jza

Well im 120kilos - and i set the preload to 8.5 cms and it does pogo (that much LOL)... As a bare minimum make sure the shock doesnt bottom out when you sit on the airbox... that'll work better.... Jza

Snapped a pinky finger on rocks - put me out of action for 3 months - still not right I have fallen off lots learing the ropes - have just bought knee and elbow/forearm pads.. will wear when practising. At my age (37) a broken knee or elbow wont heal quick so i figured the minimum i can do is cover up my joints. Having worn both yesterday for the first time - apart from feeling a bit "weird" dont think it impared my riding. I find it weird that trials riders never cover up yet jump around on rocks etc... one fall and your going to snap something. Jza

I've just posted in the General Talk section on the very subject.... Rear sag. After extensive research i have opted for 7.5 cms (3 inches) of static rear sag. I'd been driving around with WAY too much sag and having rode the new and improved bike i cant get over how much better it handles. I also upped the compression a notch at the front and the front defo doesnt dive as much dropping off rocks. Defo worth playing around (2 inches rear 3 at back is what i now have and im happy that im not going to need to fiddle anymore). The rebound and compression setting are more of a black art to a novice like me - but as i said, one click at the top has made the front forks less likey to bottom out over drops.... but i'd say only do one click at a time with these or you might get yourself in knots (whereas preload i basically reduced the sag by half in one spanner session )

Postage and packings gonna be a nightmare

I know people are gonna say "bloody beginner" but i had to laugh. I finally manage to borrow a C Spanner and got a tape measure out. For the record im 18 stone (i.e. chunky). The guy i bought the bike of weighs 10 stone. You can probably guess where this is going..... 14cms static sag at the rear Thinking about it - the bike did bottom out when i'd sit on it having a breather So i got the spanners out and its now a much healthier 7.5cm which im told is about right for a beginner.... And boy what a change. I have rear suspension movement now LOL And the difference.... first thing i noticed (as i did it in the car park straight away) was i can now do a stoppie without trying. Just grab the front brake and the rear lifts on it own like magic. If i bounce the bike - i actually hop a bit. I guess thinking about it the bike was just bottoming out as i pushed down LOL Next the rocks.... wheel up as usual - but whats this - the bash plate doesnt crash onto the lip and im up and over nice and easy:D Then i go up the hills.... theres one hilly section at my local club where i always spin the rear and fall off. I thought lets give it a go. So i line up - go for it.... up i go no issues. No spinning up just drive. I've been riding the bike for 9 months now and it's fair to say that whilst im never going to be a Dougie or Adam or Tony, im gonna find life a lot easier on my white routes and improve much quicker. So get the tape measure out and play with those C Spanners Jza

I'm not sure if this bits right? : The basic settings are as follows: First, the rear sag should be set in the following manner - lift the bike and place it on a box (be sure the rear wheel is off the ground). Next, measure from two points (I usually use the rear axle and the fender bolt.). You should get a measurement of approximately 28 to 30 inches (The actual measurement is not important, but remember what it is). Now, take the bike off the box and place the end of the handlebar against a wall (for your balance) and t'then stand on the bike. The rear of the bike will now sag under your weight. Ask a friend to now measure from the same two points, with you still on the bike. There should be approx. 2 inches of sag. Surely there will be a normal amount if sag just from putting the bike on the floor with the rear tyre touching down. Shouldn it be 2 inches of sag from the bike on the floor to on the floor and you on it?

Have to say mine does exactly the same....

Any tips for how you get the lip of the new oil filter go past that big round silver disc thingy thats situated perfectly to prevent you replacing it ??? It was a bugger on the way out but JEEZ The only way i think i can do it is to bend the lip of the filter? There just isnt enough room surely? Jza

I've had a go on a 4RT with a "soft" map - i thought it was great for tight sections and mud... I've also ridden a 4RT with a tuned map that was used by an expert and made the throttle feel like an on/off switch (boy did it wheelie well) and was great for him (hopper and jumper type rider) but defo not for me. But would miss my normal semi-grunty standard map - so i guess my advice would be to get one map that works for your general riding (not some super harsh one) and then a softer map as above. I wouldn't want two extremes i dont see the point. Jza

