peterb

Hi Jan and Jon, The 2002 PRO 200/125's had a different airbox unit to the bigger bikes, it looked like it was from the 2001 model and wasn't a brilliant looking thing to do. Apart from that, the frame should be the same as the 250/280. 02 PRO's had 350ml capacity in the gearbox, with a flexing clutch cover, part of the problem with the dragging PRO clutches from then. The 03 onwards cover was webbed internally to prevent flexing. The 02 crankases were redesigned for 03 onwards to provide greater strength for the bottom motor mount and relocated the bottom 5mm pinch bolt, that is why there are 2 different crank gaskets in the PRO gasket set, one for the 02 and one for everything else. I think at this time the gearbox oil capacity was increased to 450 to 500ml. Like you Jon, I also prefer to run with as much oil as possible. At 500ml, I still don't get any out from the breather. A bit old fashioned there. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Jan, Best way to see what is happening is to remove the clutch (centre bolt - do not use a ball end allen key, but a squared off allen key, tap the nut with a drift first), put it into first gear then move the gear lever past the normal point and see if the "top hat" at the other end of the gear shaft is slipping between it's two parts. If not, then it is something more sinister, maybe a piece has broken from the shift drum wall or as you say, perhaps one of the pawls may have a problem, possibly a weak return spring (they look like a hairpin spring) Bye, PeterB.

Hi Tom, I still have a pair of Hebo trial pants that still look good after 16 years use - on and off. They wear well, come out clean in the wash and not sweaty in the summer. Only real problem is that the material is easily burnt from touching a hot exhaust pipe. Need a carbon fibre shield. They don't feel heavy when soaked too, not like jeans, were fine in the SSDT. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Rod, Usual to damage the cylinder when these seize, best to have a look before buying. Also very likely to have damaged the big end at the same time. Have a feel of the big end! bearing to see if it rotates smoothly without the feeling of a thrupenny piece - what's that? a multi straight edged old UK coin, worth 3 pennies. The bike is fine, lots of power but easily de-tuned if necessary, not a sharp power delivey. Bye, PeterB.

Hi daz, It is quite likely that the 2 kickstart gears have given up. Some of the gears were not hardened sufficiently and after some time, the teeth would round off. Best to replace both of these gears, even if the damage looks like it is just on one gear, they are at the inside end of the kiskstart shaft. You will need to remove the clutch to get at this, to undo the clutch centre nut, try either an impact driver or air ratchet but not by using a socket with the clutch centre jammed to prevent it from turning with a screwdriver against the spring posts - they break easily. The taper bearings in the headstock are a common car wheel bearing size so you should have no trouble getting these. The bottom bearing inner race is a problem to remove, some people use a cold chisel to split this, you can also very carefully grind a deep slot across the race before splitting it away from the head stem. Re-fill with either 10 weight mineral oil, or an ATF rated to Dexron III, 700ml. Bye, PeterB.

Hi max, I had an Iris chain, it snapped after about a year from new. Have used DID 520 HD (heavy duty) successfully. Iris definately not recommended. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Jan, Problem is very likely to be the 2 piece "top hat" gear selector spring retainer at the clutch end of ther gear selector shaft. The "top hat" - looks like a sleeve with a pressed-on washer at one end that incorporates a tab for the selector spring to hook over, has a cross piece fixed inside the ID of the sleeve, this cross piece locates into the end of the selector shaft, the tab part of the washer should be in the same plane as the cross piece - very hard to describe properly! What can happen is that the pressed on (may be brazed too) washer can slip around the sleeve which will give you the sensation of the gear lever having extended travel, as one of my bikes did a few years back. Have a look, if the 2 parts are not lined up then best to fit a new top hat with spring. You can braze up the 2 pieces after very careful alignment though after doing this, if you strike a rock with your gear lever, the top hat will not have any give and you stand to break something more expensive in the gearbox! Bye, PeterB.

Hi pillar, it is a 1998 bike, no major problems with these. Linkage bearings and possible clutch plate problem with the fibres coming unstuck from the backing plates - symptoms for this are lots of clutch drag. Few of the frames can crack through use, under the headstock area, but certainly not endemic and easily fixed with a MIG. Fork bushes can wear causing incessant leakage past the seals, easily fixed. New seals last only a few months before leaking again, replacing the bushes and setting them up properly cures the leaking problem. Bye, PeterB.

