peterb

The gudgeon pin should be a sliding fit inside the little end bush. You should be able to ease out the ID of the bush for a slide fit using an adjustable reamer, very carefully so as to maintain the correct alignment. Usually, pushrods have a ball bearing at one end or both, to allow for clutch drum rotation, maybe you can make up a carrier that incorporates a 5 or 6mm diameter ball bearing. Bye, Peter B.

MOTS trials tops are rather loose for the size I find, an XXL top would be a comfy, loose fit for your size. MOTS pants are not quite so generous, an XXL size being approx 36-38 inch waist equivalent. Bye, Peter B.

You could fit a 1L Hebo or similar type fuel tank to the forks in between the yokes (triple clamps) if this is going to be enough for the event. Bye, Peter B.

Hallo Ludi, Dein Englisch ist nicht so schlecht, aber ich muss auf Englisch schreiben. It's been a long time since I stripped a GG motor, but I think the seal you are talking about is only accessible from the inside of the crankcase, so the motor has to be completely stripped to remove the crankshaft. I made a drift to push the seal in square as it is quite easy to install the seal at an angle. When you re-assemble the main bearing into the left casing, you have to align the oil hole on the bearing with the oil drain inside the casing, best to use a marker pen to show where the holes should line up when fitting the bearing. Clutch has to be removed, I think the gear shafts stay in the right case, as does the crankshaft when splitting the cases, there are no shims to worry about except for the one on the top of the kickstart shaft. That crankcase seal will have to be a hi temp viton, neoprene will not do. Good luck, Peter B.

The 2016/2017 bikes had only one actual map. The 4 select function was set up to provide the fuel/air ratio as a bit richer than standard, a bit more richer and then a leaner ratio on the 4th position for high altitudes such as up in Andorra or up in't Dales. Bye, Peter B.

Main jet 115, pilot 35, std throttle slide (60 I think) std needle D36, clip on second notch from the bottom, not sure about the throttle needle jet called an emulsion tube in the parts books, either a 270K or a 268K, can't remember. Std main jet is too rich at 122 or 120, sometimes went to a 112 to get the motor to rev out, but that depends on the bike and where you are riding. Bye, Peter B.

Hi James, quite a few issues there. The hydraulic clutch system on the older GG's are synthetic DOT 4, was the AJP master cylinder that you bought kitted out for mineral oil or for DOT 4, ie: does it have a black or green cap. What type of hydraulic oil did you use to fill the actuating system. You need DOT 4. The slave kit that you replaced, did this include a piston with seals. Sometimes the ball bearing from an old piston is pushed back into the piston and does not allow the slave piston to fully dis-engage the clutch. Did you fit the slave piston return spring. As oni asked, is the clutch pushrod ball bearing in place, it can be easily left out. For years and years on the older GG motors, we always used ATF rated to Dexron III, it's low cost, works well and does not create any clutch drag. 600ml is fine on these engines. Bye, Peter B.

Yikes! Forehead kissing is not allowed in NZ, tis only for Orcs and Hobbits' Outer length is the sheath, or casing. The inner length is the multi-strand cable, the inner cable, with a nipple centre to centre of 1090mm. (OK then, the overall cable length) Bye, Peter B.

Clutch cable info: Outer length = 980mm, inner length = 1090mm nipple centre to centre. Nipples (2) 9.86mm diameter, 9.86mm long. Bye, Peter B.

Follow this link to a 1993 Key-Roo parts manual http://www.fantic.no/partcat/Fantic K-roo 250 93Mod.pdf Let me know if the link does not work, I pulled it up as a PDF file. Will have a search for the clutch cable in the morning. Bye, Peter B.

I have a 1991 K-Roo project bike that I can measure the clutch cable length, inner/outer and nipple diameters if this helps. I might find a link to a manual, but need to look first. If the clutch will not disengage, then the plates are very likely stuck together probably due to lack of use and will need to be stripped and cleaned. Gearbox oil is fine with ATF Dexron III, I don't know the quantity yet. Bye, Peter B.

What oni nou said, you need the con-rod, pin and bearing. Any wear on the big end usually affects the con-rod bearing surface, the pin and the rollers. Either your bike is really old, has had a lack of oil or has been drowned in water which has settled for a while for the big end to wear, not the norm on later day bikes for big ends wearing out. Bye, Peter B.

The original clutch plates on the older GG motors used a water based adhesive for the fibres. When water got into the gearbox/clutch area, either when the bike was drowned (or ridden in the Scott) or when the water pump seal let go, then water entered the gearbox area and formed an emulsion, which if not quickly drained and replaced with new ATF oil would cause the fibres to become unstuck. You are absolutely fine with using ATF rated to Dexron III, 600ml is fine for the older motors. Used this for well over 25 years now. (not on the same bike mind you) New original plates are no longer available, but the Sureflex ones are fine. Bye, Peter B.

