bultaco49

Hi If you do a search on this forum or on the internet generally for fibreglass tanks and enthanol, modern fuels and fibreglass tanks etc you will see that the ethanol content (and some other additives) is causing major problems for those that store fuel in fibreglass. Ethanol has only been introduced relatively recently to pump fuels so its a new problem. I first encountered this problem on my Bultaco Sherpa and subsequently on my Alpina also. Both have fibreglass tanks. As far as I am concerned there is only one remedy that works and that is an internal two part tank sealer from Caswell Europe. You can find their stockist via an internet search. If you try any other cheaper alternative phone the producer and ask directly if the sealer is suitable for fibreglass tanks. Most are not and are aimed at sealing steel tanks and will not bond to fibreglass but fail to mention this in their blurb. Once used they are a nightmare to get out. Its important the tank is cleaned out properly before using sealer. Some people recommend acetone but this will immediately eat any paint it comes into contact with and will also attack the fibreglass if left in too long. I use a strong alkaline solution such as Marine Clean which will do the job but must be rinsed out with water and the water completely dried out of the tank. I have sealed all my Bultaco's and my Historic Kart tanks with Caswell and have had no blistering, delaminating or leakege. I sealed the Sherpa tank six years ago. Tim

Hi Sorry to hear about your situation. Very trickey. This is a very similar situation to that which happened to my brother over a purchase of what turned out to be a stolen car. As he had paid a fair price and bought the car in good faith (the seller had basically 'ringed' the car to hide its correct identity) he had a legal claim to the car as had the insurance company who had paid out for it. He contacted the insurance company who were actually sympathetic to his claim and did'nt want the hassle of disposing of the car. After a small fee they transferred ownership to my brother. You should contact a solicitor (as did my brother) and try to contact the insurance company and tell them you want to retain the bike and be able to show you purchased it openly and legitimately for a reasonable price before handing over the bike. Hope this helps and good luck. Tim

Hi Booma There are more than one version of the Miller Hi-Boy frame. Generally the first models have the frame type similar to the 1970 M80 under seat single post and the later type similar to the later M92 with triangular under seat frame arrangement. All types had the alloy plate connecting downtube to footrest/swing arm which was only introduced on the factory Bultaco frame M198a/199b. The early ones are a lot lighter than their contemporaries as the tubing used is far superior to the tube available in Spain at that time. The early ones were fabricated by Mick Whitlock I believe and his work is excellent. I'm not sure who fabricated the later ones but the quality of build is not as good. The early frames were popular and competitive but the later frames are an aquired taste. The riding position is very high as is ground clearance. Not popular with everyone and not considered best for the modern layout of sections. The weak point of the Miller frame is the gusset joint between the headstock and downtube. It fractures easily and many have had the headstock angle changed badly inreasing problem. Check for cracks on gusset and tube close to gusset. Also check tube under tank as engines did not have head steady (which also braced frame). This tube can bow throwing off fork angle and allowing bash plate retaining bolts to come in contact with crankcase. None of the frames are competitive against Fantics etc., in twinshock classes in similar hands but having said that I regulary see Miller framed Bultacos giving very good accounts of themselves in Club events. I own a 1970 Miller Hi-Boy framed Kit Campion based on an M49 Sherpa and have great fun on it at Classic Trials events and shows. Its good enough (as are all Bultaco's) for the Miller Products Championship so my advice is buy it, use it and I'm sure kept in good condition it will be an appreciating asset. There are some photos of my one in the Trials Central Garage. Tim

There is absolutly no problem in using the correct modern stainless steel spokes from reputable suppliers on trials bikes. There... I've said it (again). Phone Central Wheels, Haan (motoxers) etc. and ask.

Hi - Can't remember where I got this catalogue from but just incase you do'nt have a copy, a 1949 BSA catalogue including the D1 trials.

