bultaco49

Came across this Movietone clip. I think there are probably more trial clips if you search the archive. http://www.movietone.com/N_POPUP_Player.cfm?action=playVideo&assetno=95964

Don't combine a resistor cap with internal resistor plugs. This doubles the resistance and may give problems especially with starting. Plugs with resistors usually have a prominent 'R' in the manufacturers code.

Try here http://www.shedworks.net/id16.html

Try Powerdyno in Germany (English spoken) They were very helpful when I wanted a specific spec Bultaco ignition (also unlike Electrex who never answered my email). They make very good sports ignition. http://www.powerdynamo.biz/eng/systems/7294/7294acinst.php

If you are assembling a flywheel on a taper shaft the woodruff key only locates the flywheel on the shaft. The taper does all the gripping. If you are shearing woodruff keys constantly lap the flywheel to the shaft and then assemble clean and dry - no oil or grease - and you can leave the woodruff key out (making sure the required torque setting is attained!) I run my Bultaco 250 Historic kart at 10,000 rpm with a 1kg flywheel with no woodruff key. Villiers - no woodruff key Powerdynamo electronic ignition (a very good German option) - no woodruff key

I'm sure Dave at Bultaco UK will have one. This part is common to many Bultaco Sherpa engines. If not PM me and I will send you one. http://www.bultacouk.com/

Hi Woody According to my M129 5 speed Kart engine stripped out on the bench it is raised boss facing outwards towards the clutch. Engine & gearbox is the same as all the other Bultaco engines I have worked on. Cog wear marks in my box of bits also indicate boss facing outwards. Tim

The Historic Karting crowd get their cables made at J.J Cables Ltd Tel: 01926 651470. I think they may have had a mention on this forum too in the past. Maybe worth a try if you can't find one.

If you do use Caswell's there is plenty for two tanks and at £50 a go its worth finding another tank to split the costs. I think there are only two outlets for Caswells. http://www.caswelleurope.co.uk/ or www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/news/22231//Ethanol_-_Part_Two:_The_Remedies That address is a useful article on Ethanol but go back to homepage and follow the link for caswells TIm

Here's one. Model 49 engine in Sammy Miller frame with Kit Campeon. Built in 1970. Some newer bits added along the way. Owned by me until recently.

The general description you give of assembly doesn't sound quite correct. The crank seal carriers should be temporarily bolted to crankcase then mains should be assembled onto crank. Fully assembled left side of case should be laid on supports and heated to 145oC. While hot, crank should be dropped into it. Mains should slide into position with a gentle tap (not heafty blows and certainly not pressed). Centre gasket then applied and right side of case heated to same temperature then dropped onto left case over crank & mains. Again case should just slip into position. Getting cases to correct temperature is key and assembly as stated should just slip together. As cases cool mains are gripped by different contraction rates. Bultaco UK have a very good workshop manual which describes this operation in detail and has crank assembly and check procedures and dimensions. Left case best heated with torch and right case best heated in an oven or I use a gas BBQ with a lid to avoid wife complaints. Hope this helps Tim

That bike on Spinning Wheel Classics looks to me like a 1969 engine & frame with a 73 Bultaco Homerlite tank, Sammy Miller Exhaust and much later rear shocks. Decompressor and alloy air box are not original.

Hi Pat Nice find. Here is a Belgian site that mentions the Jean Crosset entry http://www.classicenduro.be/bultaco1970-1.html Tim Norwood

The frame in Blackcats article is a later version than that in Zisco's or mine - and was a bit of a handful for the reasons stated! The earlier frames had a single pillar under the seat (picture below) much like the later model 49 & model 80 and was very similar to model 80. Frame had a tendancy to break at the base of the headstock gusset Tim

The Miller frame has to be considered in the context of the time it was introduced. Sammy Miller designed the frame in the late 60's when the Model 49 was in production. Also Sammy was a Bultaco works rider and more or less unbeatable. Much of the Miller frame and the slimline tank was incorperated into the Model 80 with the exception of the bash plate, a mod that would not appear on the Bultaco for another 9 years. Sammy also had the benifit of much better quality and lighter steel tubing than was available in Franco's Spain. I have ridden a Model 49,a model 80 and and currently ride an un-modified 1970 Miller framed Bultaco. Can I tell the difference? Its better than the Model 49 but the Model 80, not really. The frame was used with much sucess in the bikes in Sammy Millers team and Sammy himself as he withdrew from the Bultaco works ride. Having said all that I sought out a Miller frame for my Bultaco out of respect for a rider, Sammy Miller who I remember being way ahead of the game in 1970. The frame is what should have been fitted to the model 80 and therefore makes it interesting and desirable. Sammy was also a businessman and who can deny him the opportunity to use his hard earned position to promote some 'products' - a commonplace situation these days. I'm not sure changing the head angle and shock position is adding anything to the frame. It is not going to handle like a modern bike - its way to heavy for a start and built primararily for sections that don't exist any more. Its a design looking back to the era of the heavyweights rather than to the later, lighter twinshocks and mono's. Tim