cg125

Short answer: Your first friends are right. If it's less than 750Kg you're OK. Longer answer: If the trailer does not exceed 750Kg MAM (Maximum authorised mass - that's the maximum it's permitted to weigh when fully loaded, not necessarily its actual weight) then you only need a Category B licence (that's your standard car licence). If the trailer has a MAM over 750Kg then you need a B+E licence Anyone who passed a car test before 1 January 1997 automatically gets B+E entitlement. Anyone else has to take the trailer test to upgrade theit licence from B to B+E Google is your friend: http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/Drive...cles/DG_4022564

Talking of which, I need a new fron tyre for my Rev 3. Any suggestions?

I've just started, and have joined Worthing who have been very friendly and helpful. They might not be your closest optiong though.

Now looking smart again with a number plate from BVM. That's the sort of maintenance that I like -- no tools required, just two cable ties. Excellent next-day service from BVM by the way.

Thanks, that should do the job nicely. I'll probably pretend that I'm going to make one for a week or so, then order one in a panic before the next trial!

I smashed the headlight surround on my 04 Rev 3 yesterday. I'm not bothered about having a light, but I do need a replacement panel to go in its place. Any suggestions about what to get and where to get it? Thanks!

Occasionally I've noticed some of the more serious competitors making minor "modifications" to sections as they walk the course. Things like removing small branches that might be in the way, kicking rocks out of the way etc. Doesn't worry me in the slightest at the moment as the only person I'm competing against is myself, but I just wondered whether this normal and and if it's lawful?

I'm pretty sure that the web site is wrong. There are a few cars that are not EC Type Approved for towing (eg Ford Ka and the Audi TT coupe). If that was the case for the Punto then no professional towbar company would fit a towbar to one. And as far as I know, the maximum nose weight is only an issue if you are actually towing. Anyway, it all worked fine today and drives without any problem.

In my (very limited) experience that's wise advice anytime you haven't started the bike for more than about 30 minutes!

Looks like I'll be sticking the bike on the back of the little car then! Thanks.

Anyone tried a rack on a small car like a Fiat Punto? What do you reckon? Ta!

Well, according to this article http://www.dirtbikerider.co.uk/content_dat...beta_rev3/index the Rev 3 200 is actually 124cc! They also say that the 125 is actually 195cc, so I think they might have got mixed up . . . Where do you get the 162cc figure from?

Are indoor trials run to different rules to outdoor trials? Sorry if this sounds like a stupid question, but I am a clueless n00b after all! Are indoor trials looked down upon by traditional trials riders? After all, there seems to be a lot of big steps and hopping involved. Is it effectively a different sport entirely?

I seem to have found a system that works for me now, using two ratchet straps. One goes from the middle left fixing point, through the one on the back of the upright, and fastened onto the point on the putside of the rack by the back wheel. The other one goes from this point, through the headstock and down to the middle right fixing. I compress the suspension a bit before I tighten the ratchet, but I don't go mad on it. The left handlebar grip touches the windscreen, but because the bike is held reasonably firmly it dosn't bang into it. I'll try to remember to take some pictures next time . . .

Ta! Rode consistently badly, frightened a couple of observers (sorry!) and generally had a good time

Just checking Ideally all of us clueless newbies would have experienced mates who could look a bike over for us before we buy it. In the real world though, most of us just have to take a punt and hope it works out. Sounds like Flossie was unlucky and got an expensive lesson about what to look look out for when you buy a used bike. Hope this year is better! Once again though, it's nothing to do with Ebay, and nothing to do with looking at a bike before you buy it -- if you don't know what you're looking at it doesn't make much difference . . .

Here's an update if anyone is interested. I took the bike to Mike at Motomerlin to have it checked over and serviced. He found quite a few bits that needed attention, but nothing too major. On top of the normal service bits it needed new pads and a rear wheel bearing, as well as a kill switch. The throttle body was cracked, so that was replaced too. All this for what seems to me a very reasonable

fatboy I'm in pretty much the same situation as you, except a few weeks ahead. Did my first trial a couple fof weeks ago: http://www.worthingtrialsclub.com/_sgt/m5mj_1.htm (pictures 140 and 164) Bike Beta 200. I'm not small, but it seems fine so far (not that I've put it to any real test!). Essentials Helmet - Hebo (don't know if it's especially good or bad, but at

Why? I'm a clueless newbie, but it sounded like a pretty good compromise to me.

Steve Saunders sells some. I haven't tried them yet, but they have been recommended to me. http://www.saundersextremesports.co.uk/radycool.html

Sound advice. Nothing to do with Ebay though!

Or alternatively the moral of your tale is "You may as well buy off Ebay, as it's no better if you pay the extra money to buy from a dealer!"

Buying off Ebay is no different to buying privately anywhere else. If you wouldn't buy a bike unseen out of TMX or MCN, don't buy it unseen off Ebay. It's not rocket science! I've used Ebay to buy and sell quite a few things including cars, a boat and a motorbike with no hassles. There are lots and lots of really good people buying and selling all sorts of stuff on Ebay. There are some crooks as well though so you do need to be sensible. Check sellers feedback. See if they have sold items as well as bought them. Have they done any substantial deals before, or is it all bits and pieces? How long have they been registered? For instance someone who has only been registered a few weeks, racked up 20 positives by buying biros and washers for a few pence each, and is now selling a bike would worry me. If you've got your wits about you you'll often be able to spot a scam, and if you don't feel comfortable about a particular auction for any reason then just don't bid. Contact the seller and see how they respond. Are they helpful or evasive? Ask for a phone number. If it's a long way away, try to get a local to give it the once over for you -- maybe someone here lives nearby for instance. Paying by Paypal can give some protection, but I wouldn't rely on it. If the seller has a verified address though at least you'll know where to send the County Court claim if it really goes horribly wrong! As you may have seen in anther thread I have just bought my Beta off Ebay, from someone 350 miles away without even contacting the seller. It was the bike that I was looking for, the price was good (but not too good to be true), and nothing set any alarm bells ringing, so I hit the "Buy it now" button and paid via Paypal straight away. I was taking a calculated risk, but I was pretty confident that it would be OK and it was. There are definitely good deals to be done by contacting sellers whose bikes haven't met the reserve. Use the advanced search on completed auctions and you'll often find plenty of possibles. Bear in mind though that if someone regularly completes their sales outside Ebay then they may be leaving a trial of unhappy customers without receining any negative feedback. "Buyer beware" definitely, but I certainly wouldn't write Ebay off.

I emailed Stuart at Autobars and this is what he says: "the straps supplied I have used for 18 yrs, the same set and have travelled all over Europe. People using ratchet type ones just keep on ratcheting,, then faults develop with the fork seals etc. Believe me your bike will move, but it wont come off." but if I do that the bike will go through the rear window . . .