peterb

Hi charlie, Can you explain a bit more about what the problem is, the info is not clear. Bye, PeterB.

That's understandable Big John, you can't get enough of those Bultaco's - proper bikes. I just got another 199 for a school project. In the 70's in North Yorks, there were a couple of brothers riding Dalesmen very successfully, can't remember their names but Brian Hutchinson would know them. They were really noisy too. Woody, I haven't worked on a Sachs motor to understand the gear selector mechanism, but if it is a barrel/drum selector I had a similar problem with a 93 GG that was traced to the selector drum having too much end float, not allowing the selector forks to correctly position the gears (as the drum would move in and out - endfloat) I fixed this by shimming out the endfloat and from there on it was all good. Bye, PeterB.

Hi rodmac, I have used the Hebo flywheel weight on my last 2 300 Ragas, it is 750 gms and makes the motor more user friendly down at low revs, bril up rocky creeks (ok then, burns). Don't know the price in the UK. You need to drill and tap 2 x M8 x 1.25 threads in the flywheel when fitting. It definately helps smooth out the low end. Also, you can fit a slow, black tube throttle and even fit 1 or 2 x 0.8mm base gaskets - don't like doing that though as it raises the exhaust port, but it does work. Biggest problem for me, is the gearing on the 08 bikes, even with a 10/42 the overall ratios are too high, it is like riding the 07 bike with 11/42. I am fitting a 9T on my 08 Raga (when it arrives), though as a few lads point out, a 9T sprocket is not too friendly with chain wear with a 520 chain, could go the other way and use a combination of 10/46 which is mechanically more suitable. Bye, PeterB.

Hi gasgas, On the PRO's through to 04, the main bearings were conventional type with separate crank seals, plus a sleeve that fitted over the crankshaft, From 2005, GG introduced new main bearings that have a wider outer race, this was to accommodate an integral crankshaft oil seal to make servicing easier - it does! The sleeves were no longer needed. Also, the new bearing has the old P/N and is machined to take an O ring on it's outer diameter and another (25mm dia) O ring on it's ID. It is best to buy the later GG supplied bearings as these are made for GG and probably not available through a bearing supplier. The newer bearings fit the older motors too (though you need to leave out the sleeves). Remember that you still have an extra (teflon) oil seal to fit in the mag side. The newer bearings are a very tight fit, I needed lots of heat from a heat gun before they would move freely from their housings. When re-fitting, there is a drain hole in the LHS crankcase bearing housing that must line up with the drain hole in the new bearing, this allows gearbox oil to flow freely through the LHS bearing. The RHS does not have any alignment issues. When buying the bearings, you must request the bearing, oil seal, outer O ring, inner O ring - all for one bearing. (Teflon seal for LHS is extra) Heat up the crankcase to assemble bearing, leave bearing in the freezer for an hour so that the bearing just drops in to position when fitting, make sure the oil bleed hole is aligned. Bye, PeterB.

When the mating tapers become corroded, I have used fine grinding paste with oil, then finished with Brasso to gently lap in the flywheel to the crank shaft. Don't lap in for too long, as there is a difference in the two tapers of approx 1 degree to allow the tapers to lock together. I have done this on many bikes over the years, from Villiers through to Gas Gas motors, never been a problem and stopped the flywheel from breaking loose on the taper. Bye, PeterB.

Hi B40RT, That ball v/v in front under a big hex nut is the pressure non return valve, the scavenge one is under the bottom of the crankcase accessable under the little plate held on with 4 studs, may be accessable between the bottom frame tubes, mine is. This is more likely to be the problem. Having the motor at TDC overnight may be just aligning the oil pump in a best postion to help prevent the oil draining through/past the NRV, it would still be the NRV that is the problem. Need to be stripped out, cleaned and gently re-seated with a tap. Bye, PeterB.