I have both original Bultaco silencers at home, the bigger one is definitely quieter and feels as though there is more low end power with this unit. The slimline "banana" silencer sounds good but the performance is less on a 325 Sherpa. Bye, Peter B.

Hi drca, you can access the 2 O rings from the outside. Just need to remove the gearbox sprocket circlip, sprocket then use pliers to twist and turn the sleeve directly behind the sprocket and remove the sleeve. Makes sense to make sure the weepage is not just from carb overflow first as lineaway mentioned. Bye, Peter B.

Yes you can. To get to the kickstart seal, tip the bike over to the left side and remove the clutch case, leaving the water pump hoses intact. Pry out the seal and replace. Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like the oil is weeping out from the gearbox output shaft. Invariably, it is not the seal that is passing, but rather one or both of the 2 O rings that are placed behind the output shaft sleeve. The output shaft has a push fit sleeve over it, that the oil seal runs on. The sleeve can be twisted and pulled off with pliers. Usually, one O ring comes away with the sleeve, inside a recess, the other O ring (25 x 1mm from memory) is likely on the shaft. This is usually the source for leaks, but definitely change the oil seal anyway, they don't cost much. Bye, Peter B.

I am pretty sure that the 250 has a smaller crankcase mouth than the 325, and that the 250 has a smaller BCD for the cylinder bolts so, fairly sure the swap will not work. Bye, Peter B.

G'day Dean, hope you can get the Porsche finished so you can have more time on the bike. Bye, Peter B.

No, do not disconnect the rotor bolts, and certainly not the brake hose. We always remove the disc plastic protector when removing the rear wheel, makes it easy to install. As you remove the wheel spindle/axle, hold the wheel with your right hand, unhook the chain over the sprocket and let it hang over the left side of the swinging arm, then swap hands, so now holding the wheel with your left hand with the wheel slightly higher than the axle holes, you can now remove the caliper from the top of the disc by gently wiggling it so it doesn't catch on the rotor bolts - you'll soon see what the guys mean, don't stretch the brake hose just be carefull there. With that M5 silencer bolt, once you have removed the broken piece there is enough aluminium around that area for the hole to take an M6 thread, just be carefull not to go too deep, measure the depth of the hole when you get the broken piece out - use a new drill bit for this, unless it is easily unscrewed. Bye, Peter B.

Hi chudder, the fan operates from a temp sensor in the coolant system. There is another temp sensor for the fuel/air calculation in the outlet of the airbox, it is quite delicate being a glass cased thermistor type, but these don't usually fail. Most problems are with the temp sensor connections, check these are not corroded or loose. This temp sensor is in a plastic push-in housing located through two rubber prongs ending up as a tight fit into the airbox outlet. You can remove the plastic case and very carefully clean the sensor with a tissue. You may need to take the bike to be checked out if this doesn't work. Bye, Peter B.

Have you checked for a spark? Is the plug sooty black? We run Ossas with spark plugs 2 heat ranges hotter, std plug from memory is an NGK BPR6ES, you can use an NGK BPR4ES, or better still, the Iridium equivalent. If the spark is ok, is the plug getting wet? Was the TPS set up when the new fuel pump and throttle body were fitted? Incidentally, why did you need a new throttle body. Bye, Peter B.

Been a year or two now since getting the motor out, was not a massive problem to get back in. As imex says, remove the reed block, tie the shock and swinging arm out of the way and remove the rear brake lever. Pretty sure I replaced the motor with the cylinder head off, yes it is tight to get at the cylinder head torx screws, but you can access them with a Beta Tools (from Italy, not the same as Beta bikes) torx key, they have a very short angled head to get at the screw plus have a ball end torx drive at the other end which comes in handy. I made a stand to drop the back end of the frame onto to make it easier to fit the motor in. Bye, Peter B.

The EP90 would create a lot of clutch drag. Best off using an ATF rated to Dexron III, 600ml is correct. The clutch case has "750ml" cast into it though 600ml was always sufficient. Bye, Peter B.

Hi Dan, I don't have the torque figures with me at present. The centre bolt is only an M5 cap screw with a vent hole drilled through so should not be overly tightened as they can be sheared off. Do not use a ball end allen key here. When assembling this, use a very small dab of loctite blue on the threads. The clutch adjustment is a 3 position spring pressure plate, standard setting is on 1, if your clutch begins to slip in the higher gears under load, then go to position 2. This adjustment would not cause a rattle. Is the noise a definate rattle, like a GG clutch? or is it a different noise, like something clicking or catching. Bye, Peter B.

Hi Dan, what year is the bike and roughly how many hours has the motor done? Vertigos are not unduly noisey from the clutch area, like say on a GG clutch, if the noise has become worse over time then either something has worn or come loose. Two areas to look at, the clutch centre bolt is an M5 like the GG, check this has not come loose. Behind the bolt is a machined washer, check the washer has not fractured from overtightening and "let go" The other possibility is the kickstart idle gear, this has a stub shaft that runs in a narrow needle roller, check this for play. Bye, Peter B.