Hi - Try the Greeves Riders site here http://www.greeves-riders.org.uk/home and here is a link to a load of photos http://www.google.co.uk/images?rlz=1T4ASUS_enGB318GB318&q=Greeves+Pathfinder&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=BZOjTI2MNsfKjAet9aiUAw&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4&ved=0CDIQsAQwAw&biw=1259&bih=576 I owned one in 1972 and in comparison to the Bultaco and Montesa it was awful. Tim

Hi - If your near Stafford try this guy - http://www.osmc.co.uk/ - You take the bike over for a day and he will make it up in stainless to your spec. Tim

Hi Colours are Rover Damask Red - CMA (BLVC99) Powder Coat RAL 3005 wine red Here is an interesting read on the development of the early James Trials bikes from Bill Lomas's book http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=2-IWdGZxeAsC&pg=PA54&lpg=PA54&dq=bill+lomas+trials+james&source=bl&ots=SYomkNBx7X&sig=5fIPeIcWlW99nehm9M_29-mcLFI&hl=en&ei=9cnbSaXQFt3TjAeU2vGrCA&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=3#PPA48,M1 go to page 54

Try Ford Sunburst Red. This is the generally accepted best colour match for the M49 & slimline models.

You can get there any time though it can get a bit busy later. North Berks are a friendly and easy going crowd and some well known and expert riders practice there as Seymours Arena is purpose built for trials and the only rock steps in the area. I usually get there early and leave around 7pm but I suspect the site is open until much later/dusk.

Try North Berks @ http://www.northberksmcc.com/ They have a practice session on 12th near Didcot. Also Mortimer Classics run 'fun' trials which are open to all. This is a ideal practice session on a good piece of land very close to Reading. Sections are marked entry and exit only. Groups tend to go around together and mark themselves on their own route. http://www.mortimerclassicmcc.co.uk/

Well done Pat, you have solved the Pre 65 elegibility problem - If you can't make it in a shed you can't use it! - (cue arguments about what you can have in your shed...)

In the spirit of these forums being a place where occasionally one can disagree with knowlegable and respected members of the forum I'd like to challenge the 'no stainless steel spokes for trials' theory. I'd make the bold claim that good quality modern high tensile stainless steel spokes are perfectly suitable for trials use. Of course, I'd also recommend that whenever buying spokes only buy from a reputable spoke maker or supplier who can give proper advice and recomendations on spokes and nipples. The worst ill-fitting and poor quality (galvanised) spokes I ever purchased came from a very respected parts supplier. I learned my lesson and now only purchase from specialists. They supplied as original single butted stainless steel sets to my specification made up from from wire developed for motocross. They have performed very well for the past three years they have been fitted and have the bonus of looking very smart. I have never heard of or found an incidence via the web of a wheel breaking up due to stainless steel spokes breaking up. On the subject of the offset for the 199a. Whenever I rebuild a wheel I set it into the frame, make sure front and rear sprockets align then adjust the offset to clear the exhaust one side and the chainguard the other. Its a bit tight on a Bultaco! When the offset is ok I remove the wheel, set it up on a spindle between two car axle stands and tension the spokes and adjust for ecentric and lateral movement.

Hi - If you look at my 'Kit' model 49 on page 6 of the tc garage I have fitted the Sammy Miller mid box and a banana tailpipe. This solves the difficulties involved with repacking the mid box and the less then efficient triangular box. The Miller box (still available from Sammy Miller Products) is pop riveted together and is very easy to repack. Banana tail pipes come up from time to time on ebay. I dismantled the triangular box on my Alpina (which is as you speculate - tube in, two baffles, tube out) fitted a perforated tube and packed the rest of the box with fiberglass. I don't trial the Alpina any more but it works fine for road use. When I removed the box from the bike, it weighed as much as a brick - which is pretty much what I found it to be full of when dismantled. Baked mud and carbon! Tim

Get your cheque books out - Vestys bike is for sale on Bultaco uk's site!

At the North Berks Downland trophy I rode my 'Kit' model 49 to one of the sections to observe and met Paul Cowley of Shedworks. He makes and refurbishes fuel tanks (mainly Honda). He is planning to make a slimline tank so a visit to his website and a contact to see how he is getting on - may be worthwhile. http://www.shedworks.net/ If you do buy a new tank/seat unit check with the supplier that it is resistant to modern fuels. If the answer is anything less than a catagoric 'yes' seal the tank before putting any fuel in. I have used 'Casewell' which is easy to use and has been no problem in three years use. Tim

That'll be an M92 Slimline Sherpa then! Nice bike, first of the 325 engined series. First numbers in the model/engine number identify model. There are a couple of owners who post here who will give chapter and verse. You can see where your M92 fits into the Bultaco scheme of things here - http://cemoto.tripod.com/bultaco.htm Is it rideable? There is a HUX twinshock trial at Dews Farm on Saturday ( http://www.hux.org.uk/ ) . Perfect 325 Bultaco territory.

