peterb

Hi Andy, The floating disc set up does tend to get sloppy with time, it's not a bad thing but annoying if the disc is rattling away with the motor idling. Side float is fine. The 98 model has 6 cupped washers that can wear a little and can be replaced, P/N BT27718019. Tap the 8mm headed hex bolts with a drift before losening as they tend to be hard in, re-fit with loctite. The disc is more likely to be worn, if so, you could get some wahsers turned up to suit. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Brian, Give me a call at home, I have a brand new Motoplat electronic coil unit for a Bultaco Pursang, might be the same one as the Ossa unit. Also, Ray C and I have all but completed fitting a Kokusan digital system to my 325 Bult and may be able to perform a similar operation on your Ossa. (Ray made a new centre for the Kokusan flywheel with the Bult taper. I have a few bits left to make up another system. Ta ta, PeterB.

Hi Andy, There are stacks of good GG suppliers in the UK. Give me your frame number and I should be able to date the bike for you. Bye, PeterB.

As far as I know, only the 125 is offered with a red frame as a "Racing". The rest of the line up have black frame and red plastics except for the 280 which is offered with blue plastics as an option. All new plastics, different gear ratios, footrests 2mm lower and a little farther back, motor lower in the frame, new shorter exhaust pipe, new more efficient radiator, bar pad and a few other bits and pieces. Looks good, bye, PeterB.

Hi Dougie, Maybe a tad more diplomacy would assist in getting the response you are after. Best of luck in making it big in the land of undelectable sustenance and irreverent weather patterns. Bye, PeterB.

Hi GJ, I run a 2006 Raga 300, it was too quick as standard, bit of a handful up creeks. We haven't tried out any head spacers down this part of the World, but can vouch for the benefits of using the flywheel weight. After fitting a weight kit (comes with flywheel cover spacer), the motor was just the best for me. Very controllable up creeks, over slippy rocks, couldn't ask for a better responding motor. It has that bit more roll when shutting off over a step and has a more controllable low end rev response. In my experience, the 280 has a fast responding motor and would benefit with the weight. If your 280 is not an 03 model (with a flat slide DellOrto), you could also try fitting a D34 needle in lieu of the D36, it is a little richer at low revs and slows things down a little, doesn't work well on the 250 though. Bye, PeterB.

On some of the Pro's, they have Ducati ignition systems fitted. I have found that these have given the same hot start symptoms that are mentioned here, most noticebly with the 06 bikes. Have a look on the flywheel/magneto outer diameter to see if there is a rubbing mark - if so it is likely to be the external ignition pick up sensor that I think is making contact with the magneto. As the motor heats up the mag expands and contacts the sensor shorting out the signal - the pick up system needs an air gap to work - it's worth a look. The other thing I noticed is that a lot of DellOrto carbs come from the Italian factory with the float heights set wrong, generally set to a low bowl fuel level. Bye, PeterB.

Hmmm, Not so straight forward, you can try spacers perhaps up to 25mm long on the fork springs or look for a spring manufacturer to make you some stiffer springs but from chatting to other riders, trying out both bikes and reading the forums on TC for a while, I'd say that because the PRO is so light it does feel different and maybe a little skittish up river. The Beta is heavier and probably tracks nicer upstream, maybe on steep loose climbs too, your theory on varying wheelbase would then apply to the Beta too. The 250 Pro has a lively motor which may accentuate the feeling, you could always try a head spacer or slow action throttle too. I guess, it's mainly because of the light weight of the Pro and you can't really get around that. I ride a 300 Raga with Hebo flywheel weight and just can't think of anything that would suit me better, it's bril. Bye, PeterB.

I agree with lineaway, try to spend a bit more and go for an 06 onwards, great bike. Bye, PeterB.

That's a good list. Best not to use a multi grade oil in the gearbox though, causes clutch drag. Use a straight 10 weight mineral oil only, or an ATF rated to Dexron III, never a synthetic. Re-fill with 700ml. I always run fuel/oil at 50:1 with a mineral oil, but then I am old fashioned and like to see a 2 stroke smoke a little. My preference for fork oil is 280ml 5 weight in each leg, I guess this is rider dependant. Bye, PeterB.

Hi there, I've not heard of this happening on GG brakes. I have had success with using a syringe on the bleed nipple and forcing hydraulic oil from the caliper upwards. Can be a problem getting a syringe. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Phil, If you mean gearbox oil, use 700ml of a mineral oil, never synthetic. Alternatively use a good ATF rated to Dexron III. Fuel oil, I use a mineral again, 50:1 ratio (old fashioned) Fork oil, 5 weight, 280ml in each leg. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Craig, I don't have an Aprillia but thought I may be able to help. The thermoswitch closes upon reaching a certain temp - usually around 80C. I have tested switches with a meter (DVM) set to read ohms, to indicate when the switch makes. Using boiling water from a kettle, pour into a cup and insert the switch with the meter across the terminals - there is a time delay in the switch making - sometimes up to 35 seconds or so. If not making, then the switch has failed. I'm not sure of the type of switch that you have, it may be the same as an early GG or Beta. If totally different to these models, and you can't get a replacement, then you could easily fit an inline t/switch assy from a 95-02 GG. What part of the world are you in? Not sure how your system is wired, usually the t/switch is in series with the fan rectifier and simply closes an electric circuit - you mention one leg is to earth - is it? Or, are both t/switch leads not going to earth (ground) as is the norm, ie: one wire is the power lead in from the generator, the other lead joins to the fan rectifier to convert to DC - maybe yours is a different system, hard to know. Bye, PeterB.

