amcq46

coxy, I am in the UK and am using one of the Lipse spring that Jack Hemmingway manufactures [see laser1 reply] on my 2006 250 pro. i fitted it as my clutch has always been stiffer than every other GG Pro I have tried, and I have done all the same checks as you. New Clutch pack - set to correct pack AND finger height as defined by Factory Kev at GGUK - no change New seals and o-rings in slave cylinder - no change New master cyl seals - no change New Fluid [mineral oil obviously] - No change I even fitted the larger diameter clutch hose [even though I couldnt understand how this would help] - No change So I got one of Jacks machined down springs, and it made a big change to the lever effort, but it had clutch slip in 4th & 5th [and some times in 3rd if the oil was old]. based on that I got Jack to make one slightly thicker, and that is the one I use today and that only slips in top gear if the ATF oil is getting old. When I get back home I can check my notes and confirm the thickness of both washers, and you can get Jack to make you one, or if you are interested, I can send you the thinner one I have for you to try for your self. Send me a PM with your contact details if interested.

well, I did Hawkstone park on sunday, and no new noises despite a hot & hard trial, so it looks like I got away with any further damage. Thanks for advise

There used to be a place known as "Tommys Farm" just outside Rhayder [mid Wales], that had about 500 acres of hill farm and would allow you to camp. We used to go there with the enduro bikes, and there would be more than enough for all levels of trials, but a) it is in the middle of nowhere, and the camping facilities were limited to "put your tent where ever you like in that field full of cows". But it was a great place to play, but I am not sure what the crack is now. I had a quick look on the web and found this as a starter for you. http://wikimapia.org/10834940/Toms-Farm-Off-Road-Track Toms Farm (Nr. Rhayader - Cwmderw Farm) - Contact Tom on 01597 870202 (pay & play farm track) Postcode LD6 5NB as it isn't the easiest to locate!

Many thanks for all the replies. The advice has given me confidence to keep running it unless it starts to make noises. here hoping it stays quiet!

Having had a very poor ride today at the Earl Shilton trial, I decided to wash the bike in the river, and I managed to find a section of river that was much deeper than usual [i guess all the rain should have been a clue!] and filled the airbox with water. The engine was running when the airbox filled, but only at idle and it died instantly. I have emptied the airbox, dried the filter, drained the carb, taken the plug out and kicked it over [slowly at first incase it was full of water, which it wasn't] to clean it out. With a new plug it started after about 30 kicks, and I let it get warm and have run it up and down the road at half power to try and dry out any water remaining in the crank area. At this point it is running OK and no abnormal noises. After that I have dropped the gearbox oil as this was showing signs of water [ATF was pink not red], and sprayed lots of WD40 down the plug hole with the piston at BDC and the bike leaning both left & then right to ensure the WD40 was going down both transfer ports in the hope that it would get down to the mains. Then I have slowly kicked teh engine over to distribute the WD40. So the main question is .........What should I do next? Is it OK to keep riding it or should I consider a top end strip down to inspect further?

As HAM2 says, there is an eccentric adjuster under the clutch which sets the null position of the shift lever by moving the double sided return spring fixing point. it is easy to do and there are good instructions on other posts in these forms.

Training started today step 1 - no throttle & high idle speed.........passed with flying colours, even got her using the front brake and 2nd gear and clutch slipping tight u turns with feet down. step 2 - normal idle, limited action throttle........bit scared at first, but again got is sussed step 3 - try and stand up when riding........again got the hang of it even though she did have to take care not to open teh throttle as she sat down again. so nothing bad to dent her confidence today..........will try more standing tomorrow.