Hi I recently fited a new Burlen/Amal concentric Mk1 to my model 49. To start in this cold weather requires flooding and the engine is reluctant to rev until warm. It does start after no more than three kicks though. I stripped the carb prior to fitting and found no problems with jetting, airways or build. The carb comes in a blue white box with genuine Amal markings and the guarantee under the lid as Woody describes. They also supply a handy guide and setting up chart. As your engine is similar to my late model49 the spec for my carb is - Amal concentric mk1 627/303a main 160 N/jet 106 Pilot 20 Slide no.3 The big problem with Amals has always been wear to the slide (which is the reason I renewed my carb). and the ease with which over tighteneing the flange can distort the flange and body. The new carb comes with an O ring recessed into the flange face so the nyloc nuts only have to be nipped up. When I am happy with the slide size I will replace with a bronze slide which is supposed to slow the wear rate to the carb body. I know some of you are reading this and thinking why not fit a modern carb but I'm a bit old fashioned about such things and in fact a properly set up Amal suits a model 49 or 80 fine. Hope the above is helpful Martin and you get your bike set up.

Hi Sunny There have been some very good step by step posts on this forum about how to set up a Bultaco clutch. Click on search, choose the Bultaco heading and enter Bultaco Clutch then perform the search. Lots of threads will come up but one about trying to get one finger clutch operation on an M199 was very useful I remember and another by John Collins was also very helpful. Getting an old Sherpa clutch to be smooth starts with a strip and making sure all the components are correct and servicable then following the setups mentioned above. Just changing the plates is not the answer. If, however, you do change the plates as part of the rebuild I have 'Barnett' plates in my Alpina and Bultaco Frontera plates in my Sherpa. Both give a better clutch feel than the original I would argue. Always use a lined clutch cable (such as the Venhill cable). Tim

Great choice of bike and good to see it out in the sections where a Bultaco should be! My earliest trials memories are of Sammy Miller on a model 49 riding trials in Hampshire and Bagshot. Loved them ever since and now also own one (which is in the TC Garage). Good luck with the rebuild. There are lots of Bultaco owners on here who will help out with any queries. Tim

here is a breakdown of all the codes for NGK plugs http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/ngkjpg.htm

The blue I used was old paint colour -Ford 'electric blue' - and powder coat (frame) was either RAL 5015 or 5017. If you compare RAL chart to an original Bultaco item one of them is a very close match.

Hi - As stated, you can leave the outer bushes in if there is no play in the swing arm. If there is drift them out and replace with bronze bush & spindle set - not the plastic ones. Remember to clean out the grit from within the swingarm and headstock before reassembling. I used to have the powder coaters blast the frame but the grit they tend to use is very aggressive and one frame came back minus the frame number! Now I blast them myself as not only do I use a fine abrasive but I get into all the nooks and crannies so I don't end up with powder coated mud at the frame joints. Also make sure to thoroughly degrease as the powder coating process uses heat and any bearing grease (headstock, swingarm) will run out and ruin the finish. Check the RAL code of the silver the contractor intends (he will have a RAL colour chart to compare) to use and tell them not to just hang it with any old silver items going through the oven. The Bultaco silver has a high silver opacity (almost metallic) so look at the RAL colour chart and agree a code before handing frame over. Somewhere I have a code for the silver but sorry, cannot find it at the moment.

Here are some photos of my 221. Originaly the tank was ally and the seat was slightly different but the colour scheme is correct.

Before Big John gets in on the act - A model 221 is a 175cc (which is good news as the 125 is very underpowered). There is a comparison article about them on the classic trial page here http://www.classictrial.co.uk/magtest.html. They were produced in 1979 and only had 175cc engines in the UK (you can have a lot of arguments about this as all the model lists on the internet say the 221 is a 125). If you need a new piston the skirt on some replacment pistons needs trimming to avoid fouling the crank at BDC. I rebuilt one so if you have any queries just ask.