larro

Well after after a few months on this project bike trying to sort out / make better i finally found a 2014 head for this bike and what a difference with the compression. Now i can kick the engine over and not stress me or other parts out in the process. It is a joy to start now especially with the 9 volt system that was on the bike but even that needed the wiring completely renewing and soldering properly. Still sorting out the suspension link with the help from Lotus on here and have to try and sort out the K-scan. The front forks needed sorting and found that the compression leg had a gouge in it so had to find another but found a second hand set with a good leg so managed to make a good set from both sets. There has been a few more jobs on the bike which i have been sorting out so nearly finished and maybe can get out sometime this year and am sure something will break when i do use it. Thanks for peoples input and reading my posts.

Tesla sales are not

Regarding the clutch pack and the way it has to be measured. The metal plates we can measure individually as with the clutch plates but one of the metal plates can not be manipulated and that is the one that is part of the basket ( machined) isn't it. What if there are baskets were the tolerances are out of spec just enough for it to cause problems or make the clutch too thick when it is all bolted into the basket.

Ok Mark. Ta.

Yes i did mention it in an earlier post. I can feel that the play is in the 20mm pin which is new and the bushes are new.

Thanks to all that contributed.

Hello Mark. All new parts and never been ridden. The damper bush is tight. That is why i asked about you Ti set up and maybe the tolerance is better than what i have.

Thank you for your combined input. The bike was second hand so was expecting things to be fixed. The clutch was/is a problem from the first time i started the engine as straight away it dragged as explained above. I changed the mineral oil in the master and expelled all the air and the lever felt good after but it still dragged. New motor oil and new clutch and the old clutch seemed ok and the pack measured the same as the new one so i was disappointed that the new clutch did not fix this problem. I was going to change the master cylinder fluid to magura royal blood as konrad mentioned but i cant see that stopping the dragg. He has also said that the cluch is not disengaging properly so i don't know. The thing is how many oils is someone supposed to try. Thanks.

Hello. Yes i did read that section and measured the pack and it measured 9.8 from points around the pack so presumed that was a good pack from Xiu-rdi. I read a section on here about clutches and there was an Ossa owner saying the same about these clutches and how he fitted one and he was happy with the way it worked.

Hello and thanks for the input. I an using the oil you suggested and it also says on the bottle ( clutch optimised ). It seems to me that the activation of the clutch parts maybe do not give enough movement to properly disengage the drive. Anybody have the same problem. Ta

Hello. What was the verdict on this dragging problem. The clutch on my 2013 tri drags and trying to get it into neutral is a pain but with the engine cut it is sweet. I replaced the clutch and fluid and the lever feels good but it has done nothing when the engine is running. when the engine is running it runs sweet but when i managed to get it in gear the engine strains you can hear the different engine tone and it creeps forward. I thought trials is about control but with this problem i am straight away losing some of that control. Any input thanks.

Nice. Is there any play in this set up or from the factory. When my bike is on the stand with the suspension relaxed if i go to lift the bike back off the stand using the wheel the wheel will slightly lift before the bike does. I have pinpointed the slack and replaced the pin and all the bushes but there is still play in that area. Is there play from new with the factory setup. Thank you.

Very well done there. Pictures of a procedure really helps the understanding.👍

Thanks kurtas. How did you get around the compression on the 2013. Because on mine it is just solid sometimes and have to really jump on the kick lever and that is just going to cause something else to break surely. Is there a way to kicking these engines over as i have never had this before and it just does seem right.

Thanks for the reply. Yes i have seen this section on the heads it also describes how it puts the exhausts outlet out of position so more messing about.