iank

My lads Rev 50 was due a plug change, I removed the old one NGK B5SH. A quick google indicates it should be a NGK B9ES. My issue is the thread is longer but does fit ok with hitting the piston but it also seems to rev a lot higher on tick over. Were these swapped for any reason or has previous owner just fitted an odd plug? And why would it rev a lot higher on ticker over? Any help or info would be much appreciated.

It has the mikuni carb in too and not the khein carb

Hi does anybody know the float height for a 2010 Evo 200? Mine is leaking fuel when leant over on the stand, was just going to start with checking the float height is correct.

it nearly chuck me over today and I thought what the hell!! Pulled the clutch in to roll the bike and it wouldn't move, it was like the clutch wasn't disengaging. After a bit rocking back and forth it was ok. Like I said the engine sounded like it was knocking a bit both times. The first time I just thought it was me but after the second time I am convinced the 2 were related. I started it again after the second time and knocking was gone. I obviously called it a day after that as I don't want to damage things any more. Ive built a few of my own engines for road racing so I should be ok to strip it all down. Although its been a few years since ive had a 2 stroke apart.

My next stop was to drain the oil and see if there is any shrapnel, failing that I'll strip the clutch side. If that fails I'll split the cases. Occasionally the kickstart feels suspect but again I put that down to user error or just the position of the stroke. Oh well at least I can give it a check over while I am in there.

I have used 2nd quite a bit but its never down it in 2nd always in 1st. It shifts as it should through the gears.

Hi all, ive been ridding on the TXT for a few weeks now and loving it. I have a strange issue where it will be in first gear and I can be moving and all of sudden it stalls and locks up. The bike won't move if I pull the clutch in or not its like its stuck solid. After a bit of rocking back and forth I can get it in neutral and away I go a again. The first time I thought it was rider error. Its now done it twice today, the motor/transmission sounded rattly before both times. The rest of the day its sounded sweet. Its like its not engaged properly and jumps out of gear but instead of a false neutral it just locks up. Any common issues I should be looking at other than buying a Beta Evo !!

Thanks, he’s only plodding around on it so definitely not flogging it just yet. I’ll check the thermostat and go from there 👍

Hi all, just picked a little Beta rev 50 up for my son to start trials on. Does anyone know what sort of temp the fan should come on? He rode it yesterday and it didn’t come on at all but it was a cold day. The fan works if I close the circuit at the thermostat so maybe it’s duff thermostat? Other question is what sort of premix ratio is good for these little Betas? Regards Ian

Hi all I am looking for a bike for my 10 year old lad. This will be his first bike. People have suggested a ty80 as a good starter but I can’t help think these are a bit outdated now? Having said that I don’t want to spend a fortune if doesn’t carry it on. The ty are in budget along with the 50cc autos from beta etc. Would the 50cc autos be to small for him are they any good or should I go down the clutch/geared route ie ty80 ……….any help or advice much appreciated

I am possibly going to look at a little GasGas txt 2000 50cc twist and go for for my lad. Apparently it did run but know the guy can’t get it started after it’s been sat for a while. What sort of psi should I be looking at on a compression test? Obvs it will be cold too, also do you test with throttle wide open the same as we do on 4 stokes?

Thanks guys, routed it up and been out on it for the 4 hours today practicing with a mate of mine. Absolutely loved it!! First trial entered for next weekend! God help me

So the txt 280 pro is up and running, gets up to temperature fine and the fan kicks in like it should and seems to ride fine. I have noticed that the small breather pipe exiting the casing near the gear lever is slightly dripping oil, seems and smells like gearbox or atf oil. The pip is routed out by the bottom of the rear shock. Seems to drip only when revs are increase. Is this normal? Sorry I am just not that clued up with these little 2 strokes, gimme a Japanese 4 stroke 4 cyclinder race bike any day of the week 😂

I am also guessing the coil should be bolted to the frame? Mine was just hanging around under the tank by the rad cap

It’s definitely the leonelli unit. The wiring looks a mess so I’ll check through when I get the replacement rectifier

Thanks Faussy I’ll have an another good look tonight. As for year I am not sure but would guess 2005 2006, the bikes bit of mix 🙄

Eventually had my 280 running at the weekend but realised the fan wasn’t kicking in. Tested the fan on a 12v supply all good. Looking at a wiring diagram, the yellow supply should come up to then thermo switch and then to the rectifier to supply the fan via the red and blue plug. The yellow supply on mine was straight into the rectifier and then out via the other yellow to the thermo switch and then earthed the other side. Is this correct or has been botched previously. I don’t seem to have a green earth either on the fan plug as in the diagrams. I’ve just purchased another rectifier as the wires were hanging by a thread on mine but it’s the same as in the pic.

Thanks Tr1AL I’ll have look at that 👍 the clutch drags slightly too so may have to have the plates out as well and check all them 🙄

Thanks guys, I did wonder if it was because the slave was in the clutch casing and possible leakages would be an issue. I haven't tried a seal kit yeti can't really work out what size mine is. Ive seen kits for large and small MC's. I'll look at either a seal kit or another mineral MC.

Ive got a weepy clutch MC which is mineral oil. Question is can I fit a DOT type MC or do I need to stick to mineral? What is the reason for using mineral oil over DOT fluid?

I checked the frame again last night and couldn’t see a number stamped on the steerer tube. I did wonder if it’s been powder coated and it’s been covered up. It’s definitely not paint. Everything seems to be in decent order and it runs fine. I will try and source the neoprene cover to stop crap going in the air box. Just gotta stick some new fork seals and fresh oil in as they are leaking and a new piston kit in the clutch MC as that leaks too. After that I am good to go. Never done any trials or trials riding before, I am looking forward to it! Does anyone know of any practice days around norfolk, Suffolk or cambridge? Massive thanks for everyone’s help I am sure I’ll have more questions 😂

Thanks Tr1AL that’s a massive amount of info. I’ll check the frame and see if it’s stamped on the head stock.

So Ive had another good look this afternoon and the frame does have the lug for the rear brake MC but the MC is actually mounted on the plate behind the engine. The left hand engine casing actually feels plastic, its definitely not aluminium. The right hand casing does indeed look bit corroded but possibly from a clutch line leak. The clutch MC has a green top so that should be mineral oil? To be fair the whole clutch MC leaks anyway so I am going strip that and rebuild with new seals. Just trying to figure out what I have so if I need parts I can order the correct ones. Looks to be bit of a mix which is fine as long I can figure out what is what. Ideally i'd like to know what the engine is, pro/edition incase I need to replace any internals. Also it normal to run the rear brake lines between the rear shock and swingarm on a trials bike? Ohlins rear shock too which I guess wasn't standard?

Thanks for your helps guys, I’ll have a look and check the things listed. I’ll get some pictures of the cyclinder and engine too.

Thanks guys. They guy who owned it previously thought it was a 2004 but did state he didn't know for sure. After a bit of digging the later bikes had black frames and 40mm forks as stated above but the number would say otherwise. Ive attached a picture of the frame number. It doesn't look like its been painted. the forks could have been swapped I guess maybe? The forks are definitely 40mm as ive just measured them with a pair of callipers to order some new seals. Road racing is more my field but thought I have a go at trials riding through the winter.......its all a bit new to me!!