Tombo, photos of the seat bodge as requested Told you it was a farmyard job, but the internal cut outs are tapered like the tank and rear fender, so it is pretty well locked in place ! You can also see the engine kill string - all very hightech

Based on the input from you all the TXT250 pro is now kitted out for rider training with: A seat cut & shaped from 3" building insulation foam block [done with a rip saw, so looks a bit farmyard, but it is rigid & stable platform] A string lanyard to the +ve terminal of the kill switch And a throttle restrictor made from a piece of fuelpipe slit in half length ways and put in the lower section of the twist grip housing so it acts to stop the twistgrip at an early angle . The limit can be adjusted depending on how long I cut the fuel pipe, but is set for about 5 degrees rotation on a slow action throttle tube at present. I will disconnect the throttle cable and use a high tickover to start with, and then when the cable is back on, at least I know she cant yank the throttle open in a panic and fly through the garden fence!. Only need it to stop raining now and give it a try! Thanks for the inspiration

Odgie, I have to agree with Graham on your website mate......one in the eye for all the PC brigade, and great fun to read. .........it took me back to my mispent youth, and then made me realise that I clearly wasnt trying hard enough! Did you also do a couple of articles in Trail Bike Magazine many years ago, I have a dim recolection of a BSA scrambler with a cracked piston

Hoogle, on the 2005, I think you have 2 options: 1) as JSE said, the 06 had a thinner Belville spring [clutch spring on a GG] than the 05, so your dealer should be able to sort you out with the newer part which I think is 10% less stiff. 2) Get the LiPSE spring from Jack in the USA, and although he would custom machine it to suit your bike, skill, weight, it would be at least 10% lower than the 2006. I am very happy with the change the LiPSE made to my bike, and at least 1 of my mates also bought one after trying my bike, and has the same good report.

Some great advise so far from dads & lads, many thanks. I think I will try her on my 250pro using Tom's high tickover trick, and see if she gets to grips with the basics and can progress to standing up. I am still thinking how I can rig up a seat, and limit the throttle movement to prevent any panic reactions, but I have an old throttle housing which I am sure I can make some mods to and sort that out. If she gets through that we can see if a big wheel 80 or a 125 comes up locally, and go from there. Any other comments are more than welcome, as the ones so far have been very helpfull

I had a similar issue on my 06, and I changed the o-rings, fitted the large diameter hose and replaced the plates and set the finger height to spec......................it made almost not change! What I then did was to get one of these skimmed clutch springs .clutch spring and it has been great since then. even with postage from USA it was still a cheep mod, clutch is now superlight and I dont get any clutch slip, so it could be worth a try for you.

A question to all you parents out there. My 13yr old daughter is showing an interest in learning to ride a bike and getting into trials, but as she has never riden any kind of motorcycle before I am not sure what best to start her on. Although she is tall, she is not very heavy or strong, so I guess lighter and easy to start is important. main thoughts / questions: 1) Clearly one of the auto clutch bikes would be much easier for her to learn on, but are they too small for a tall 13yr old, and would she out grow it too quick? - which are the best auto options for her size and lack of skill? 2) Are TY80's already too small for a 13yr old, or too restricted in what they can do to let her both learn then perhaps progress to white route? 3) if not a 50 auto, or a TY80, what are the other options? I am not sure if this is a real passion and that she would want to progress to competition, or just a try out then get bored [or frightened], so I dont want to throw too much money at it, but I do want to let her have a go and see if she enjoys it. Any advise from those who have been in the same situation with sons / daughters?

From my history with Betas, there was one other weakness. You should also check for any water leaks or corrosion on the joint between the main clutch side cover and the water pump housing. it is know for the coolant to eat into the casting [i think it is reacting with the magnesium content, even if you use the correct coolants] from the inside and eventually undermine the o-ring seal. If there is even the slightest weep on the bottom of the waterpump it is likly this is happening, then it will need a new clutch cover casting. Other than that I was happy with my Beta when I had it. Carb didnt leak and Stator didnt fail!

