peterb

Hi there, Std main jet on a Keihin on a 300 is too lean at 122, better with a 128. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Graham, Paul, GTX is certainly not the best solution for the gearbox oil on this bike. Best to drain the oil and either use a straight 10 weight mineral oil, or an ATF rated to Dexron III, 350ml. The rear brakes on most trials bikes are usually like what you describe, except when wet. It's all fine. Bye, PeterB.

Hi joandemma, If your bike is the older motor type, then you can remove 2 of the 6 clutch springs and fit packing washers under the remaining 4 springs to get a lighter pull. I did this on my 95 330 motor, without the washers the clutch would slip in 4th, it's all fine with the washers. Clutch pull is almost as light as a Pro now. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Andrewwww, Used to live in Nunthorpe, near Marton, rode in most of the East Yorks Centre events and Nationals. Was a lot of fun then, lots of good riders and heaps of laughs, good bunch of lads. We used to ride our bikes to the trials then, not rich enough to have a car. On Sunday's the petrol stations were closed in the country areas so we carried a gallon of petrol in a haversack to get back home - freezin in the winter. Ta ra, PeterB.

Hi John, Just as Tony put it, try shorting the thermoswitch to prove the fan is working, if not then very likely one of the field coils in the fan has open circuited, requiring a new fan. Give Peter a call! Ta ta, PeterB.

Hello Andrew from Stockton (on Tees), I used to live up near that way, I use a similar boiling water method -I think it's already posted previously somewhere on the GG forum, I like the rawl bolt idea, like a bearing puller. Anyway, for Andy, there is an aluminium sleeve in between the 2 rear wheel bearings, which has a lip that extends into the bearing ID for about 3mm. If you have access to a lathe, turn a scrap piece of 25mm dia steel bar down to a precise OD to fit into the sleeve with a square shoulder. After heating the aluminium hub with boiling water around the bearing housing, use the drift to tap out the bearing. The steel spacers usually prise out, if stuck then try a bearing puller or the rawl bolt (Sleeve anchor here) to remove. Ta ta, PeterB.

Buenos dias mecajental, !Bienvenido! Espero que tu y los motos estas bien. Lo siento, pero yo hablo solo un poco espanol. I was last in north west Spain in 1996, there are some wonderful country areas (Picos de Europa) looking much like some of the regions in NZ, what is the name of your town? Hasta luego, PeterB.

Hi skye, jimbo, It's rare for the Pro clutch to slip at all, only real cause for this is not just wear of the plates but can also be due to the clutch fibres coming adrift from their steel plates, possibly due to incorrect oil or water ingress at some stage. Happened on occasion to some of the older style GG motors where the plates would de-laminate. New clutch plate set would cure this. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Goldilocks, The HT coil and regulator must be firmly connected to the frame, make sure the ground (earth) connections are in place. Bye, PeterB.

Hello ageing from Powys - not many answers here for you! I have specs on a Marzocchi fork from the same era, try 7.5 weight fork oil, 280ml each leg. The book recommends a level measurement of 140mm when the fork is compressed, measured from the top, but try 280ml first. Bye, PeterB.

Best to get the ignition timing checked, it may be too advanced, firing too early and sending the piston down instead of allowing it to rotate beyond TDC. Bye, PeterB.

Yeay go Steve A, International trials star. Bit of hot off the press news now...... The inaugural extreme city enduro, organised by Chris B was held yesterday up in Auckland, with a free trip or entry into the upcoming Ausrtrian round for the winner I am told. Ex trials riders topped the results with a very chuffed Rory Mead taking the overall honours from Chris Birch, who had a few hold ups getting past fatigued, fallen riders. Worthy of mention was the two trial bike entrants who rose up through the many heats taking seconds and thirds to progress to the final no less. Well done to Paul Barnes for 6th overall and to Philip Shilton for I believe 7th spot, showed what you can do on a trials iron. Stacks of crashes kept the estimated 5,000 city crowd entertained, even through the bitingly cold southerly - I had to wear a jacket. Paul had a job getting up one of the wooden bridges that became very slippery with little run up, later on and had another off when he dabbed into a deep hole. The German enduro rider on his neat looking BMW finished up in the top 5, not confirmed at this stage. Even got about 15 secs coverage on the TV1 News. Ta ta, PeterB.

