charliechitlins

I did that EXACT repair on my buddy's first ride on his new Scorpa. The hose guard looks like money well spent.

Flip your adjusters around so they won't get bumped. Are you holding the axle still with an allen wrench while you tighten the nut?

Maybe some friction tape...like they put on hockey sticks. Great stuff.

Don't forget the choke (enrichener). BTW...I don't think twisting the throttle first will help. There's no accelerator pump, so it won't do anything. It is important to use NO throttle. If you're tempted to twist it, put your right hand on the crossbar when you kick. If you're still having trouble, you could drill the starter jet. I did on mine. It sometimes takes 4-5 kicks to start if it's cold and damp and it's travelled on a trailer. The rest of the year...2 kicks...like clockwork.

Your chain could be whipped. Once they are finished, they get worse real fast. Grab the chain at 3 o'clock on the rear sprocket and try to pull it straight back. If you can expose half a sprocket tooth(or more), you need a chain. If you buy an o-ring, it'll probably last the life of the bike. Also...a lot depends on where in the rotation your chain is when you check it. Chains all develop tight spots (or loose spots?) when they wear. If you adjust at a tight spot, you can spin the wheel and a loose spot can almost have your tensioner touching the swingarm. You can watch this as you spin the wheel. Again...if there's too much difference between the tight and loose spots, you need a chain.

Is it a rotary valve? The carb could be in there. Or an oil pump if it's injected. Don't know a damn thing about them...just taking guesses...as usual!

OK....What's a Yow Yow?

I like to stand if space is short...so I can move all around the bike easily. If you have a lot of space and a smooth floor and can scoot around on a chair with wheels, by all means make it lower. As for height...assume that the majority of your work will be done between the axle and airbox height, so raise the bike up so that part is right in front of you. This will be too high for comfortably working on handlebars/controls, etc. but that can be done with the bike on a recycleable workstand (spackle bucket) on the floor. Make it plenty wide for putting down tools/parts.

Try contacting Wayne Thais through the RYP website. I'm pretty sure, though, that the top ends are interchangeable. Isn't trials an amazing motorsport? Everybody's always trying to make their bike slower!

.020" I think that's .5mm for the metrically inclined. And it really is crucial to proper running. Much more so than I could have imagined.

Chrome don't get you home. But it may increase your chances of getting a date* in New Jersey on a Saturday night. *Cleaned up language...family website, y'know

I always have a hockey puck in my shop. I carve it into all kinds of shapes for various mounts...including a rear motor/transmission mount for a car once. Cut it with a coping saw. I guess, though, that the rubber may be better suited to low temperature than to high.

My preferred method: Light torch with acetelyne only and cover the part with black soot. Introduce some oxygen but only as much as you need to keep from continuing to blacken the part. A rosebud works best. Heat the part evenly all around the bend. When the soot flakes off, drop the part in water and quench. The part is now annealed and soft enough to bend. I've never tried it with acetelyne, so I don't know if it will get it hot enough. If you try, rub the part with a bar of Ivory soap. When the soap turns black, quench in water. Before anybody jumps on me...annealing aluminum is unlike steel, where slow-cooling, not quenching, is necessary.

I'm with the "put it in gear and rock it until the clutch frees" crowd. Very easy. Haven't you guys ever owned a Norton?

It is a very good idea to vent the mag. If it's not vented, it can also suck water past the seal if the engine is hot enough when you hit water...a vacuum forms inside because of the temp change. I heated up a #2 phillips screwdriver and ran it through the rubber block right next to where the wires exit and siliconed in a piece of vent line that I ran right alongside the wires and up under the tank. Very sanitary, and a little air circulation keeps it from rusting in there.

Whatever happened to the good old days? Real men use Hot Wheels track and zip ties!!

Sorry if I'm putting words in your mouth, Sam, but...I think he's looking for feedback on what really works... I don't think he's just looking to part with excess sheckels. I'm not a Mont owner, but the coil looks right vulnerable to me, and most of the ones I see have a cover.

General rule: If the screw is aft of the slide (closer to the airbox), it's an air screw. If it's fore of the slide it's a fuel screw. Screwing it out will add more of whatever it's controlling.

Better fill it up and dunk it in water and watch for bubbles. A new sealing band is a relatively big job if you only need a new valve core.

my bike has a lever to alter the timing while riding, wheels that you can take out without any tools with no spacers to loose, hinged mudguards to ease taking the wheels out, linkless monoshock type rear suspension, some of the best engineering detail ever produced on a production bike. It cruises at over 100mph and makes a fabulous noise. - it was built in 1949 But God help you if you need to sort out your clutch!

There is a possibility that a stuck float or leaky float seat could cause your lower end to fill up. Could get ugly when you try to start it.

Sherco's got the see-through gas tank. I love that. I want a single-sided swingarm with enclosed shaft drive and linkage-less suspension. With no weight gain, of course.

Somebody on the BB once mentioned that he noticed real differences in his power with only small adjustments to his mixture screw, and the way he noticed it was while trying to pull wheelies in 4th gear. He said that was a much better gauge of low-end power than just by seat-of-the-pants, which probably doesn't work on a bike you can't sit on. Har! I keep meaning to try the 4th gear wheelie method.

The lad and I just had a blast checking out your pics of the British indoor! Great job!! Killer!!!!!!!!! Thank you!

Sorry to stretch this one into 2 forums, but I didn't think many people would read it where it started, in "Beta: Merry Christmas". Is it really true that the AMA has insisted on long-sleeved shirts for trials competition? I have serious reservations about joining an organization that would spend my dues to pay lawyers to fight mandatory helmet laws(I never have joined). So, not only does the AMA fight mandatory helmet laws WHILE imposing mandatory helmet rules at their events, but now they are insisting on LONG SLEEVES?!?!? So, are they for safety or against it? Or are they for it when it's THEIR insurance; and for "freedom" when it's somebody else's insurance? The AMA has been a political/hypocritical organization since their beginnings a puppet of Harley-Davidson, formed to impose racing rules that made sure (for a little while, anyway) that HD wouldn't get clobbered by the Brit bikes. Politics and motorcycles don't mix. Never have. Remember your latin roots: "Poli" meaning 'many'--- and "tics" meaning 'blood sucking parasites'.