glyph

Does anybody know where I can find the correct torque settings? For crank and clutch basket. Thanks peeps.

Just tried the crank seal from the external side of the crank case (flywheel side) and it went straight in =) Do the bearings need lubricating before putting into place?

Thanks for the advice Baldilocks, I noticed the clutch plate was easy to break Oh well, you live and learn I guess. I'm buggered if I can get the crank seals in now though. I've been trying from inside the crank case though. I'll have to get the clutch basket off and try from the other side.

What! there's a workshop manual? lol Well I'm nearly there. One main bearing is now replaced. I just cant seem to remove the crank now. After referring to the technical diagrams (Thanks swooshdave =)) I can see that I don't need to take the clutch off =) LMAO =) It should just come out now right? No? =S

Woohoo it's off =) more pics soon

On a more specific note: I'm in the process of prising the block apart, however, on the flywheel side, the crank doesn't seem to want to leave the housing. I've got the two halfs of the block this far apart: Click for larger image However, as you can see in this image, the crank doesn't seem to have left the housing: Click for larger image My initial thought is to get a hammer and knock the flywheel end of the crank back into the block but thought I'd ask you guys first. Or, perhaps the crank is meant to come off with this side of the block and needs to be undone from the other side? Which would mean removing this bolt and working from there right? Click for larger image Cheers guys.

Now with reference images: clicky clicky

Hi all This is my first bike so I'm looking for some enlightenment from some of you more experienced mechanics: I'm about to 'try' and change the main bearings on my 250cc 2000 Rev 3. I was hoping that one of you might be kind enough to spend a few minutes to give me a rough outline of the process involved. As I appreciate this might be a little time consuming, if this sounds like too much work, could you instead give me some pointers please? thanks, thanks and more thanks =) The engine is already off the bike with the head/top, flywheel, stator, carb

Ye Cheers Bilco, the groove in the flywheel seems sound. Looks as if it wasn't the woodruff after all then and I've knackered my stator for nothing Perhaps as Bob suggested; it was the timing, I

You can see the broken coils in this picture: Click for larger image. returning to the woodruff, looking at the picture, would you say it was fine, and therefore it was never the woodruff that was the problem? My first bike, so I wouldn't know what a brokemn woodruff looks like. To me that look fine if it only has the single purpose of aligning the flywheel.

Looking at my previous image you can see that the coils of wire have snapped. Probably my own doing when I was undoing the flywheel nut. Is it safe to try and start it up like that? Looking at the shaft I can see what looks like the remnants of a woodruff. Click for larger image To be honest, if it costs me another

Not a happy bunny Finally received my parts yesterday and got the flywheel off. It doesn't look good That thing with the coiled wires, is that the stator? And if so has anybody used these guys before? http://www.uk-motoplat.com/home.html Also, where would I find the woodruff key, if I can't see one does that mean it's disintegrated? Or do I need to delve further? Much appreciated guys And lasses

Well, considering I didn't know what 2-stroke meant until the other day I decided to dismantle the bike. get a better understanding of it and improve my ability to look after it. Anyway, the piston and bore look fine, a fair bit of carbon deposit on the top of the piston but nothing unusual. Bob, I'm about to take your advice and check the woodruff key but I'm not certain that I'm looking at the flywheel. I'm used to seeing flywheels with teeth, clutches and starters connected to them I think I'm on the right track: Click for larger image Before I proceed, am I going to bugger anything up trying to remove the flywheel this way, and do the four screws need to come out? Thanks for everyone

Hi all Took the engine off the bike today, I'm gonna check the woodruff and the piston and thought it would be easier to work on with the engine off. Is there anything else that you'd recomend doing whilst the engine's off? i.e. I've got some new petals sitting here doing nothing, would they be worth replacing? Cheers Glyph

That'll be why it's called a 2stroke then

That makes sense. Which also coincides with what Bob said in another post: So... Clean it. Check it. Pull it apart to dry. Put it all back together again. Trial it. Clean it. Check it. Pull it apart to dry. Put it all back together again. Trial it. Clean it. Check it. Pull it apart to dry. Put it all back together again. Trial it. Clean it.....

Spoke too soon Took it out, to see if she was running O.K. When I let off the clutch it wants to drive backwards! Tried it in 1st 2nd and 3rd but just wants to go backwards!!! Is there a secret reverse switch or something that I don't know about What's the chance that the piston has started pushing the crank round in reverse?

She Lives!!! Seems O.k. as far as my eye with limted experience can tell. Ticks over fine, seems to rev O.K. No more backfiring See what you think: (203kb requires quicktime) www.glyndavidson.co.uk/Downloads/MOV00012.3gp Sound O.K. to you? Just put a new mix in and off she went

Doh! Cheers for the info guys. Shouldn't be a big step from car engines to bike engines right? had a quick look over the externals of the engine, am i right in thinking that because there are no valves to hit the piston, that the piston itself does the same job as a valve would do in a car engine? i.e. when then piston moves down the cylinder, petrol/air enter the cylinder, then the hole is closed again by the piston as it returns to TDC. If that's the case, the same must be said for the exhaust; Now I'm confused, air in --> piston --> air out whilst the piston is down what's to stop the air coming in from the carb shooting straight out the exhaust, and how the hell does it get compression? Sounds like another good excuse to take the "top off" and see what's going on Incidentally, I took the plug out today and all seams to be O.K. Drained the tank, including reserve About to go and replace my unleaded for super unleaded. Will let you all know how it goes.

For anybody following this post, THIS might help

Point taken

Hi, the manual on the Beta site is for the 2006 model. Does the same stand for the 2000 model in relation to what oils, coolants, mixture ratios etc to use? If not, does anybody know where I can obtain a manual for the 2000? Cheers Glyph

Went to the local dealer today to buy some oil. Told him the Make, Model etc and he recommended Castrol R2 Racing Synthetic 2-stroke oil, so at the mercy of the dealer i took his advice and bought that. About to go out and sort the bike, reading through the specs on the back of the oil, it says suitable for ratios up to 50:1, so I'm guessing this is no good and my local dealer doesn't know much about these bikes? He also suggested using 75w for the gearbox/clutch, but reading through the manual on the Beta website, they recommend 20w40 for the 2006 model. Is this the same for the 2000 model or should I listen to the dealer and go with the 75w? As this is a little off topic, I've started a new one: Click here: What oils and additives do you use? Cheers guys (and gals)

Hi All I'm just wandering what oils, additives etc you all use on your Betas. I've just bought a 2000 Beta Rev 3 270cc and have found inconsistent suggestions as to which i should be using. hopefully you seasoned pro's will be able to put me down the straight and narrow <edit>Additives</edit>

O.K. so one reason is because it looks better? personally I think they look more authentic covered in *****, like it does what it's meant to do, rather than sitting a garage looking all sparkly like it's never been used. Second reason, you can see if everything is O.K. Won't you be able to tell that just from riding it? I guess you could perhaps see a problem earlier and prevent it getting any worse.