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bigboi, I'll check my throttle freeplay. Thanks.

Wobbler, thanks for sharing. I recently acquired a Jumbo (350) late model assembled in the USA. Anyhow, the ball bearings on my bike are 12mm, so I got lucky. Of course, my bike already has the clutch lightener arm and I'm using an "EZ-pull" lever. Right now, it's a one finger pull, but I'm curious to using the smaller springs that you made reference to if it will make the pull lighter. I just don't want the clutch to slip with the big 350 motor. I'm in the process of installing new Rotax clutch plates (fiber and steel). I believe I'm going to need to use 6 fibers, 5 steel, and 1 steel at 1.5mm (outer). If your using stock top triple clamp, I'm using the "powermadd" handlebar riser that accepts fat bars... this makes a nice difference ergonomically, especially if you've lowered and went back with your footrests. What length shock are you using on a Jumbo? Right now, my bike has 340mm length. Regards.

I did have a "real" TRL250 (1986) that I restored, and I didn't like it, and sold it. The way my TRL200 is set up, it's much better than the relatively stock TRL250 I had. I rode a buddy's Mostesa 200 a few years ago and wanted to buy it from him... they do ride very nice.

Lineaway.... I agree! I want to ride more of my tricked out TRL200, but at the end of the day, my Bul or SWM Jumbo are the better choice if I'm concerned about competition. Heck, my 1977 TY250 that has modern updates isn't far behind my Bul and SWM for rideability. I have a Cota 349 (white wonder), with some decent mods, and I'd say that's down my list for riding, but it's a well-designed bike and I still can figure out why it doesn't ride better than it does. Thanks for the input.

Yes, bike has higher compression than standard TLR head/piston. My bike has an ATC 200X upper and should be at 9.6:1. For what it's worth, I ride at a high level for being on a vintage bike. Have several National titles on vintage bikes (USA)... it's all relative, but in general, I'm competitive at an advance level (vintage). I ride with the clutch probably way more than I need to/should. Thanks for the input! I think with more time on the bike, I'll overcome some of these initial challenges I have.

Probably a question I'll get beat up on, but I'm a new owner to a very custom TRL200 trials bike. The bike rides Extremely well, but I've always rode 2-stroke bikes (Bultacos, TY's, SWM, COTA's) and just don't like the engine braking (after throttle is shut off), as it's quite noticeable and "jerky". This is not clutch related on clutch engagement, as I already have the anit-jutter kit installed (which makes a tremendous difference). I assume lower gearing would help some, but it's already been geared down. Does anybody have any tips/tricks (besides "get used to it") or engine/head modifications? My bike has a ATC 200X head on it. p.s. I rode the TLR back-to-back against my modified Bul 199A in an intermediate to difficult vintage rolly rock section and the Bul turned it into a novice section. Thanks.

Any comment/feedback appreciated.

I recently acquired a 350 jumbo in very nice shape. It has been ridden quite a bit, so I took the top end apart. The piston and cylinder look amazingly good (I did measure with my gages and the cylinder is still within spec. for a cylinder of this size). But, the end ring gaps are about 20 -22 thou. I'm getting the piston coated with an abrasive powder coating product that they use in very high performance/horsepower engines. been doing this to all my bikes for 10 years and have had amazing results. So, does anyone know if OEM standard,1st or 2nd over piston rings are available? They would be an 82.0mm, 82.25mm or 82.50 mm... as needed, I'd file down to fit. From what I found the part numbers for a 1st over would be 215-301 and 215-351. Or, what other Rotax engines share this size? Thanks.

I'm in need of a primary pinion gear for a Cota (white wonder) 349. This is the gear that is pressed onto the main shaft that meshes with the clutch basket gear. Does anyone know if other Cota models are the same? Any leads to finding this part is much appreciated. Thank you.

I've been searching the internet for over two weeks and I can't find a lower crankrod pin, bushing or roller (bearing) for a E3342 rod (what the little Terrior used). I've found the larger crank pin, bush and roller, but not the small. I've contacted Greystone and looked on Feked, but they do not show these parts as being available. Any help would be greatly appreciated... I've got mine all torn apart and want to get it back together with new parts. Thank you.

I recently acquired a Pluma/Plonker that came from a high elevation. I live at about 1,000 ft. elevation above sea level and the bike runs too lean. The bike has a 24mm IRZ carb and I want to keep this carb on the bike. I know finding IRZ jets isn't very easy and I want to limit the number of jets I purchase. Does anyone know what jet sizes and needle clip position this carb came with or should have for a lower elevation? Currently, the carb has a 45 pilot and a 101 main jet. I could guess and get a 50 pilot and a 110 main, but like I said, would be nice to know more specifically without all the trial and error.

I made the below post a couple weeks ago and didn't get any replies. So, perhaps someone could chime-in on this follow-on question I have. A friend of mine rode Dalesman trials bikes (with PUCH motor) back in the early 1970s. He told me all three of his bikes he had (with the PUCH) all "lost" first gear and that it is nearly impossible/very difficult to fix; I assume what's happening is that the first gear teeth break off the spline. He tells me this is a very common problem with the PUCH 125cc motors in the trials bikes. Besides not riding the bike, does anyone have a suggestion that could reduce the chances from this happening? I was thinking of preserving the 125cc PUCH motor and placing a 175cc PUCH motor in the bike. Thanks. I recently purchased a Dalesman with Puch motor; I believe the Trials model. I've searched the internet intently to find some basic information about the Dalesman and motor, but not finding what I need. I'm looking for basic service information (or website references) such as oil type and quantity, ignition setting/servicing, fork oil amount, OEM rear shock length, etc. and where to get Puch engine parts (if needed). Although I will keep as original as possible, it would be nice to know what, if any, after market items can be installed on the bike, such as carburator upgrade, ignition replacement parts, etc. Forks are 35mm, but has no lower fixing points for a lower mudguard. Thanks in advance for any replys.

I do have another tank and willing to sell. send me a private message or let me know gow to contact you and we can discuss.

Here's a couple pictures.

I ran across an old OSSA here in the USA and I need help identifying exactly what it is...I just can't figure it out. The owner says it's been sitting in storage for 30 years and was told the bike is all original. The handle bars mount to the top fork yoke with U-bolts. The Frame number is B251002 and the engine number is M250154. I'm leaning towards it being a 1967 Pioneer based on the engine number and the large front hub, the rest of the bike looks like a Pluma/Plonker. Any help is appreciated. I'll try to post pictures...I don't have any right now.