Hi, I sent your photos to a mate of mine who has a ducati desmo 250 road bike, and he replied: "It is a ducati tank, as is, probably from an earlier 200cc. The hump near the 'nads' isn't quite as steep as on mine and the securing feature on the tank rear is different to the 2 lugs. The shape looks correct, as does the filler cap. Mine has a flared seam around the front edge. Having said all of that there is nothing to say mine is geniune ducati, there were probably a lot of pattern parts around in the '70s." He did then ask if you were looking to sell the tank, as his has corroded badly and he is looking for options to get his bike back on the raod. Send a PM if you want more info on the Ducati, as my mate likes nothing better than taking old bikes apart and putting them into cardboard boxes, or if there are bits for sale he may be able to trade AMQ

I found that the only way to get the sump gaurd back on my old 2003 Beta was to : 1) put back bolts in but dont fully tighten down [try to get at least 5 threads into the nut so they can take serious load] 2) fit all the rubbers and ensure they are in correct place. 3) using a ratchet tie down strap round the frame, plus a length of 2"x2" wood between the strap and the front of the sump plate. pull the strap up as tight as possible till the front mounts are close enough to the frame to fit the bolts, if there is still too big a gap, then use the leverage on the 2x2 to further manipulate the front of the sump plate into the correct position. 4) tighten all bolts and jobs done. If your sump gaurd is bent, this is the only way to get it on, and it becomes a one man job thanks to the ratchet strap. Good luck

D.Sileo, Thanks for joining the discussion. As someone who has used one of these replica parts I would be interested in more information on your experience. How long have you been using it, what bike you fitted it to, how it compared to standard carburation, were you able to specify the carb with the correct slide for your bike [as I know these alone cost

Dan, My instinct is the same as yours, there is probabaly a drawback with taking the low cost solution in that you get what you pay for, but there are more and more exceptions nowadays as the products from some areas of Asia Pacific manufacture grow in quality. I started the thread as I have found, via my day job, that it is wrong to assume that all Asia Pacific Low Cost Countries cant achieve european quality levels [Korean car makers with 5 year warranty are one of many examples I could use], but clearly as with many of the low cost, low end pit bikes, or replica watches, there is also a good chance that these carbs are rubbish. I am sure I am not alone in looking at them and wondering if this is a viable option, hence I am interested in some first hand feedback from anyone who has tested the parts so we can share the experiences across these global forums.

Has anyone tried the Thailand Replica Carbs being sold on e-bay? like this, item number 120198349467 Price looks good, but as with any copy I would be concerned about the quality and accuracy of machining so I am interested if anyone has taken the plunge on a GG or other makes, and if they were happy with the product?

I have one fitted to my GasGas 250 since the dirt bike show. The old one was bent [well the screws and the cover plate were], so I thought I would give it a go. Findings: The rubber is much harder, so no problem with wear, the profile is lower and there is no protruding bolt heads so less risk of catching rocks, plus the bolts and construction is thicker and stronger so it will not bend. It is double the price of the standard, but I think it should last longer in the rocks, and as I have replaced 2 of the standard ones in 2 years, I am hoping this will pay back. So far no problems.

Sorry mate, I have no other knowledge about the seat, I found it when searching e-bay for trials bits, but had logged onto USA site by mistake. I can sadly admit that I use a bag of straw [from pet shop] and some bungy straps & tank tape as a seat when I convert the trials bike to teach my kids how to ride a motorbike. its not pretty, but it worked! I guess that you will get laughed at with a straw seat, but as the only trials bike at the enduro they may laugh anyway. send a picture of the finished item, I may copy it as my kids are embarassed by the straw.

saw the answer on e-bay [id number 280095320398], but it is in USA and $119 [plus shipping!] trials bike comfy seat

Denny, I am very interested to know if the de-coke or higher octain fuel fixed the original problem? My 2003 Beta will also pink heavly when on a light load and 1/8th throttle opening. The bike is new to me and I found the air screw was 1/4 turn out when I got it. I moved the air screw back to stock 1 1/2 turns, the rest of the jetting is stock, and I use super unleaded mixed at 70:1 with an NGK #5 plug. I plan to try it next time with the air screw back in to 1/4 turn, but interested to hear if de-coke was needed on your bike.