Hi B40RT, By wet sumping do you mean the sump is filling up with engine oil as the bike stands overnight? If so then the oil must be passing through a non return valve of sorts, usually a ball bearing held onto a seat by a spring. Sometimes, this ball bearing requires a tap to assist it to seat properly, or there may be dirt under the seat. I haven't stripped the motor down on my own B40 yet so am only speculating. Just had a quick look, there is a pressure non return valve and a scavenge non return valve, both ball bearing types. My guess is the scavenge NRV which is located in the sump housing at the bottom of the motor. This should prevent returning oil from draining back into the motor from the oil tank. Remove, inspect clean and refit, may need tapping to seat properly. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Jon, You beat me to this one! I was just going to suggest that the woodruff key may have already been sheared as there should be approx 3mm sticking out proud from the shaft when fitted. I just had this problem with my project 330 bike. I ended up lapping in the flywheel to the shaft using a fine grinding paste and oil and used a new key, all ok. Make sure that the crankshaft nut has the correct locking washer fitted or the nut can vibrate loose with high revs. Bye, PeterB.

Hi jsp, I have ridden 2 trials and a practice on the new bike so it is getting bedded in, which alters carburation a bit. Just to answer your questions: 1) Yes, turn in the air screw all the way in first, then back off 1 full turn for an initial setting. 2) Yes, use a clear plastic in line fuel filter. 3) Use the same fuel/oil mix. 4) Only use a mineral oil, 10 weight or an ATF rated to Dexron III (auto transmission fluid) change when warm. 5) My 300 came with 42/11, usually 42/10 is great but on this year model, the gearing is still way too high for me, I will be fitting a 9T. The 06 300 was fine with 42/10. I'd definately use a Hebo weight on the 300, don't like a slow action throttle - rider preference. Riding up my favourite rocky creek, the bike feels a little stretched out compared to the 06 model, measuring footrest to f/wheel axle and comparing to an 06 bike is pretty well much the same, perhaps 5mm farther back. As per the 06 bike, the std carb set up is too lean on the needle and at the top end, I bored out the main jet to approx 126 from 122 and felt that this was ok through the rev range. I now have a very small range of Keihin jets that I will try out, starting with a 130 main. (std is 122 main, 45 pilot needle on 2nd clip from bottom type JJH) Will advise more as I get more time. Bye, PeterB.

Hi kdub, We did this to a friends bike about a year ago, made up a flywheel puller, it's on pretty tight. Behind is the stator plate fixed with 2 or 3 phillips type screws, equally tight, replace with low profile allen head (socket screw) screws. Mark the original position, then rotate the plate clockwise to advance ignition, you can try moving 3mm from the original spot and see how that feels. Make sure the flywheel is on tight after. If you need more response, weigh the flywheel, if it is close to 3 Kg it would be a standard weight, you can turn the outer surface down to reduce weight to 2,800 gms or a minimum of 2,650 gms for a snappy motor. Bye, PeterB.

Hi gasgas1, After doing all of those things that Jon suggests, particularly with respect to the possibility of a sheared flywheel key, it may be the HT coil/ign unit has expired. These are the same as fitted to quite a few bikes of that era, a Ducati system. After all the previous checks, you can try a friends unit if possible, to check out. The other area to look at is the trigger unit on the stator plate, this is the same as supplied to Vespa and is not available as a separate part through GG, but is a Vespa part, I think it is called a G200 and goes straight in/on - if not G200, it is very similar and not expensive. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Mike, Would be good to have a look at it the next time we are at the same venue, you never mentioned that it wasn't going well at the last trial. On the 125 motor, there should be plastic crankcase padding installed under the cylinder, in the mouth of the crankcase. Have a look under the barrel, you can leave the head on, it is a white plastic moulded piece. Bye, PeterB.

Thanks for that Jon, I do appreciate your pearls of wisdom in defining technical oddities. When I first saw the old 250 cylinder I thought the plating had gone off, with the surface finish looking as it did. A new cylinder had an identical bore. I had heard of electrofusion but did not know how this was applied, wonder how the plating could be made to be uniform, or was it later bored/honed? Bye, PeterB.

Bonjour Edouard, The Wellington area have a strong trials club called Ixion MCC - Google it. There is a calendar with events on there. Next big event is the 3 day Nationals in Alexandra over Labour weekend. Should be a few club trials on before then. Let me know if you need a contact person in the area, I can PM you the guy's phone number. What part of Wgtn are you in? Bye, PeterB.