Hi coxy, The only times I have seen/known about Pro clutches being hard to pull in was when the clutch plates had swollen, altering the 10 finger lever height. And, one other time with a trapped clutch hose that was kinked from the factory, trapped behind the HT coil, a new hose fixed this though in this case the symptoms were that the clutch was ok to pull in but did not release as quickly as it should have (reduced cross sectional area in the hose not allowing the fluid to return quickly). So......... have a look at the clutch finger height when assembled, not necessarily the pack height, the determining factor for final clutch actuation is in the finger height - these act as levers pivoting on a fulcrum (the central ring on the clutch hub) and rely on the clutch pack being low enough to provide good mechanical advantage, a bit like a kids see-saw in a park. The finger height should be at least 17.0mm from the centre hub, if lower then the clutch pack is too high, as the clutch pack affects the opposite end of the fingers from their fulcrum - t'other end of the see-saw. You should easily be able to actuate the clutch release by pressing your thumb over the top of the levers, if the levers are parallel to the outer surface of the clutch hub, then they are definately too low, they should be sticking upward. Hope this helps. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Jon, 16000rpm, I am also not too sure on the 05 Raga, best to have a look at the ign system, if it is Ducati, then it has 4 programmes to select from for which you need a lap top, purchase software and a hook up cable. If it is Kokusan then there are 2 programmes available, rainy position - nice soft low end power, very controllable, then leave the two wires from the ECU as an open connection, sun shine position - snappy low end, cleaner carburation more zippy, then close these two wires together. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Jon, Thanks for the brief explanation, that's just what I was going to say! As for kevhenson's problem, it's not easy to define without listening. Usually, the kickstart idle gear creates a knocking noise when damaged (by a broken kickstart quadrant) but I don't know if these also produce a rumbling noise from being damaged, I don't think so - not sure. Clutch rumble from the primary gears does vary from bike to bike on the Pro's, I know the later bikes at least have supposed matched gear sets. Also, I found out from Mal in Oz that an awful gear whine noise that becomes apparrent when the bike is in gear and the clutch let out is attributed to slight damage on the primary gears - a new set is required to fix this. But this is a definate whine rather than a rumbling, the whine is in every gear and varies with engine speed, though not when in neutral. Ta ta, PeterB.

Hi guys, That's a first for this site I think, an all kiwi thread - bril. Brad, see if you can latch onto someone who rides trials in your area for going out practising with, best way to learn. Bye, PeterB.

Hi copemech, The clutch rattle on the Pro is due to the narrow, straight cut primary gears. Most motors have a wide primary gear and more so still, have a helical cut gear train which is generally very quiet. There is no fix for the gear rattle, just have to live with it. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Mark, Have a check to see if you have dropped/lost the ball bearing that sits between the clutch push rod and the mushroom rod. You need to tighten up the clutch springs but be careful as the bolts can snap easily. The outer pressure plate has a line cast into the outer face across one of the holes for the springs, this hole is then to align with a spring post that has a slot in it on the clutch hub - only for alignment purposes this is. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Tim, Give me a PM or an email, much to yarn about. Ta ta, PeterB.

Hello John, Please can you grab some footage of Ian Braithwaite, he's a Cumbrian lad who lives in NZ and is number 170, taken over another lad's entry who had pulled out, I'm pretty sure he is the only "Kiwi" riding this year. Thanks, PeterB.

Hello Ben, As Jon advised, strip out the needle valve and check for dirt under the valve seat, Remember to fit an in line fuel filter with these carbs as they have no internal filter. I guess you have the longer (inner) throttle cable too. Bye, PeterB.

Hi kwackerzack, Cope has a good point, best to post this on the Beta forum. White gearbox oil could be from a previous drowning (water getting sucked into the gearbox when the motor is hot and dropped in a stream) or from the water pump seal. I have not worked on a Beta before so am unable to advise on the history of parts wearing, also I don't know if the 08 motor uses the gearbox oil to lube the clutch side main bearing. Also, ask some of the lads at a local trial, they would be in the know. Bye, PeterB.

Hello gomey, I have an older model 325 Sherpa that is fitted with a roller bearing on the clutch side and a standard ball race on the ignition flywheel side, it has run like this for over 7 years and seems to be fine. I don't know the bearing number but it may be worth investigating. The roller has a heavier load bearing capability than ball race though no method for controlling end float. Bye, PeterB.

Hi kwackerzack, Could well be the main bearings have worn - at this stage in the bikes life it would be very likely due to having had the bike drowned in a stream at some stage and not cleaned out the water properly or soon enough. Then again, hard to tell without listening to it, ask a learned friend. As for your rear brake, you would be ok to use hot water from a kettle poured over the lever before bending back into shape, the aluminium work hardens very quickly so you may need boiling water 2-3 times when bending. Bye, PeterB.

I have the same play on my B40, it's not a problem. I don't have a thrust washer there either. Only problem I can think of is if the play is excessive then the primary chain may wear the edge off the basket teeth. Bye, PeterB.