and that will not steam or evaporate until your exhaust temperatures are very high. I think you are looking for signs of coolant disappearing. Anti-freeze has a distinct odour and that should be another tell.

Rule of thumb is white smoke is produced by burning coolant.

Well when mine went the dealer said he knew exactly what was needed and the parts were already in stock and he had done them before. My TRS dealer helped me install the parts in a hurry because we wanted to go riding.

I she blows you can disconnect the starter by removing the idler gear very easy. (spur gear between the starter and the sprag)

Horrible isn't it. Sprag clutch, should continue to work until it doesn't and then you get to replace it. Already had one go myself, it's the cost of having electric start. Seems to be safe to still ride after the bearing blows, it doesn't seem to spew metal parts everywhere.

What should they do with all the dead animal hides, would you have them buried or burned? <- a reasonable question.

Well he does ride Montesa 4T which weighs more and has a far less lively suspension to the TRS, but TRS too light in the front end, no.

That's a first, never heard of anybody complain about a motorcycle being too light before.

So good I bought a second one 👍 electric start is expensive to maintain and doesn't work well in sub-zero temps, otherwise the bikes are awesome and better built then GasGas imo.

All of those electric components can be meter or scope tested to determine if replacement is required. ... I always start trouble-shooting electrics from the power source and work down stream (garbage in garbage out) you are doing it in reverse. Alternator produces the electricity so you should always start there.

Boots designed for Enduro and Motocross. They are like wearing leg casts on your feet compared to moccasins and you will be giving up brake and peg control for increased ankle support.

Simple Zener diode will be mounted on a heat sink and shielded from melting anything. Time was when you could buy that fridge rectifier from a local radio shack store for 4 bucks, dating myself.

Multi-meter sucks for reading AC an oscilloscope is the way to go, that said it sure does sound like you have the multi-meter on the wrong settings. Start with the stator output, that is where you should see lots of non-regulated non-rectified dirty voltage coming out, your lights originally use non rectified power with the AC voltage controlled only by a regulator that sends excess voltage to ground (make sure the ground connection is solid and if that is not happening your regulator is fried.) your fan motor is the only thing requiring DC volts so after the thermostat switch you have the full wave bridge rectifier. That rectifier contains 4 diodes and is the part that will most likely fry if your voltage regulation fails. If voltage output from the stator gives wild numbers inspect the stator coil for damage from heat and test the continuity on the coil windings. From the yellow wire output to ground should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms as per the GasGas wiring schematic.

Would love to ride with y'all some time to show you how it works 😎 ... but do you have to keep dropping names of top riders.

You're asking the wrong questions, if you want a catalog of taper bearing seals you go to the same place you buy your bearings and ask for the bearing seal catalog. Bearing seal manufacturers include names like Timken, FAG, SKF and dozens more that you will recognize. Virtually every bearing supplier has listings for bearing seals on spec, you're just asking for the wrong thing when you ask for kits to fit a specific vehicle application. ... taper roller bearings with a seal on one side and only a grease cup on the other side is standard equipment on the majority of car, truck and trailer wheels traveling the road today.

It's just an opinion but when I ride any modern 300cc trials bike that can pull from 0 to maximum usable speed in third gear, I put it in third and leave it there. I've learned to control third gear with the clutch and throttle and that gear range now feels natural in all situations. Better riders apparently have the skills to master 3 or 4 gear ranges, not me, 3rd. with stock sprockets works a treat so I use it faithfully, 4th. for me is only for riding fast trails & riding between sections, ymmv. Highly recommend you try 3rd. a 2021 Beta 300 factory has ample power to pull a light to average weight rider with ease. First gear is great for getting a light weight rider into trouble at the top of a steep climb, I can't remember ever using first gear for anything other then to locate neutral.

If you are weighting the bars too much you are not bending your knees enough.

Sealed taper bearing, good luck with that you would need to sink the bearing deep into the headstock and install a seal above and below the bearings. If your headstock has bearing seals now those too are standard items at the same store. Do you really want somebody to put those 4 items into a kit form and sell it to you at 300% markup?

They don't make bearings just for motorcycles, take it to a bearing supply store. ... if it is a taper bearing you just described a common 32004 taper bearing

It's not so much about putt putt putt and then standing still as it is being able to accelerate over something and recover on the other side gracefully, retaining forward momentum when required and having control in down hills, bumpy terrain and possibly deep mud and water terrain. Add the cement block before you turn out for a competition or you might be over-whelmed by the first rock outcrop that has tape on both sides to make you go over and not around the rock.

You can use your meter on continuity test setting to test your points for resistance and for timing when they close or open. TY175 has 2 stator coils, one dedicated to spark and the other for lights, all coils should have measurable low resistance of just a few ohms. Spark ignition coil will have measurable continuity resistance as well as the spark plug wire lead and cap. The voltage output from the stator ignition coil is non-regulated alternating current in excess of 6 volts and best tested with an oscilloscope.