Hi Nick, I have a 250 version sitting in the garage that we rebuilt last year as a school project. It is a 1989 model, the aire 325 will be from the same era. I'll get Tim to upload a photo to the site for you. The motor is an early Gas Gas based on a Villa unit, from Italy. Big clunky gears, thick sandcast housings, it's all very sturdy. The piston is the same as the much later 321, but no longer available from Mahle, S3 produce them now though fairly dear - available via your GG importer - if you live near Ilkley (Moor?) then best first point of call would be White Bros in Darlington. Clutch plates don't match the 321 motor but you can make them fit with a little filing out as the tabs are slightly different. The cylinder bore is an early plated design, may be nickel/silicon, it has lots of porous looking pin holes but this is a standard finish. Mahle piston rings will fit, the old Bultaco 325 rings can be adapted to fit, 1st or 2nd oversize but only the thinner of the pair of rings. Rear linkage bearings from a 95 model can be used, same for brake pads. Forks are 35mm Marzocchi's, seals and bushes are still available. The bike rides well, is pretty heavy, gear ratios are fine, footrests are way too high and forward, try to relocate these as low and as far back as possible with wider, Hebo type footrests. There are no workshop manuals, ask in the forum if you come up with a problem, it's an easy motor to work on. Motoplat ign works ok but has gone out of business. Crankshaft oil seals are the same as the 95 bike. Great thing with this bike is that it has a seat that is close to being comfortable, also the airbox is quite waterproof. Carb is a scabby little 25mm DellOrto, tightly squeezed in, would be better with a 26 if there is room. Bye, PeterB.

Get a Michelin from White Bros, can't go wrong. Bye, PeterB.

Hi mc, The kickstart is held on with a cotter pin, it is a round bar shape with a taper flat machined along it's length, the nut tightens the kickstart in against the kickstart shaft. To remove, remove the nut and knock out the pin with a suitable drift. Try some penetrating oil poured in to the top of the piston overnight and maybe use a heat gun (like an industrial version of a hair drier) to warm up the outer surface of the cylinder then tap gently with a large wooden block as a drift, on the top of the piston. This may shock the piston loose. When you get to the clutch, you'll need a special imperial thread puller for the clutch centre, can't remember the thread but I have one here, I think there is a website in the UK with this relevant info - saw it in a previous BSA posting. Bye, PeterB.

Enduro and moto cross motors work harder and are used a lot more up the rev scale than trial motors over a long period of time, hence the extra oil required. I consider 80 or 100:1 too lean for trials motors and always recommend 50:1 be it synthetic or mineral oil for the 2T mix, bit old fashioned there, I like to know there is sufficient oil in the motor. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Steveo, My previous bike was a 2006 Raga 300 with Ohlins shock, which I thought was just bril. In comparison to this bike, the 08 300 Raga has a stronger pulling motor with pretty well spot on carburation from the box. Air screw out one full turn, fine on the bottom picks up very clean with a slightly weak mixture after 1/4 throttle. I didn't have enough time before the event to set up perfectly and they usually richen up after breaking in anyway. Fitted an inline fuel filter as there is no filter on the Keihin. Motor feels very torquey, much more so than the 06 model. A couple of other GG riders had a go and gave it the immediate thumbs up after just a few seconds on the bike, it does pull well. Gearing with 10/42 is too high for me, too quick up the creeks (becks) in bottom, it feels like the older bike with an 11/42. Gear ratios feel closer together 1 through 4 and it doesn't have such a large clunk from 4th to 5th. Will try a 9/42 combination soon. The exhaust note is quieter than the 06 and still sounds a treat, music to my ears. Steering lock is less then the 06, due to the plastic frame protector, I'll take this off. Forks are the Sachs GG 40mm with steel stanchons. The action felt better than the 06 and the front end didn't feel any heavier than the older bike. I understand that GG will have aluminium alloy stanchons on later bikes, don't know when. Standing position did feel slightly different with footrests a little farther back and lower, it was all good. The back end has a Sachs shock, still a bit new for a proper comparison as these take quite a while to soften up, but it be hard pressed to equal the Ohlins which is initially very soft and then still ok for the bigger rocks. I had just weighed a new 2008 300 std bike with oil, water and no fuel, 34 Kg front, 35 rear. Unfortunately when I weighed the Raga, I had already fuelled up with approx 2 litres, approx 1,600 gms and fitted a flywheel weight, 750 gms. The Raga was the same weight as the std bike front and rear which would place it at about 66.65 Kg without fuel and weight. Well thats about all, the over-riding feature was the torquey power delivery from the motor, just brilliant. I like the new frame, looks pretty and didn't get in the way, would prefer to hide the HT coil away but there is less room under the headstock than previous. Bye, PeterB.

