peterb

You don't often see that anymore, lads walking up Darlington high street with a washing up bowl. He's a really good bloke that Al isn't he. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Boner, All of what Jon said and this........do not run the bike till you get the sticking throttle fixed. May be a frayed throttle cable at either end, normally at the throttle. Dirt in the throttle slide area waould cause scoring of the slide and body, have a really close look, clean out if scored and use P600 or P1000 emery to ease of any high spots on the slide. Bye, PeterB.

Hi there, I usually re-fill with 700 ml of either a mineral 10 weight, or an ATF rated to Dexron III. Dump the oil when hot as any suspended particles can be drained out, rather than letting any foreign matter settle when cold. Don't use any synthetic here. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Paul, Thanks for the M'bro link, I see Nipper (John) Pattinson is still riding, in a new pair of overalls. He used to win club trials when I started off, was always a good rider and always wore overalls. Some names there I recognize like Garbutt and Foulkes but with different first names so I guess they are the sons of the guys I used to know. Dale? is this Peter Dale? The stuff you would have seen on Lord of the Rings would mostly be in the South Island, vast areas of trials delight and pretty accessible too. Our NZ title will be down that way this year, in the deep south of the South Island held over 3 days on Labour weekend (like a UK Bank Holiday) in Alexandra. This has stunning scenery and sandpaper grip like rocks. Would be ok for World Rounds there. It's a long way there for us lads in Akl, about 8 hrs drive to Wellington, catch a ferry for the 3 hour trip to the South then about an 11 hour drive to Alex.....loooooong way - that's why I'm flying! Ta ta, PeterB.

Hi Steve, Paul, I used to be in the M'boro and then the Guisborough club back in the late 70's and remember the area well. Pity about Woodhouse form going a bit over the top with wanting so much money to run a trial, it wasn't that brilliant. We always had a section going through the ruined house near the start area. I used to practice out at Osmotherly along with Jack Galloway, don't know the name of the farm but this is a bril area with some of the best beck sections around, bit like the Scottish in some places. Rob Edwards and Rathmell used to turn up there too. Would be a superb trial, but a bit too far for me to go. Hope you get a good entry. Ta ta, PeterB.

Hi Steve, Where is Scotland Farm close to? It's not the old Woodhouse Farm venue in Gt. Ayton is it? Ta ra PeterB.

Hi Mark, Drain the gearbox oil when it is warm, this holds any particulate matter in suspension and allows it to drain away. Drain bolt is under the gearbox, LHS under the gear shaft exit sort of. You need 700ml of mineral oil, not synthetic a 10 weight or use an ATF rated to Dexron III. Fill in with the bike laid over on the left via the filler cap, just above the rear brake pedal. No sight glass on this model, certainly no dipstick - sounds like you are used to Japanese motors! Bye, PeterB.

Hi Dave, What do you mean by "gone through 3 spark plugs" Can you explain a bit further. Have they oiled up and stopped working. Have they just stopped sparking and are not oiled up? Is the motor burning gearbox oil, is there lots of blue smoke from the exhaust? Usually, as Ralph said, plugs last for years unless something is amiss with the motor/carb. NGKBPR5ES is correct for your bike. Is there a good connection between the plug cap and HT lead. Is the voltage regulator mounted tightly onto the underneath of the headstock. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Mark, As mentioned earlier, the JTX 320 came out in 97, there was no 320/330 in 94 so maybe someone got the years mixed up on the 320. Your GT32 is a piston ported model, with the inlet manifold into the barrel, the JTX has a case reed. Crankcases and clutch case are different, internals are compatible, GT32 ign is Motoplat JTX is Kokusan - that's a plus! The JTX cylinder is inclined forward compared to the GT32 so that motor may not fit into the older frame, but, most of the cycle parts will fit into/onto the JTX frame which will be lighter amd more modern looking than your 93 unit. If the parts are reasonable then consider buying them. Bye, PeterB.

This bike looks like a 1998 270 with 2002 odd ball stickers added. Maybe the seller has no idea what it is, only going by the stickers. Maybe he really does know. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Ben, These barrels are as rare as finding a dog that speaks Norwegian. Getting an original piston is even rarer. But, ask at GG UK first as they may just have one, also, the original piston manufacturer for the old 200 motor's no longer supplies the pistons and the replacement offered is not a brilliant remedy, thinner rings and the ring pegs are in an awkward place. If the original piston is not overly worn, you could get the barrel replated, I can't remember but I think you were in Leeds, if so, best place to ask about this is at White Bros in Darlington, ask for Al the Spanner, he would know what can be done. Gaskets should be no problem. Bye, PeterB.

Bonjour Edouard, Ca va? C'est moi, Pierre ici. Let me know if you have not already got in touch with the trials lads in Wgtn, they are a good bunch. I just had a look at the you toob link, you're good at making it look like you really are falling off that small bunch of logs. Au revoir, PeterB.

Hi barry, I am reasonably sure that the JCM motor is similar or the same as an 80's Gas Gas. That being the case you can use a clutch kit for a 2001 model 321, only the plate tangs are slightly larger than needed, so a little time is needed for filing these to size. It works well, I have done this to a 1988 model, air cooled Gas Gas. Bye, PeterB.

I spoke to Greg Florin from Scorpa France in France last Sept, he advised 2008 was the last year for a 2T Scorpa (maybe just the final year with the present motor). Also heard from another source that another 2T motor was mooted but really, I can't confirm this. It seemed that the restrictive European rules on emissions dictated that only 4T engines could be homologated for sale in some/most EU countries - I am pretty sure that Germany, France and Italy can only accept 4T motors - again, needs to be confirmed. Bye, PeterB.

