lemur

DOT 4 brake fluid in the brakes available at auto stores Are there any farm tractor or heavy equipment dealers near where you live? For 2-stroke transmissions with wet clutch I use all season hydraulic excavator oil ISO46 and replace it frequently because it only needs about half a litre. Been using it for decades without problem in 2-stroke transmissions and Montesa 4RT transmissions.

Personally I found the EM Race clutch provided little to no feedback through the lever, the bike has a propensity to spin the rear wheel and my first thought after riding one was they are geared too low at the rear sprocket. I think if you made the already powerful motor spin up more rapid you will lose any benefit to additional wheel spin. ... most dangerous feature ever is the tick-over setting, if your throttle sticks (and that can happen) it will launch you.

TRS will have the more rigid frame and handles superlative because of it, the TRS foot peg mounting brackets are bolted to the frame making it more serviceable. On the other models the foot peg brackets are part of the frame. TRS generally command a slightly higher price & TRS has the best dealer support where I live, ymmv.

I think the only reason my home built bushings worked good was because of quality control 😆 by turning your own bushes you can fit the spindle to the brass with just the right clearance for the grease you pump in there.

I turned brass bushings to replace the OEM plastic ones and that worked really well. The open cup needles you linked to call for a hardened axle and not just the big bolt they put on the stock bike.

That doesn't look like an exacta alloy fuel tank, looks more like a steel Yamaha TY tank. Problem with the rear end is, the countershaft sprocket is a long way ahead of the swing arm pivot point and the original swing arm is very short. If you alter the rear suspension and sprocket size significantly the rear end starts doing the pogo-stick motion. Angle at the steering head is definitely the source of the slow steering and the leading axle doesn't help that situation. I agree on not wanting to chop the frame and it's a shame you can't adjust rake at the triple trees like they did with choppers in the olden days. Stock forks are spindly and the stanchion tubes are very close together which also limits the lock to lock. The biggest improvements you can do to the bike over stock OEM is to run modern radial gummy tires 👍 and improve the bash plate coverage.

Might want to mention what part of the world you reside in. If you are not set on the Scorpa brand you might want to look at Montesa as an alternative. Used 4T Montesa' will outnumber used 4T Scorpa' by about 7 to 1. Montesa fuel injection and the single cam with screw adjusters engine is far superior to the Yamaha carb and twin cam with shims engine. The really early Scorpa Easy with a Rotax engine suffered from a poorly designed air box that filled with water off the rear wheel during deep water crossings. Same problem Xispa experienced, they drown easy 😉 I called it my Scorpa Drown-Easy.

He needs to follow me for a while 😀 today would have been good

Re: "Suzuki models share the same rear sprocket bolt pattern, as well as alternatives for the front sprocket? I'm going to suggest yes to that 👍 Suzuki used a Lot of parts in common with other models on the Exacta. Great motor! but omg they turn slow at the forks and the Beamish I rode felt like a pogo stick in the rear. What's your plan, gear it slower or faster? A really large rear sprocket will exasperate the pogo stick action and I remember the internal gear ratios are not ideal.

👍 Make some noise is what we usually say, third gear really rocks. If it was a Montesa you'd want to twist it even harder. ...? do you brake and clutch with only the index finger and do you have your levers fairly level of tilted way down. Keeping the levers closer to level helps.

Sad thing is every Montesa comes with a nice big service manual, so the previous owner didn't give you everything for your bike. Like jonny says the parts and manuals are for the most part interchangeable, I had 3 different model year 4RT' at the same time and swapped parts between them to trouble-shoot with no issues. Throttle body, fuel tank, ignition components all interchange with no issues. 2012 model, the first problem you encounter will be valve clearance adjustments when it becomes hard or impossible to start. Everything else on the 4RT is near indestructible and trouble free.

I bet you're riding down a gear, with a 300cc engine 👍 cog it up one notch, they love 3rd. gear and you won't need to grab near as much throttle.

This home built tool will work great for removing and reinstalling wheel bearings, unless somebody failed to install the middle spindle as suggested above. 1/2" Threaded rod, any large 3/4" drive socket that is larger than the bearing outside diameter, 2 nuts & the sleeve part is cut out of a spent CO2 canister like they use in paint ball or pellet guns. Use the same tool to insert the new bearings without the sleeve and replacing it with an old bearing or large flat washer in place of the steel sleeve, no hammer and no heat is required for insert or removal because you can pull the bearing straight in or out. If the middle spindle was left out that is going to make disassembly difficult and if it was torqued down, you may have already damaged your new bearings.