I agree with Williamd, I have an Italian book on Fantic, by Giulio Mauri that lists the FM350 as a 1980 Fantic 200. If you are interested, there are various specifications for oil type/quantity and lots of other stuff. Bye, PeterB.

Tim was so awe struck with the bike that he forgot that it was a 08 Raga model, or maybe he couldn't get over my jumper. That's my best Val Doonican jumper - what's wrong with it? Mum got it for me from Burton's the tailor in the 'boro and it was in the 80's. It's true, I have heaps of Magnum PI shirts. Who's Ringo? Just adding the flywheel weight and checking the carb, installing a fuel filter, removing lights, fitting old fashioned cross brace Renthall's, checking gearbox mount, fitting a 10T, noticed the rear spkt is 42T unlike the 41T on std bikes for 08, fitting the frame anti-scuff cover properly with a heat gun and waterproofing the airbox, then it were time for dinner. Will fire it up tonight as it's off to the final 2 rounds of the North Island Champs on the weekend and must get it going proper like. Ta ta, PeterB.

Hi ssdt1980, Was that the last time you rode the Scottish? I have fixed a few clutch sticking problem bikes over the years that have not responded to using an ATF or 10 weight mineral oil. Strip out the plates, have a look on the steel plates to see the ring where the fibre plates rub, in the centre of this ring, drill a series of 6mm dia holes in a radial fashion, about 5 or 6 will do per plate but be sure to ease off the burrs with a countersink bit after drilling, on both sides. Do this to all of the steel plates - that is assuming that the clutch has steel and fibre plates. This prevents the fibres from sticking - saves weight too! Ta ta, PeterB.

Hi Rob, You can always use a standard allen head bolt, M8 x 1.25 (Thread pitch) 40mm long (or whatever length) then just turn down the allen head for extra clearence. To get the pistons out next time, it's always best to pump these out first with the hydraulic pressure otherwise, you can use a small lathe 3 jaw chuck to grip the inside of the piston to draw this out. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Glenn, When I were a lad in the UK, I had a Villiers 37A Sprite with std round barrel. It was very heavy. I looked at the 2 Sprite photos for a while and still couldn't see the support frame tube, can't remember now but I think there were either two frame tubes going from the footrest area to under the back of the tank area, or one single tube, not showing up on your photos. Steep fork angle, they were quite a bit more raked out at the front. Tim - Ken Sedgley built up the B40 that's in my bike shed. Bye, PeterB.

Hi jsp, You can only use a mineral oil in the gearbox, 10 weight or an ATF rated to Dexron III. I spend ages on a new bike, carefully prise off the seals from the wheel bearings and pack out with water proof grease then re-fit the seal covers, drop out the triple clamps and grease the taper head stock bearings, strip out the entire linkage and re-grease, check the bottom gearbox mounting bolt (10mm dia) slides out easy, sometimes they are forced in stressing the motor mounts. If not a sliding fit, drill out the engine mount through the frame with a 10mm dia drill bit. Go over the air box to seat unit connection with a good silicone sealant. Biff the awful 8mm head bolts from the fork leg bottom spindle clamps and fit allen head bolts with grease, use a very close fitting 8mm 6 point socket to remove. Run in for 8 hours. Is it a Raga or std, what size motor?That'll do for a start, time to go. Bye, Peter.