charliechitlins

BUMMER! Try bleeding the master by itself. This is done by disconnecting the hose at the master, and pumping the master with your finger pushed firmly over the hole where the hose goes in. Sometimes it's the only way to get that little bit of air out. Keep the piston in while you re-connect the line. I sure would like to know how they do it at the factory!

Silicone and other forms of gasket goo can do this very easily. I've seen THICK pieces of cast aluminum break off as if they were supposed to! Very important to keep goo (and blast media) out of blind holes.

High temp paint can be bought at auto parts stores. Barbecue or wood/coal stove paint works, too. It doesn't like to be handled after painting. I get the part good and hot with a torch, then spray on the paint.

It'seen a while since I've been in one of those, but... Doesn't the shift shaft come through and have some mechanism on the right side, near the kicker gears? The kicker gears and spring can be a little tricky, and something may be interfering with your shifter.

Thanks, guys. Uncle Dabster's TT#767 will go into effect and become UCTT#843. You didn't think I came up with all of them myself, did you? And I did have the mud pushing my feet off! Things were so slimey I couldn't even shift. The pedal just folded. An interesting day of riding!

Right....brake hose inside the swingarm... might be time to throw a rope over a tree limb and hoist that bad boy up Maybe removing the swingarm is a better idea.

Today was the first time in my 3-year Sherco love affair that I felt let down. I was riding in some very gooey river mud and it kept loading up under my front fender and stopping the wheel from turning. It was very infuriating. My riding buddy with "other" brand was convinced that this was due to: a) My crappy riding, leading to a reluctance to go fast enough, and The fact that the fork brace is under the fender and the edge of it catches mud. He said his TL125 used to do the same thing. TL125!?!?!? My Sherco compared to a TL125?!!? Them's fightin' words! Whatever it is, his bike didn't have a problem. Of course, this led to all kinds of unkind words about what kind of bike I SHOULD have bought.... Can anybody help me save face and fix this problem?

Interesting! As I had said, I didn't have any direct experience with this, but there was a time (could have been many years ago) that folks were doing this, and under the impression that it helped. Most recently, I heard it in relation to a very small-bore kid's bike in need of more grunt.

If you're pumping the pedal, you always open and close the nipple while the pedal is fully depressed. Even after you've done everything right, it'll tale a few pumps to get any pedal because the pistons in the caliper have to come out and contact the disk. When using the syringe, I always keep fluid in it, and as I put the hose on the bleeder (whith the hose just in contact with the bleeder) I pump out a little fluid as I stick the hose on. This way, there is fluid in the hose, so, when you crach the bleeder, if anything gets sucked in, it's fluid...not air. I always close the bleed nipple as I'm working the syringe (working the syringe with one hand and closing the bleeder with the other). I don't know if it reduces chances of sucking air, but I've been doing it that way for years, and it makes me feel better. The trial and error can come in when you're figuring out if it's better to push or pull the fluid. Front brakes respond better to pushing the fluid up from the bleeder. (No point in trying to pull air down and out when it wants to go up). This means you'll have to keep removing fluid from the master or it will overflow. Rear brakes are trickier because air can get trapped in high spots in the hose. I've heard of people hanging bikes by a wheel to get the hose vertical. I prefer to unbolt the caliper and hang IT.

I think Tomaselli is the same as Domino. Sherco uses them.

I've probably dropped a hundred floats in a can of cleaning fluid, to see how they float. I do it every time I strip a carb. Every so often one doesn't float as high as it should. Ususlly old ones, though. It comes with the turf. Get a new one. In a pinch, you can put some epoxy or tank sealer on them, but it adds weight and can be tricky.

Get a big ol' syringe from the horse vet and use it to push/suck fluid instead of pumping the pedal. Stick a piece of rubber hose on with safety wire.

Oh, boy...here we go.

Chances are you've added brake fluid over time to make up for the fluid that took up the space behind the piston as the pads wore. Now that extra fluid has to go. I'd take the top off the master and take out a little fluid to make room for what's going to come up, rather than cracking the bleeder and allowing air to enter. You might also consider removing the sealing boot and checking if the piston has a ring of rust/crud that you're about to push through the seal. If so, you can pop out the piston with a few pumps of the pedal and clean it up with some fine emery.

Gasoline will eventually perish the filter and you may begin to suck bits of it into the engine. It could also attack the glue that holds the seams together and one could open up while riding. Dawn dishwashing liquid works great. Cuts oil/grease. If you're cheap, even some cheap motor oil on the filter is much better than nothing.

That's getting a little personal, isn't it?

Fanny=a***=bum Derriere, for Scorpa riders.

In general, I've found that the cheapest brake pads made of the softest material and work best. They just wear out faster, which isn't such a big deal on a bike made to go 2 mph.

Anybody know if there's a US distributor for Mitas tires? Where are they made?

I thought it was interesting that the counter registered almost 1600 views when I checked it out. I didn't think there were that many trials riders on Earth.

Second on the GG 80. Great bike. It seems so low on power, but with an 80 pounder on it, it grunts right up hills like my bike does with me on it. We love it.

Anybody remember solid aluminum bars? Hey...even steel bars...I think the weight difference between the steel ones I had on my TY and the Dominoes on my Sherco could be offset by streamlining my tool roll and getting a haircut.

You're a real card, aren't you, Robison? I'll do the jokes around here! Yeah...the old arm whips. Any real biker will tell you that fringe is a waste of good leather...and might cause to get your butt pinched by somebody named Kevin. Jeeze...I had to sell that stuff when I had a shop. I used to cringe whenever I sold that stuff. Some of these guys' grips were the size of the business end of a baseball bat.

Vaseline also comes in very handy when the wife and I are alone in the bedroom. We put it on the doorknob so the kids can't get in. Get your mind out of the gutter!