So these people turn up on a sunday morning to sit and watch us lot splash around in the mud. Its often raining an/or miserable. They could stay in bed ad watch the motogp or something. Rather than let us down they make the effort to support us on our favourite sport and make it possible for us to play. So they mess up... We dont pay them.. how can we fine them? Do you want these people to walk away from the sport.....? Tell them if they mess up they'll be fines for their efforts... That'll do it. Utter madness

Hey up Well i've cracked it - thanks for the advice guys. The key was to bend zee knees and move my a*** over the outside of the turn - leaning back a bit as i did it - with my inside arm kept straight so as to weight the outside bar. The front then tracked round nicely.... I still fell off of course - but did do it a few times and when it works i can "feel" the difference... so big thanks to everyone i can go and practise this now Jza

Pivot turns LOL Nope not up to hopping about and endo's so i'll try and do the weight and pushing on the outside bar... Thanks for the advice cheers

LEGENDS Checked the bolts on the brace - were tight... undid them, jiggled about (the brace not me) and re-tightened... NO PING!!!!! You guys are the best Cheers! Jza

Hey up! I'm struggling and wanted to understand the correct technique so i can practise and get it right Rookie mistake im sure It involves slopes I've come down a gully on a steep slope. Say 12ft high. At the bottom, i have to turn immediately and go back up the slope (up the next gully/other side of tree i came down past). I can get the bike round the "U" ok ish..(im semi pointing up the hill but not completely there) but at the point where im starting to go up hill with the bike still turning (bikes not completely straight up the hill yet) and i need gas to drive up the hill, if i open the throttle and the front pushes out and i dab. This is on wet or dry surfaces. I can on occasions get it right - but no idea why. If i try more gas - i do a motorcross style semi donut and then dab It seems that the front has no grip as i turn up the hill... and the back gets loose if im over enthusiastic Anyone help? Jza

Can anyone diagnose this issue? Got on bike yesterday... Noticed that if i rock the forks up and down... or when the front wheel is bounced off the ground (up and down) there is a metalic "ping" or "crack" noise coming from around yolks/head stock thingy. When riding i could hear/feel it most as i rode downhill... just the odd ping here and there. You can feel this slightly through the handlebars too. The steering feels fine - no notchiness when turning the forks left or right its smooth as always. I have checked the handlebar bolts (perfect) and all the bolts are tight on the yolk/forks. Theres no play in the bit bolt under the handlebars either. It was dead hot at the time if thats of any interest. Any ideas what this could be - and if so is this something i can fix or is it off to the shop time? Cheers in advance Jza

Montesa COTA 4RT Love mine to death.. proven bit of kit.. bags of grunt... stability... easy to maintain Jza

Nah.... I'm gonna boo him and shout "retire now you old git"

I wanted to ask.... if it all works do you need to replace plugs? Isn't it a case of replace when you have an issue? Jza

Dude, THATS AWESOME!!! I love the wheels... Truly MontePimped I must say.. id put it in a glass case and never ride it.... thats ART Jza

Hey guys, Your all right - its a 24mm spanner LOL i measured it with a ruler it looked like 23mm LOL I've managed to get the rear axle out, whack the plate back on (what a bugger of a job) the chain, fit it and re-set the snails to the correct tension. I didnt even swear once either Without you all i'd have failed.... i can now go out tomorrow and enjoy the floods Thanks to everyone for their help Jza

Thats the next fun thing.... I dont have a 23mm spanner in my toolbox that i need to losen the nut so i can roll the snail cams I went to two shops this AM and "we dont sell 23mm spanners just 22mm and 24mm".... im riding tomorrow am (that was the plan) so was hoping for a miracle that wouldnt need me to losen rear axle

I'm sure theres an easy solution. Took the chain off for first time to replace the rubber chain tensioner. I put it back on the bike - but i cant get the chain ends to line up so i can put the pins back in. No matter how hard i pull - im 3 mm off. There's got to be a method to this.. anyone? One day i'll look back at these posts and think "what a numpty" Jza

Clunk.... clank..... clank..... Yep mine does that too. If you grab the disc - you can move it on the posts - hence the term "floating disc"

Can i just say - for the first 2 months of doing trials - i had exactly the same issue... absolutely knackered hands and forearms just as you said... I used to get hand pain after a few hundred miles on my road bike... Now - if i have a few weeks off it comes back - but im used to it by now so i reckon the problems to do with your muscles just arent up to the job Keep at it. Jza