Hi there, It could be that you are not getting enough travel to fully bleed the system. Try 2 things. Use a tool to wedge between one of the pads and the disc and try to get the other piston moving by actuating the brake pedal. If this doesn't work, take the brake pedal of, (it's worth doing anyway to use loctite on the pedal bolt clamp threads when you re-fit), you can now use a screwdriver to actuate the master cylinder which provides a far greater stroke than when using just the brake pedal. This should work. Incidentally, it's not necessary to bleed the brake system when replacing the pads. Bye, PeterB.

It seems like your shock is set ok, adjustment full out to the minus sign - in your case this is clockwise. I don't have a shock handy to have a look at for you to confirm the settings, my present one is an Ohlins. The yellow spring colour is std for the later model Sachs Boge shock. Are you sure there are no seized linkage bearings or even the linkage pivot bearing in the swinging arm? Are the s/arm bearings ok? Nothing else catching preventing movement? Can't think of anything else to check for. From new, the rear suspension does feel a little stiff but this usually beds in after 2-3 trials. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Martin, With 700ml of ATF (rated to Dexron III) in the gearbox and the clutch is dragging means there is another problem. Usually these clutches work well. Problems could be with the master cylinder seal passing - easy to replace and not expensive, slave piston may have the ball bearing, that pushes the clutch push rod, become pushed back into itself - happened a few times and just needs a slave piston kit, or worse case and not impossible, is that the clutch fibres have started to come unstuck from their metal plates. Best to check the plates first as this is easy to do. Use 280ml of 5 weight in each leg of the forks. Bye, PeterB.

Never read so much to do with changing tyres. Over this way, some of us use a vice to clamp the deflated tyre and twist the wheel to break the bead carefully using WD40/CRC penetrating oil. My good friend is thinking about making a proper bead breaker and if this happens, will post some photos. For refitting, we use a length of dairy milking hose, its a thick walled rubber hose about 25mm diameter, with a longer length of string in it to give you something to pull the hose out of the way when the tyre inflates. This works like the suggested 14 inch inner tube method, fit the tyre into the rim well, push in the hose to take up the room between the tyre and the rim, with the two ends of the hose meeting together, then inflate with a compressor using lots of soapy water. Never failed to work. Sometimes works with a good foot pump, but very hard to bead out the tyre. Bye, PeterB.

Most definately go with a Hebo flywheel kit and a slow action (black throttle tube) throttle - you will be able to glide effortlessly over those slippy as rocks in the creeks and have delicate throttle control to hoist you over 6 ft moss covered steps. I have used the flywheel kit on both of my 300's, makes a big difference in the river sections, takes the edge off the low end response and lets the motor roll a little easier. Bye, PeterB.

I agree with mostar, I have over 15 years with Gas Gas and can say that the Raga 06 is clearly the best trials bike I have ever ridden. The s/arm, crank cases and clutch case are in magnesiun alloy, almost half the weight of the standard aluminium alloy components, the Keihin carb, aluminium reed block, Ohlins shock and gold anodised parts really set the bike apart from anything else. Apart from looking the part, the bike does go exceptionally well. To convert a standard bike to these specifications would cost a considerable amount of money. My next bike would be a Raga 300. Bye, PeterB.

Half to one inch sag would be fine for me, what colour spring is it? I think black would be it for a replacement shock which is ok. Is the damping adjustment backed off? (Anti clockwise). Bye, PeterB.

Well articulated Woody, I do like your answer. Fortunately, we are not so governed by rules here in NZ probably as there are few enough riders not to be overly bothered about changing specific age related motors/frames/parts around. It's more so about the spirit of competing in trials, somewhere along those lines! Bye, PeterB.

Hi Fergus, I generally use 280ml of 5 weight in each leg. Bye, PeterB.

Thanks GT, We live close to sea level, haven't much chance to experience high altitude trials. Bye, PeterB.

I had a similar case to this some years back with a friends bike. It was one of the linkage bearings that had rusted up. Strip out all of the linkage bearings and have a look, it's worth the time to grease these too with a waterproof type grease, or renew as necessary. Also check the 50mm long bush in the swinging arm, some of the older ones used to fracture. Failing this, the problem would be with the shock. Bye, PeterB.

From reading the text, it would sound like the motor is pinging, usually due to a lean mixture. You should have a D36 needle, with the clip second notch off the bottom, pilot screw out approx 3.5 to 4 turns, about 115 main jet. I usually run pump petrol at 95 octane with a 50:1 fuel/oil ratio using mineral 2T oil. Never had a pinging problem. Bye, PeterB.