SherToPina
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Hello redandwhitebri, Were you able to solve your Alpina 350 M116 lighting/wiring/coil problem since November? I have an Alpina 350 M213 with similar brake light problem, and would be interested in what was discovered, and how it was fixed. Cheers, Gabe
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faussy's suggestion is spot on, and can be a lot more robust and easier than my suggestion of a repair at the failure site. (Seal off the exposed broken wire at the CDI with non conductive epoxy or RTV.) Grounding (earthing) the mag-coil power-in spade terminal will kill the spark. Remove the female spade terminal wire from the HT coil and cut off the female terminal. Strip the end of the Power Wire, and strip the end of the Kill Wire. Twist the wires together and crimp into a fresh female spade terminal. This repair is very robust, permanant, and is good enough for flight (I mean stop).
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It is my first post, I just joined a couple days ago looking for a Bultaco M213 Alpina Owners Manual. bullylover is helping me out. Read my story in my profile. My tips come from being a retired aerospace engineer, mind you the repair I described would NOT fly, but failure analysis, and "failure is not an option" are inbred... Cheers Gabe
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Your repair options are limited, so craftsmanship in the repair will count. Can you pick at the epoxy or plastic around the broken wire with sharp pick or blade? If so try to make a pocket around the repair area. Get a piece of tin coated copper buss wire (or cut the lead off a resistor or cap) at an angle to make a sharp point, Jab this solid copper wire into the center of the broken wire strands using needle nose pliers for a firm straight push. With a clean (wipe on wet paper or sponge) soldering iron wet the tip with solder and apply to the joint. Add a tiny amount of solder as needed, you just want to anchor your work. Do this very quickly so as to avoid heat damage down the wire into the CDI. Slide a 1" long piece of heat shrink tubing way up onto your kill wire. With about a 1/4" of new stub exposed, apply your kill wire over the stub, and again quickly solder the butt-splice, trying to avoid melting the base joint you just prepared. Now slide the heat shrink tubing down over the repair and shrink it as you push the tube against the base. Using the pocket you dug, apply non-conductive epoxy around your repair creating a nice fillet for support. Try to fasten down the kill wire, with a slight bend for some flexibility, near the repair. Should be good to go (and stop!).
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When I was 15 years old, I had a 1969 Bultaco M30 Sherpa S 100. Now 50 years later, for my 65 B-day, I found a 1977 M213 Alpina 350. That's why I'm SherToPina. (Gabe)
Stored 40+ years, the bike only had 348 miles on the OD. I am one lucky guy! Totally flushed and cleaned, runs almost excellent; will change crankshaft seals, tune Mag, clean wiring... fix that brake light...
I am in awe of the balance and skill of Trials riders, and also of the knowledge and dedication of so many members here on this site, from all over the world!
I realize I am just a temporary steward of the incredible machine that fell into my lap, and it's with help from folks such as yourselves that I'll be able to maintain and protect this bike as it continues its journey.
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Good to hear back from you,
not sure if my bike pic is goin to show ?
I live near Coffs Harbour NSW, where are you ?
Cheers,
Clint.
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Hi Clint,
I believe you call it "Across the Pond". I live in the mountains north of St George, Utah, USA. Originally from California Bay Area, but moved about 8 years ago. California got too crazzy. My first bike when I was a kid was a Sherpa S - Scrambler, a motocross enduro bike I'd say. Only 100cc, (with 250 gearbox - always wondered about swapping a bigger barrel and piston) but the previous owner had fitted a huge 80 tooth sprocket on it, I guess trying to slow it and torque it up for trials? Anyway, it kept us kids from going too fast, or stalling it. You can see the big sprocket in my emoji.
My "new" bike is the "Alpina" 350, better suited for (fatman) mountain trail riding, which is what I do. It certainly can do trials and enduro as well. Your Yamaha looks brand new! A very nice find!
Cheers, Gabe
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Hi again Clint,
I assumed you were in England, and when I looked up Coffs Harbor I realized it was that other "Pond". Wow that is an absolutely beautiful area, Well done! The hills remind me of Napa CA, and the coast of Santa Barbara CA.
My family is Hungarian, and when my folks left Hungary in 1956 they wound up in California, but my Mom's brother and his wife went to Melbourne. My aunt there is in her 90's, with my cousin, about my age. My son, now 30, went on a school trip there when 18 for an "educational" tour and volunteer work for 6 weeks from Melbourne to the North Coast and back a different way. Some small renovation projects at small isolated schools, and also an Aboriginal village school. Small word huh?
In the past couple of weeks while looking for an Aplina Owners Manual (or copy), I've paid a guy in Spain 60 Euros to photograph the inside of a vintage Bultaco-Montesa-Ossa "Points & Timing Tester" he was selling for US$1,250. (It was nothing but an AC step-down transformer, an on-off switch, light, and test lead jacks. A simple continuity tester can do the same thing!!!), chatted with "bullylover", also in Australia I think, who tends a flock of 30-50 Bultaco's, and I've talked on the phone with staff at "In Motion" in England whom copied a few pages of this and that for me, ordered an out of print 2001 Book: "Bultaco - A Passion for the Sport" from Spain, am in an email chat with a couple of Motoplat refurbishment shops, one in England, one in USA, three vintage Bultaco shops in the USA; CA, OK, & NY, one of which got me a 2nd edition copy of the Alpina Parts Catalogue (GOLD - it's just like a Rosetta Stone) and finally, when I first bought the bike, and before I flew to Vancouver British Columbia to pick it up, I ordered a 1977 Shop Manual from New Zealand!
Why all this work? I am trying to figure out why it takes 10-20 kicks to start cold, and only 1 to start warm. Bike and Carb are all flushed and pristine. Good spark, good fuel. Recommendations from two sources are to replace the "hardened" crankshaft seals (kit of stuff, along with contacts and condenser, arriving today), AND to tune the magneto, which was always my intension from day 1. I want to do a full examination and test of the condenser and all 5 coils in the mag, and since it was a new 1977 and rare model magneto used on only three bikes; M210 Matador, M212 Alpina, M213 Alpina, it did not make it into the last 1977 all 5-Speed Models Service Manual. BUT it should be in the 1977 Alpina Owners Manual. So I am the squirrel searching for the elusive acorn. I do not want to pull the magneto to change the seals until I have documentation for the unique magneto I have. I do not want to accidentally "lose" the problem until I know what to look for.
A little ol' 2-stroke. No big deal right?
Cheers, Gabe