Try Jitsie - they are great when it comes to common needed trials bike parts.

AJP brakes are common and used on lots of models, they don't need to be copied from Sherco because AJP makes them. The gas cap on the other hand might be very unique, that's not the kind of part Xispa would copy. Photos and dimensions of what you have might help somebody to recognize it.

Event was a great success 👍 heavy rain just hours before the start turned topsoil into a slippery slimy mess which roughly doubled the scores, but results were well balanced across all rider classes and near predictable which means I must have done a good job setting up the sections 😎 thank-you to all riders and support workers that made it a great trial. results can be found here: https://www.ataont.ca/ata-arden-trial-provisional-results-july-16th-2023/

Typewriter wite-out works good to highlight a timing mark, the white shows bright under the timing light. I may have been looking at the service manual for a newer TY, but there still should be marks from the factory. Early TY's had extra weights bolted to the flywheel to increase inertial torque, I rode them both with the weights installed and without, the difference being the engine spools up a little faster if the weights are removed (personally I preferred the performance with the extra weights removed)

Chapter 2 page 10 & 11 in the service manual describes the timing process, the case and the flywheel already have alignment marks on them just to the right of the 12 o'clock position. Timing with a strobe is performed when the engine is operating at 2500 rpm.

Glass weave holds water, water promotes rust if the header isn't alloy and contain iron. When glass wrap gets wet and hot that makes steam and steam can still burn you, Header temperature on a 2-stroke in far less then a 4-stroke, you'd be burning all of your riding pants if it was a 4-stroke. A heat shield that stands off the header pipe works far better at reducing heat transfer. Jitsie sells carbon fibre heat shields and they work great. If you do wrap it start your wrap at the rear and wrap forward towards the cylinder head, that way the layers will over-lap like fish or snake scales and the wrap material will catch less dirt spray off the front wheel.

75N/mm - rider weight 80 to 90kg 80N/mm - rider weight 90 to 100kg 85N/mm - rider weight +100kg du site Web de jitsie

Normal long day ride for me is near 2 tanks full, tank is roughly 2 litres. Montesa/Honda engine is fuel injected so I don't let the fuel tank go empty, fuel is the only thing that cools the fuel pump.

TRS 300RR is my other ride, fuel consumption is considerable, manual calls for 98 octane fuel + 1% 2-stroke oil, x-trac version is the same bike with a bigger tank. Great bike for competition; extremely spirited handling, tons of power down low in the revs and launches strong in 3rd and even 4th from a dead stop, being a 2-stroke it reaches max rpm rapidly.

curious, what do you do with a Wombat, sell it to zoo's ?

I bet if you went over there and introduced yourself, somebody would let you try their Montesa or maybe anything else! The clubs and social aspects of riding trials bikes are well worth the effort. Following better riders is what will make you a better rider.

You would need to change oil in a 4RT that frequently if you were Toni Bou and somebody else was paying for everything, otherwise; 4RT would be an excellent choice for you and will not require any more maintenance then any other trials bike. Oil capacity is only half a litre of engine oil plus half a litre of transmission oil separate, the oil filter is commonly available and inexpensive. Montesa is a sturdy built machine with very few shortcomings, they handle very subtle and grounded compared to many 2-stroke competitive machines, they have an incredibly wide power band that is very old guy friendly (I have 7 years on you) Montesa being 4-stoke consumes less fuel, doesn't require pre-mix and is happy to perform on lower octane fuel. Trials bikes are quiet enough to sneak up on wildlife, we do that every day and see lots of Deer, Bobcats, Moose and everything else on a regular basis. You can get an extra fuel tank that mounts behind your number plate if you need greater range. Trials bikes were more expensive then Enduro bikes and Trials bike parts more expensive, but based on riders here the Enduro bikes drop a lot more money over the course of a season because they crash and break far more frequently. Modern bikes are far lighter then twin-shock vintage models and won't bruise your legs near as bad when they do fall on you, once you are accustom to riding the modern rides are far easier to survive on and well worth the extra investment. Any version of the 4RT is Highly recommended for your planned use 👍