lemur

The reason I have guests here is so I have people to ride with, it's as much for my benefit as theirs, weather is improving here for winter riding and it looks like lots of stud season left 👍 That's my retirement plan in action, if your plan is to host for profit I think you are doing it for the wrong reason, it needs to be driven by your personal passion for the sport.

Stock original is just like the parts manual shows, every Montesa I ever bought new came with an excellent printed service manual and the bike will be just like the parts list shows. Best one I ever home built was from 1/4" Thordon elastomeric bearing plastic attached to the plate with large flat head socket cap screws.

From what I recall of a friends Fantic with the Dellorto carb his low speed adjuster was a fuel circuit and not an air circuit so logic when adjusting it might be counter-intuitive to typical. In the absence of a service manual 1 and 1/4 turns out is a good start point no matter what kind of small engine it is and I would expect to need to turn it in slightly on one of them. Sounds like you have the slide idle adjusting screw figured out 👍 the idle adjuster screw bumps up against a ramp machined into the slide, opposite side has a slot cut in the entire length of the round slide to follow a guide pin, intent being to stop the round slide from rotating. Been 6 hours so guessing you already have it running by now.

Respect is all I ever charge.

If they do it that way the vacuum sensor must be incorporated into the 4RT throttle body. Wasted spark is not a problem wasted fuel would be a problem, only makes sense they would need to inject only when an engine vacuum is present 👍

I would want to think the part called the 'ignition pulse generator' has something to do with ignition pulse generation.

Rule of thumb to determine if a spark is wasted or not is to look at where the timing in taken from. Crankshafts rotate at twice the speed of the valve camshaft so if it is ignition timed off the crank logic would dictate a wasted spark and if it is timed off the camshaft rotation that will happen half as often.

Ride the pegs more and the bars less. You know you are making progress when you can go over the bars and not let go of them until you are laying on the ground 😆

Only advantage I can think of is Full knobby works better for deep snow, because you can fit them with larger tire studs and that would be great for about 1 or 2 months of the year.

Then he might better reassemble it with as few replacement parts as possible and dealer trade it for something more reliable 🤔

I would be replacing any part that has visible signs of brinelling and once I had a new part in hand I would stroke a file against that failed bearing surface to see if it was ever hardened. If a file bites into the steel bearing surface easy then the bearing surface was never adequately hardened and that would indicate a defect in the parts manufacture.

Flatlands dilemma 😎 if the ground is soft I just bury the rear wheel a little and stationary balance the bike to park it. Your dog bone link looks like it has taken impacts, this happens because the OEM bash plate is poorly designed and fails to protect that part adequately. If impact damage compromises the bearing seals, water infiltration will fail the bearings very quickly. The dog bone part is symmetrical so you can swap it end for end and smash the other end for a while. Best way I found to prevent the impact damage was to modify the bash plate so it extends back more and protects the linkage, similar to how the Mitani does on one of their aftermarket skid plates. 🤓

Sure sounds like the same problem with a resolution found.

Sure does look like Cota. My riding buddy just picked up his new Beta Factory and the kickstand self retracts the same way, you can fix that quick with a hand file. I had a collection of Montesa side stands from 2001 to 2017 and yes there were variations on the theme, they all were removed after the first time it cost me a 5, the stand with a foot pad welded on the end caught logs and would stop you dead. lol I stored them with my MV Agusta F3 passenger pegs in the useless parts drawer.

In 1974, that's easy, you oiled the chain with the used oil that you drained out of the engine.

Just noticed a small something, your side stand is welded onto the swingarm, that's not stock because I always removed it with the 2 bolts in the swingarm, don't need side stands around here because we have trees and rocks everywhere. 😎

You got it right; the lobe with the larger contact surface goes to the swingarm, smaller one bolts to the dog bone linkage, longest arm bolts to the shock.

Is that anything like an MV Agusta 👍 great ride if you want to go really really fast.

Don't know how it is where you ride, but around here youth class is a support class and not a championship class, you can ride almost anything in a support class because it counts for almost nothing. From my riding on electric trials bikes so far I set the power switch in the lowest power position and don't move that up until I actually find the thing to be underpowered, which so far has never happened.

Found this on ossa-efi re the fuel level sensor: "The sensor is used to illuminate an optional warning light when less than 3/4 liter of fuel remains." "The complete circuit is just the thermistor, an incandescent light bulb, and 12-volt power all connected in series. " If that is true all the fuel level sensor does is turn on a warning light.

Superglue aka crazy aka cyanoacrylate is great to attach 2 perfectly mating surfaces, it can work to seal a tire slash or glue your fingers together, it is useless for filling holes in a steel stanchion tube and you can't form or shape it after it dries. Even 'hard as nails' nail polish can help to fill holes, but anything short of new steel parts will eventually fail plus damage the seals and slide bushings resulting in additional expense.

No matter it is just an anti-rattle clip like on any disc brake and if you study it close the spring clip only looks non-symmetrical. ... only reason you questioned it is because it assembles either way.

The dent is in the stanchion tube? Pictures if you can might help. If the dent is anywhere the fork seal slides over it is a problem and the best fix with stanchion tubes is always replacement. Almost certainly Showa since Honda owns a big part of it. Easy to service once you've seen how, always messy be ready for that, clean everything just like you would clean a gun. Inspect slider bushings for wear on the nylon coatings, the slider bushings are a common item for replacement in order to keep fork seals good. Buy the better name brand fork seals not the super cheap ones, they aren't the same take photos during dismantle so you put everything together the correct way and iff in doubt refer to the parts manual drawings.

The shift forks, shaft they slide on and the little part that follows in the groves on the shift drum would be my prime suspect. Hard to tell much without hands on or having worked the shifter before it was dismantled. Logically one small rough spot would not make it rough shift in all the gears, it would only affect the shifts when the shift forks hit that rough spot.

Shorty lever moved way in on the bars gives you greater leverage and friction zone range. Also makes it impossible to jam your fingers behind the levers. Highly recommended setup to make the lever pull lighter.