Hi drflaver, Is the plug getting wet? If the plug is dry then you may not have any petrol getting through the carb. Try tipping the bike right over to the LHS to flood the carb. If this doesn't help then the flywheel key may have sheared and allowed the timimg to slip. Need a puller to check. Bye, PeterB.

I thought Trevor Buckworth was the father of Joe, and was a tall blond haired bloke, used to drink with Allan Smith and Fothers in Guisborough, I don't know Martin Buckworth, time for a visit maybe. Ta ta, PeterB.

Hi Jaan, If you don't mind spending a lot of time working on the Ancilloti to achieve something close to a trial motor then I think it is a good idea. I like the involvement in building a special and the learning that goes with it, lots of fun. I also don't think the motor is a good choice but if it's all you have got........ As detailed earlier, you need more flywheel weight, is there room in the mag casing for a larger outside diameter flywheel? Gearing may be a problem, tend to have close gear ratios in MX bikes back then. Porting is the biggest issue. trial transfer ports tend to be wide and flat though accommodating a large volume. Maybe you can find a cylinder/head/piston from another motor that can be adapted to fit, you can always re-drill the cylinder for through bolts or different stud bolts, and maybe there is room to re-locate the existing cylinder studs in the crankcase. Maybe an older Japanese 125 cylinder/piston & head could be made to fit, that would save the original set up. Good luck with this one, PeterB.

Hi lpd, 3 turns out is fine for the pilot, 3.5 turns is just a starting point. It is the (smaller) screw closer to the inlet manifold. The 02 PRO model shock is 20mm shorter than the older 95 type models, which may just be the same length for the 2000 model (I am reasonably sure though not 100% sure). By your description, it sort of sounds like you have a shorter shock. A longer shock ie: standard length, fitted to your bike would tend to tuck the front end in from where it is now. From memory, the older shock was 300mm centre to centre, the PRO models are 280mm. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Lee, The Sun Inn at Bilsdale was my first trial in the 70's. The car park field is fine for camping unless you already have a proper camp site to go to. There are not many farm houses in that area, you can always try Chop Gate, about 3 km back toward Stokesly for pub accommodation, and a pie and pint. Should be ok weather wise this time of year, loooong nights. Check out Helsmley, not too far away, great place for a visit and has a Norman castle too. Also, Rievaulx Abbey is just down the road from you and worth a look, part of the UK heritage. Bit odd really as when I were 20 I wasn't bothered with these places, just the riding. Superb trials area, lots of rocky becks and climbs, would be nice to ride there again. Ta ta, PeterB.

Aah, the West Island (NZ joke). If you can't get a good Mk 2 concentric, then you can consider a DellOrto PHBH 26, as fitted to most of the GG bikes. Std set up is fine except you need to have a 95 main jet, or if you can't get one, solder up the original (118 usually) and drill 1.00 mm, that's close enough. Works perfect. Have fitted these to many Bultaco's, 325 & 250 also Ossa 250. Never had any joy at all with the Mk 2 concentrics (used) they were just plain awful. If you are stuck I have everything here in the mainland! Bye, PeterB.

Hi borus, There is a test in the UK Trials and Motocross News, last month I think late June, with a short test by Woody Hole on a GGUK 225. Also, I heard there were a few of these in the USA but no contact details. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Jon, I nearly wrote in about the 10 outer allen head clutch spring screws too! Angusgill, I think you mean the allen screw has rounded off in the clutch centre, this is pretty awkward to get to. Don't use a ball ended key! I usually tap these for a while with a drift prior to trying to loosen and then they usually come undone ok. Try tapping with a drift before using/jamming a torx key or imperial allen key. I find using those allen keys fitted into socket's work well here as you can exert a lot of force down onto the screw while twisting. Good luck, PeterB.

Hi postmanpat, Sorry, but I have to disagree, having worked on 2T bike engines for more than 30 years, all of the crank bearings have been C3 that I remember, the last GG PRO I worked on was fitted with C4. Also, hi temp viton is the seal usually used in 2T motors for crankshaft seals, nitirle in most other motor areas. If nitrile are fitted as std to the Beta then it is a first for me and I stand corrected. Ta ta, PeterB.

