ianwilson

Thanks Duggan, I followed your advice regarding removal of the back wheel and linkage and found that the bottom dogbone bearings were dry having never had grease on . The long bolt was also extremenly tight. When I loosened it off the whole linkage seem to go very smooth so I Just greased the bearings and put it all together .Hey presto squeak gone and rear suspension very smoth.

How was it easily fixed?

I thought that all Gasgas owners would be well versed with the benefits of superglue to put the bits back on that fall off every outing!

I have the 250 rather than 290 but have tried both and prefer the 250. Ive had every year Beta rev 3 since 04 and it is the first one which does ride majorly different from the last. Plus points. Turns very well but the bars need to be forward to keep the front light. Rear suspension is very plush and rides for me best with a bit of preload and damper right off ( im no superstar over the big stuff so im talking medium rocks and logs here) so no more spine judders if you timing is off when attemping a rock step. Front suspension very plush and smooth. Gearbox has very light change and you get a positive click( almost as good as a Mont. !) Brakes supposed to be the same but mine are definately sharper. I think pads are a different coumpound but squeal like a banshee when wet Engine will pull with the slightest of throttle and never shows signs of bogging even when you stop start on steep inclines. Starts with the slightest of kicks unlike my 07 270. Minus points Front end seems over soft as travel is non linear but is plush when you get used to it. Rear vents in mudguard allow water to run straight into the filter.( easily fixed by sealing them up with a bit of silicone as recommended by lampkins). Once sealed the filter stays cleaner than the REV 3 Rear swinging arm bushes squeak unless you soak in spray lube( may ease off in time as mines only got about 15 hours on it) Footpegs are rubbish and changing for something aftermarket is a must. Idle screw is made of soft plastic like 08 but jitsie make a nice alloy one. The throttle cable runs through a sharp edged egine mount and cuts through the cable outer in no time at all. I fixed mine with a bit of inner tube supurglued over the edge. The shock you get through the wrists if your triple clamp makes contact with the frame on full lock is unbeleivable. I fixed mine with a small bit of inner tube glued either side on the bottom clamp. Overall Im very pleased with it and it really is a new bike rather than the old one with tweaks. The tank has not been a problem but I would definately fill up every lap if the trial was a long one. The 290 is not for all due to the delivery of the mid and top end power. It feels much more powerful than the 08 270 . It depends on your ability buts it definately too much for me. Hope this helps

Thats spot on. Its well worth pulling the rest of the redundant wiring to rear light out also. The RM killswitch from Apico comes with a ring terminal on ready so you just need replace the bullet connector from the switch with a spade to match the black wire. If your careful you can just get a small black tie wrap through the lugs of the switch and discard the metal clips which lets you central mount on the fat bars. nice neat job and a half kilo of plastic , wiring and dodgy switch removed .

It just Dawned on me . Are you using a fairly large syringe. It needs a fair bit of force to blast the fluid through.

Bleeding beta rear brakes defies normal logic but the following is the only way i have managed to do it. 1. Remove the rear mudguard. 2. Undo the bolt which holds the rear brake fluid reservoir. 3. Disconnect the rear brake reservoir pipe which goes to the master cylinder. 4. Connect a syringe full( air removed) of brake fluid to the pipe. 5. Attach a length of tubing to the rear brake bleed nipple into a jar or container. 6. Remove the operating rod from the brake pedal that pushes the piston into the master cylinder( remove the retaining pin and clip). 7. Open the rear brake bleed nipple and press fluid through using the syringe. It should flow fairly easily as the circuit is fully open. 8. When clean fluid and no air is coming through close the bleed nipple. 9. Reconnect the operating rod and pin , reconnect the reservoir full of fluid to the pipe feeding the master cylinder and try the brake. It should now work. If it does not repeat the process again. Many people claim a quick success with back bleeding by forcing from the bleed nipple back to the reservoir but I have spent ages trying with no success. The method above takes a few minutes and normally works. If it does not and you are confident that the seals in the master cylinder are in right and the piston moves freely you may want to replace the pistons and seals in the rear brake caliper which is fairly easy and with parts available from Lampkins as a kit for around

Cheers . I will stick it on and see how it goes at the weekend.

Looking to fit an Akro front pipe to an 08 REV 3 250. Do you need to re-jet ?

Have one of the trialcast protectors fitted to my 08 rev3. It was fitted to my 07 also. Fits well in minutes and seems to reduce the rapid wear on the boots. Make sure you use loctite on the bolt though as it comes loose easily if you dont.

Just fixed a problem on an 07 250. The fan only worked when revs were off tickover. The cause was the black box as described previously was not mounted on the bolt behind the radiator. It seems to earth through the mounting bolt and was sparking. Once reconnected it worked fine. The bike has not been a great starter from cold bot now seems to be.