anotherfive

The spring on the levers is quite weak. I use an O ring just bigger than the ball on the end of the lever. push it over this and push down to adjuster wheel and stretch it over onto the second part of the lever. Makes everything feel much better and as cheap as chips to replace. Just a fiver for that thanks !!!!!

Only read half of your post (as I have low attention span ) but totally agree. Stop clubs gaining, no stop clubs loosing members and observers.. I can't hop much but APPRECIATE the skilll and aspire to do it.. I'm old but do not aspire to ride a section non stop but have to sometimes. My mates will always find fault but if you've got your feet up - no argument. Its total madness. All the poor kids who have been bouncing for fun are now not allowed to progress it. Who on earth will want to move from bike trials to motor trials - that answer is none. So lets all get on ebay and search for a nice tiger cub and move the sport forward !!!!!. Age witheld but nearer dominoes than lego !!!

Yes good advice kick through it. only ever had one kick back and I had shoes on so think your momentum has to be equal or better then the bikes.Rock it backwards in gear to get to just after tdc then go from there. Failing that bring it to Yorkshire and we'll knack it for you!!!!!

As a beginner I'd say try BUMPY at Birstall. They also have practice days at Tong offroad centre near Bradford. Join Horsforth club and you can ride their land at Horsforth.

On top of all the above there are a few things you can remove depending how your bike is positioned 1. gear lever off and bike in first gear 2.Handlebar mountings 3. Pull out front wheel spindle 4. remove clutch lever Any of the above will make the scroats think or struggle especially number 2.

Best setting for air screw will depend on what pilot jet you use. Usually ends up between one and two full turns out. Change one thing at a time but carb clean is first thing to do. Tiny bit of water can stop jets working.

Sorry this is for the Keihin Carb not sure what you have

I've had a couple of running out of petrol issues since getting my 2012 300 racing. Thought I'd check the reserve capacity by emptying the tank on both settings. 50ml for the reserve that seems miniscule and might get me from my front door to garage with a bit of luck !!!!! Took tap to bits and seems fine. Anyone disagree with my findings ?

Try a 50 pilot jet 122 main, jjh needle on fourth groove in and a mess with the air screw after that. Seems to be cock on

Are they standard wheel bearings or narrower on the gas gas. Think standard are 6004-2rs

What do they come with as standard as mines a 11/42?

If you do need parts for them where can you get them from?

i just use wd40 makes em like slippers

Going to do all the linkage bearings soon and am ok with this but can anyone run through what i need to remove on a 2012 racing after I have taken the rear wheel out ie; what about the brake line/swinging arm, airbox etc. It would be helpful if you told me the order of dismantling. Thanks ( spanner at the ready !!!)

I like these brakes but many dont and change them. Funny thing is there is never any for sale on the internet. You'd think there would be.

thanks chaps very helpful

On my gassers cluth mc it says use mineral oil and on the brake it says use only DOT 4. Are these two different oils and if so why - puzzled.

Thanks, I've now fitted it back on bike. There is a slight difference in tickover but as yet I have to notice much difference when riding - time will tell.

I've had real trouble with the carb on my new (to me) bike. Had Keihins before so went through the usual bend the tang in the carb float mounting etc etc changed the fuel jet even though rubber end looked ok. Spent all day stripping and putting bike back together to still find an intermittent flood. So when I got home checked further. Where the rubber jet stops the fuel I used a magnifying glass and looked into the hole only to see a roughish area that could have stopped the sealing off. I bedded this in by hand gently spinning a drill bit in there. The other thing I did was slightly bend the brass overflow pipe in the float bowl as I suspect this could be touching a float. This is for info for anyone else with the same issues. Fingers crossed all seems fine now - until I get 40 miles from home again of course !!!!!

I've just got a 2012 300 racing and have been given the mapping switch seperate to the bike. Two questions , firstly does it make any noticable difference and secondly what colour are the wires it plugs into. I'm also assuming it mounts on the handlebars.

Just put football markers into ebay - theres quite a few

for once this is a pretty standard bearing ( 4 ) Take your arm to a bearing dealer, cost me about 15 all in but no bush inserts

Fantastic post.Really helpful to many .10/10

Is it seized or do you think it is. Happened to me once but its a short lived rev out and fuel tends to dry up before it gets damaged. Hope it is that. Worse thing to do is pick bike up as it will then fuel up again.

No dont think so but I do go there quite a bit through the year, both for comps and practice.