larro

Well after after a few months on this project bike trying to sort out / make better i finally found a 2014 head for this bike and what a difference with the compression. Now i can kick the engine over and not stress me or other parts out in the process. It is a joy to start now especially with the 9 volt system that was on the bike but even that needed the wiring completely renewing and soldering properly. Still sorting out the suspension link with the help from Lotus on here and have to try and sort out the K-scan. The front forks needed sorting and found that the compression leg had a gouge in it so had to find another but found a second hand set with a good leg so managed to make a good set from both sets. There has been a few more jobs on the bike which i have been sorting out so nearly finished and maybe can get out sometime this year and am sure something will break when i do use it. Thanks for peoples input and reading my posts.

Tesla sales are not

Regarding the clutch pack and the way it has to be measured. The metal plates we can measure individually as with the clutch plates but one of the metal plates can not be manipulated and that is the one that is part of the basket ( machined) isn't it. What if there are baskets were the tolerances are out of spec just enough for it to cause problems or make the clutch too thick when it is all bolted into the basket.

Ok Mark. Ta.

Yes i did mention it in an earlier post. I can feel that the play is in the 20mm pin which is new and the bushes are new.

Thanks to all that contributed.

Hello Mark. All new parts and never been ridden. The damper bush is tight. That is why i asked about you Ti set up and maybe the tolerance is better than what i have.

Thank you for your combined input. The bike was second hand so was expecting things to be fixed. The clutch was/is a problem from the first time i started the engine as straight away it dragged as explained above. I changed the mineral oil in the master and expelled all the air and the lever felt good after but it still dragged. New motor oil and new clutch and the old clutch seemed ok and the pack measured the same as the new one so i was disappointed that the new clutch did not fix this problem. I was going to change the master cylinder fluid to magura royal blood as konrad mentioned but i cant see that stopping the dragg. He has also said that the cluch is not disengaging properly so i don't know. The thing is how many oils is someone supposed to try. Thanks.

Hello. Yes i did read that section and measured the pack and it measured 9.8 from points around the pack so presumed that was a good pack from Xiu-rdi. I read a section on here about clutches and there was an Ossa owner saying the same about these clutches and how he fitted one and he was happy with the way it worked.

Hello and thanks for the input. I an using the oil you suggested and it also says on the bottle ( clutch optimised ). It seems to me that the activation of the clutch parts maybe do not give enough movement to properly disengage the drive. Anybody have the same problem. Ta

Hello. What was the verdict on this dragging problem. The clutch on my 2013 tri drags and trying to get it into neutral is a pain but with the engine cut it is sweet. I replaced the clutch and fluid and the lever feels good but it has done nothing when the engine is running. when the engine is running it runs sweet but when i managed to get it in gear the engine strains you can hear the different engine tone and it creeps forward. I thought trials is about control but with this problem i am straight away losing some of that control. Any input thanks.

Nice. Is there any play in this set up or from the factory. When my bike is on the stand with the suspension relaxed if i go to lift the bike back off the stand using the wheel the wheel will slightly lift before the bike does. I have pinpointed the slack and replaced the pin and all the bushes but there is still play in that area. Is there play from new with the factory setup. Thank you.

Very well done there. Pictures of a procedure really helps the understanding.👍

Thanks kurtas. How did you get around the compression on the 2013. Because on mine it is just solid sometimes and have to really jump on the kick lever and that is just going to cause something else to break surely. Is there a way to kicking these engines over as i have never had this before and it just does seem right.

Thanks for the reply. Yes i have seen this section on the heads it also describes how it puts the exhausts outlet out of position so more messing about.

Hello. As title i really can not get on with the compression on this bike. Is there anybody with experience with other year modern Ossa bikes that found the compression on 2013 bikes unreasonable to the point of cant be a***d to try to start the bike. I believe that Ossa changed something on the later bikes or earlier ones so the compression was not so high. So if they did how can i change it to the different compression rate because how the hell are you supposed to start the bike again in the middle of a trials section with out putting your foot/ feet down. Ta

As above. These reusable clips or are they as with me doing jobs on this Ossa i have now refitted everything back together refilled fluids and have started the bike , fed up with the compression of this 2013 model , and now the two joints i had to unclip are now leaking. I had to drain the system manipulate and move pipes around and also reposition the clip a little and still they leak even left over night there are drips on the floor. Is it just my luck or are these really not reusable as i am getting fed up with things not working out with this bike. Ta

Job done. There is a technique well sort of. Ta

Thanks for the reply but it is no help. I think it is Ossa specific. Thanks

Ok thanks. This suspension set up using these brass push fit bushings do they have any lateral movement because when my bike is on its stand i can slightly lift the wheel or the rear of the swing arm and i can feel a tiny amount of lateral movement. I have replaced the bushings and greased everything an bought a new pin from Birketts and there is definite movement from the pin area. Ta

Hello here again. This spring is there a specific way of getting these things to fit. I have been trying now for an hour and all i have managed to do is end up with two fingers with plasters on as this spring has managed to cut both. Every time i try to force the spring round to get the straight part of this spring into the slot of the swing arm it just will not go in because the spring is too big to move into the round machined recess. I thought that when i force the flat part of this spring round that the spring would become smaller allowing it to fit in but it actually gets bigger??? Now this spring is new and presume that there is only one type made but i recall that they improved the design for 2014 and my bike is a 2013. Would this be the reason it will not fit. Thanks.

Nice thank you for the pics. I presume the trials bike and Explorer are the same suspension wise. Where would the grease nipples be attached. Could be tempted but a little close to Christmas don't want them stuck some were over that period. Any idea of shipping cost to the UK. Thanks.

I meant the ones you received from the company who made them. The ones you have just received. Cheers.

Any pictures of this Ti set when you are completely happy. Ta

Well as usual my bad luck has risen yet again the head of this sensor has snapped off leaving the rest of the sensor in the thread. The unit is well tight in the thread i think that a thread lock material may of been used and with the unit being plastic it was just too tight for the head not to break. The o-ring seems ok so why it was weeping i don't really know. I have mentioned before that maybe it was coming through the unit itself as where the electric connector would fit in was always damp with fuel. Anyway i have a bigger job now and am a bit stuck as which way to go. Just couldn't unscrew could it oh no. Thanks.