charliechitlins

That is the organization that uses YOUR dues to fight against helmet laws, and they won't let you ride in a T-shirt. Holy shi*t. Don't get me started!

Mine was a team bike and there were 2 'drywall' screws holding that bezel down...I still use them, but I really don't think it's necessary. There is also a piece of automotive weatherstrip between the airbox and muffler...that seems to be a useful addition.

Well said, Martin. Thumbs up to Laia and Montesa/Honda for supporting some of the world's best riders in the world's best sport...with the possible exception of curling....and the Scottish utility-pole toss...you can't beat those two for laughs.

From what I can figure from talking to quad riders in my (red)neck of the woods, they're better than 2-wheelers at 2 things: Going in snow and carrying beer. Here's a snippet of one of my favorite conversations: Quad guy: This thing'll go anywhere. Me: Really? Follow me.

This may be out of context, but... I'm confused by the idea of oversized cams. I can see it in the context of something like the SSDT, where the main concern is finishing...but not for general use. If you think you need oversize cams, you probably need a new chain. As the links get further apart from wear, they also machine down (ruin) your sprockets to fit. Now, if one checks the chain at 3 o'clock on the rear sprocket, it still has some life left in it, and there is no adjustment left, then it's time for bigger cams...but I've never seen a wheel run out of adjustment befor the chain is finished.

What do you mean by: can't wear t-shirts anymore? Is that a safety thing, or just a seasonal thing?

Talk to any emergency room nurse...or Ozzy. Those things are deadly. AND...I couldn't get the frame for my latest restoration ('38 Indian 4-cyl) back from my powdercoater because he shattered his leg om his damn quad! 2 wheels good. 4 wheels bad.

I was waiting, too!

Been around forever, those nipples. They're on American motorcycles prior to about 1933. They were called "alemite" nipples, and they require a special fitting for the grease gun that is available, but can be a bit pricey.

That's because I sorted it all out!

Because it's better than a 5?

Never seen the low profile fittings, but there are plugs for the holes. It wouldn't be too much trouble to pull a plug and screw in a zerk now and then. Where did you get the low profile nipples?

But then I wouldn't be able to paddle through and still get a 3...in just about every section.

I've been considering it for my Sherco. The thing that kept me from diving right in is the fact that the stock bearings have a shell around them and no grease would get to the needles. I've considered hollowing the bolt to get grease in, but strength issues made me nervous. My next step is to find a needle bearing with no outer shell...like a wristpin bearing...so the grease can get in from the outside. Drilling the parts will, of course, weaken them. If you keep the part very cool while drilling, you'll reduce the chance of altering its hardness.

If it's a new condition, you can forget about plug, timing and jetting---those things don't change---with the possible exception of jetting which can be caused by crud in your carb. I'd look at your intake (air leaks) or cooling system (thermostat, water pump or low coolant).

I encountered this on an '02 Scorpa. It was actually a bad carburetor...machined incorrectly. A rare occurrence, I guess, but maybe worth mentioning. The bike would actually die if the back wheel got more than a couple feet above the front. No amount of tweaking would help. A new carb cleared it right up.

Head "gasket" is probably an O-ring, so there's nothing to do there. Extra base gasket would work...but it's hard to be sure how much. You're probably better off working with the timing.

Actually, it's pretty easy. If you check the Sherco website, there's a great article (with pics) about servicing the bearings. The Sherco and the GG are quite similar. Don't bother disconnecting the shock at the top. Use a little heat and just the right size socket to tap out the bearings. If you keep them straight, you can tap them in carefully with a plastic hammer or a regular hammer with a block of wood to protect the bearing. It's a shame this job has to be done so often. My TY350 had grease nipples and the original bearings were tight after 17 years.

And...to my eye, the job wouldn't be finished without the swingarm. If I had to choose between the fork legs and the swingarm, I'd go with the swingarm.

You can make sanding mops by putting a lengthwise slot in a piece rod that will fit in your....whatever---dremel, drill, hand grinder--- Slip a piece of sandpaper into the slot and wrap it around the rod. Rip it off little by little as it wears. Use plenty of water.Those frames are pretty smooth; you can probably start with #320 or #400, and go to 600 and 1000. Experiment, as always, somewhwere you can't see it. Then use a felt tip and polishing compound. You should be able to get some with a 1/4" shank that will fit in a hand drill. Finish by hand with aluminum polish. I use Simichrome. Much easier if you have a hand grinder. You can get all kinds of polishing tips. It will still be difficult, messy work. As polishing and buffing is the first step in chrome plating, you might consider sending it to a plater and having their experienced polisher do the job for you. It's a little expensive, though. In the US, you could figure on $30-$40/hour and 4-6 hours. To maintain the finish, keep a thick coat of good wax on it. My favorite, though, is clear powdercoat. It takes away a very little of the shine, but it's no-maintenance.

And turn it farther.

If I can't get enough adjustment out of the mixture screw, I go for the choke (enrichener). It's a little tricky, but I open it a tad while riding at the throttle setting I'm trying to tune to see if the problem gets better or worse with a richer mixture. Then I know which way to start moving with my jetting. The other way is to have a bunch of time and a fistfull of pilot jets...but that can get expensive.

Sherpa, Sounds like a computer glitch. In my experience, Wayne's replies are always speedy. Another good reason to ride Sherco.

Sherpa, I just checked the parts manual, and there's no separate part# for the clamp. Just the complete leg.

I think that Sherpa is noticing that the axle clamp is a separate part pressed on to the leg and he's wondering if it can be replaced. I don't think the fork seal replacement manual will help. I would imagine it could be done by a qualified machinist...you would have to know if it is pinned, or if any material is sweatted into it (like brass)...but I bet the real problem would be getting the part. I think you're in for a new leg.