It is George McGee, he used to ride an Ossa when I was in the club, about 3-5 years earlier than the photo's. I was just a lad then! I don't know the other riders, after my time - I'd left for more sunny pastures by then. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Matt, When you order bearings for crankshaft applications, they are usually supplied with extra clearence rollers, designated by a suffix, C3 or C4, so the bearing ordered should be 6206 C3, or 6206 C4. (Either would be fine) Crankshaft seals are usually supplied as high temp viton, and may even be teflon. I have not worked on Beta's before so am unable to give you a definate on this. Best place to get the seals would be from the Beta dealer or importer so you know you have the right type. Bye, PeterB.

Hallo FSB, Hab gut English geshcrieben! The frame looks like a 1972, silencer from a 73/4 model - didn't work as well as the larger type of silencer but was lighter. I am fairly sure that on the clutch side, there should be an O ring seal on the oil seal carrier, inbetween the crankshaft and the carrier. Also the oil seal carrier will either have a paper flange gasket or an O ring seal. The gearbox is vented via a small hole in the LHS casing just to the right of the kickstart shaft exit, primary casing should be vented from the cap. If the smoking does not turn out to be from the primary drive or gearbox and if it does still have the original carb or an old Amal concentric Mk II, it could well be the carb is worn out. A DellOrto PHBL26 from a Gas Gas works very well and goes straight on, more or less, with just a change to a 95 main jet. Bye, PeterB.

Hi tombo, It is always a good idea to heat up the wheel hub with just boiling water, immediately prior to knocking out the wheel bearings. On later model bikes, the hubs are keenly machined to minimal dimensions, it is possible to crack the hub when trying to remove the bearings while cold, the boiling water expands the aluminium more than the steel bearings and allows safe removal of the bearings. Fit new bearings with dust seals. Before fitting, carefully prise off the seals from one side of each bearing, and re-pack the bearing with water proof grease, Mobil HP or better, then fit the seals back in. Bearings are supplied with minimal grease from the factory. Bye, PeterB.

Hi elctb, That bottom mount bolt was always a bit misaligned, I always drill this mount/motor casing straight through with a 10mm drill bit to relieve the stress on the engine mounts. There's plenty of meat there so no need to worry about drilling. When you get round to bleed the clutch actuation system, remember it is operated with mineral oil, not hydraulic (DOT 4) oil. You can get small bottles of this from your nearest mountain bike shop. Bye, PeterB.

Hello dickv8, It would be really unusual for an 06 bike to already have a worn barrel, how have you determined the wear? It would not be easy by sight alone. Use an internal micrometer at various points up the barrel between the ex and inlet port, these are the areas that would wear from use, determine the amount of taper in the bore, should be less than 1.5 thou. If you want to change the barrel, you may be able buy exchange barrel/piston, or have your barrel replated and fit a new piston. If it were me, and the bore looked/measured ok, I'd fit a new piston, one letter up from std. ("A" is normally fitted, try a "B" piston, slightly larger skirt dia.) It's the piston that usually wears/distorts and creates the rattle, on later motors. Bye, PeterB.

Hi cdn, The torx head was to distinguish the upgraded bush from the earlier type, it was a material change from memory, for harder wearing. Yes, they are pretty tight from the factory. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Aaron, Have a good look/cleanout of all of the passageways, if not done already. There is a fuel filter in the banjo fitting on the fuel inlet to the carb that will need cleaning too. Another area worth checking is the emulsion tube, or needle jet, it is a brass unit screwed into the body, above the main jet, plus the associated passageways. The DellOrto fuel needles used to have a rubber tip, if so your's may have gone off. There is a wire clip that connects the fuel needle to the tang of the float arms, is this in place? This would pull down the v/v when the fuel level becomes low in the float bowl. I don't know the model of Dell Orto you have, PHBH or PHBL 26mm? If PHBL, the pilot screw works the fuel circuit, so unscrewing this richens the mixture, start with 3.5 turns out from fully in. The opposite for PHBH, works on the air cct so turning in (clockwise) richens the mixture. Start with 1 turn out from fully in. Throttle needle try 2nd clip of the bottom. Stay with the DellOrto, good carb, easy to tune. Bye, PeterB.