Tr1AL

I imagine Dougie Lampkin may care a great deal also.

https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/31518-montesa-mh-349-questions/ Smaller capacity motor will usually run a larger pilot jet in the same size carb than a larger capacity motor as there is less suction produced to create the draw through the venturi so you may have a too rich idle circuit using the same carb from a 200cc TY in the 349 , you might like to try a smaller idle/starter/pilot jet to begin with and see if that improves things. Good luck . Alan

And fans of the Vertigo brand will be very happy as for £7000.00 you will get 5 bikes so plenty of spares available for when things break.

A Chinese motorcycle brand has bought Vertigo and it will be run in Europe by Marc Colomer and Xiu.

@mcman56 As this all worked at some point previous to this happening you could grind or file the crushed inner edges of the spacer tube at both ends until the axle passes through it again and then grease it all up put some new C3 wheel bearings in and tighten the axle up by hand no torquing no excessive tightening needed then push on the suspension a few times to centralise everything and then tighten the pinch bolts to clamp/lock up the spindle/axle bolt.

@larro Konrad knows as much if not more than the man that designed it so you are much better off listening to him than me obviously. I only have one more thing to add which is are the inner edges of the clutch basket teeth where the edges of the clutch plates slide completely smooth and also the edges of the tangs on the plates themselves are they deburred/ clean if not you could clean them up with a file to make the clutch plate movement as smooth as it can be to aid separation.

Hi Konrad that OSSA motor sounds like the most needy badly engineered lump available perhaps that is why Fajardo arrived and exited so swiftly.

Good luck! Best wishes Alan.

If you feel that you have covered all the bases and to no avail there is one more thing that you could try and that would be to clean the excess bonded material in the gaps between the clutch fibre pads the idea being to allow oil/fluid to move away from the fibre pads to reduce drag. For example use a scraper with a sharp edge such as the type available in a scalpel set. Good luck.

@andrewb 3mm thick sheet of aluminium cut to fit and bonded underneath the break point (Gorrilla Gel Superglue) and rivetted in all the best places to add the max possible strength. or find a second hand one in a breakers yard.

@larro OK if that is not a thing that may help the only thing that I can think of if you have the correct clutch pack thickness would be air bubbles in the hose that need bleeding out or failing/leaking seals in the clutch hydraulic system or there needs to be less free play between the lever and the clutch plunger pin(with a spring) that sits between the lever and the piston of the clutch master cylinder for example if you set the lever so that it can move as far out/away from the handle bar as it can be set by unscrewing the adjuster screw on the perch and then set the gap between the lever adjuster screw and the plunger pin to be the minimum possible you will get the max opening of the clutch plates possible to give the least amount of drag created by gearbox clutch oil/fluid for the throw of the lever , with this adjustment the pull at the clutch lever is the hardest on the finger , that is of course with all the other parts of the system working as when the system was new. Also did you try ATF dexron III which is less viscous almost like water or Perhaps VI which I think is used in the later Sherco motors. Hope you find a solution soon . Best wishes Alan.

That is a really bad leak , it is so bad it almost looks like it has been raining.

@stogga you could try taking a file to grooves if that is your problem , as a last resort of course

@larro If you can obtain it where you are you could try Motorex Trial gear oil , in my experience it is less draggy in a trials clutch than most of the others that are popular with the trials community.

@Chaz9462 I personally never had any problem removing the gear off the crank and I have done it many times , normally after removing the clip it just pulls off by hand , it looks like some one has been beating on that one which will probably have made it harder to remove as the edges will have spread , I would heat only the gear with gas/oxy or a heat gun then put a standard gear puller on it after putting something suitable in the hole in the crank. for the puller to push against. DO NOT USE THE CASING AS A LEVERAGE POINT ESPECIALLY NOT ON A MAGNESIUM CASE . IF YOU WARM WITH A GAS TORCH DO NOT LET THE FLAME NEAR THE MAGNESIUM FOR OBVIOUS REASONS .