Hi bikespace, We all cracked up with cope's "maybe number 24 was better" I have broken 3 vices, 2 of them are Records, number 3. A friend has used a large, old Chinese vice for many years, also cast iron, subjected it to all sorts of abuse, tightening the handle with a scaffold pole and it's still ok. You can weld your old one up, heat it all up in an oven for a few hours to drive out the moisture, and when still hot, with the crack vee'd out for welding, use an arc welder with a nickel rod at high current for max penetration. There is no carbon in the nickel rod and this prevents the weld from becoming brittle. You can get cast iron rods but I have never worked with these. Or just get another one, the steel one sounds good. Also, in the old metalwork shops in schools in the UK that used to have forges, there should be a drop leg vice, made from real wrought iron these were made to put up with lots of hammering. Bye, PeterB.

Hi branc, You can consider a DellOrto PHBH 26, as fitted to most of the GG bikes. Std set up is fine except you need to have a 95 main jet, or if you can't get one, solder up the original (118 usually) and drill 1.00 mm, that's close enough. Works perfect. 60 slide, D36 needle, 270K needle jet, 33 pilot, pilot screw out approx 3.5 turns. I have also tried a Keihin flat slide PWK 28 with std jetting for a Gasser, but with 100 main jet, works the best out of DellOrto, Mikuni and Amal but then when I fitted this I also fitted a PRO reed valve block and did a little porting work so it was not a fair test. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Portman, I haven't worked on these motors before so can only generalise. If you're having both main bearings go rusty then there is water getting in the crankcase, which may suggest that there is water getting into the gearbox/clutch area usually from a water pump shaft seal. As it has happend often, it is pretty odd. If you are sure it is not from the carb/airbox area and there is no water leaking past the pump seal, then water is entering the crankcase from the cylinder. Have a look to see if the water passages have not corroded through the base of the barrel and past the base gasket into the crankcase. What work was done to the barrel? Was it bored out a little and re-plated, or was a sleeve made up and fitted? Was it a reputable engineering company that has done this type of work before? Hope this helps, PeterB.

Hi Jan, It isn't normal for water to leak out of the pump when removing. You may need a new seal and shaft - best to get these in for work after the trial! Bye, PeterB.

Hi Jan, I'd be almost 100% sure that the water has already reacted with the clutch fibre plates and caused them to swell, lowering the mechanical advantage of the 10 clutch lever fingers. To get it ok for the weekend check the finger height, 17.5mm from memory, if lower then the pack has swelled and new plates should be used, but.... you can always carefully rub the thickness down of the fibres on a plate glass with emery paper on top. Pack height should be 9.75mm or less. Good luck, PeterB.

Hi Mark, These were good bikes in their day, lots of strong, stump pulling power. You'll need a flywheel puller specific for this model Gas Gas, it's a different thread to the 96 270 and later PRO models. Don't lose the ball bearing that sits between the clutch pushrod and the end mushroom piece. Don't lock the clutch centre by the spring stubs to undo the centre nut, they will break off. This centre nut should have a locking tab washer fitted. Check the clutch fibres as on older bikes they tend to peel away from the steel backing. Bottom end is strong, why are you stripping the motor? Check the water pump shaft and seal as these can leak water into the gear box. Fit new cylinder head O rings as these age harden. Not 100% sure now, but I think the gears were best left in the RHS case when splitting the cases. Good luck, PeterB.

Hi crosser, If your bike is an 05 model, it will have a mineral oil clutch system, not hydraulic fluid. To check this, the clutch master cylinder cap should be green, if it is green (and for 05 it should be) then you have to use a mineral oil in the actuation system (I'm trying not to write - in the hydraulic line). If you have already mixed hydraulic fluid with the mineral oil in the clutch system, then you already have problems and need to replace the seals in the slave and master cylinders and flush out the clutch hose plus all wetted parts - I am not sure if you can just clean them up, you ever tried this Jon? The black clutch cover should have a spring and pusher post that resides inside the slave cylinder, the "top hat" shaped piston should fit over the two seals of the slave cylinder. These seals will be compatible with mineral oil only, not hydraulic fluid. Would be best to get a friend in your area to help you out with this one, ar at least an exploded diagram - check out the Gas Gas USA website for this - also the excellent repair video clips. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Steve, That silencer tube is a pretty large diameter, I'd have used 20 to 25mm ID perforated tube with as much volume as possible. I read in a technical article somewhere that the exhaust silencer volume has an optimum ratio to the swept volume, that I think was 12:1 - best to look this up, try Google, maybe Tuning for speed by Phil Irving. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Nigel, I was wondering if the bent pushrod was caused by the piston hitting a valve? Maybe the B25 piston has a far higher crown than the C15, in relation to the gudgeon pin centre. Do you have an old C15 piston to compare with? If not, it's worth checking valve to piston crown clearence using a bit of plastercine on the piston valve cut-outs to determine the valve clearence when assembled. Also worth checking for volume in the combustion chamber using thick oil from a measuring jug poured down the plug hole when at TDC with the valves closed, then compare this to the swept volume, eg: 246cc to determine the compression ratio, you should have something lower than 9:1. You may be able to turn the piston crown down a little if too high, check for crown thickness first. Bye, PeterB.

Hi there, You may be able to use a Gas Gas folding kickstart and adapt it to the splined boss on the bantam - could be pricey though. Bye, Peter.

Hi Steve, Straight through would be best, with a perforated tube packed on the outside with fibreglass silencer packing material. Baffles would be power restrictive and with a Bantam, you can't afford to lose any! From memory, exhaust/silencer volume is optimum at a ration of 12:1 of the swept volume, if you want to work that out. I remember Peco made silencers for the Villiers engined bikes, a year or two back now, were a bit noisey I read. Bye, PeterB.