charliechitlins

My guess is that if there's no automatic advance/retard, the RPM wouldn't make any difference. You could look at the timing mark(with strobe) and see if anything begins to change as revs build.

Sometimes the squeal is caused by reduced grip. That was the case with mine. The heating/wetting thing might work.

Ride before you decide. The 350 is a great bike. A torque monster, but definitely not too quick or hyper. The flywheel effect on that bike is pure John Deere. BTW...they ALL sound like they have a whipped top end, but it's actually an issue with an oddly-shaped combustion chamber that causes a knock. If it bothers you, you can have the head milled or just lap it smooth and remove the head gasket and apply some "chrome-in-a-can" spraypaint...the stuff with aluminum particles in it. There is LOTS of cool stuff you can do to this bike.

I came across this once in the murky recesses of my past, but don't remember just what it was. Maybe something to do with excess play or flex in the shackle that holds the drum...allowing the drum to move and the brake rod would push the arm....or something... I'm pretty sure it had something to do with the shackle permitting the backing plate to move too much.

Nice work, Jon! So rare to see a "special" anymore.

An '01 Sherco is a great bike. Smooth and bulletproof. I really miss mine. A 2 piston caliper from a later model will bold right on and is a sensible update. I think the "01 also has a 1-piece brake pedal and the later one with hinged end is another good update.

+1 I just did this to my new (to me) GG. Must be a smaller (lighter) rotor than was on my Sherco because it discolored after a short time. Doesn't seem to be a problem, though. Squeaking gone, braking improved 100%. I can hardly believe the previous owner rode it that way.

I lent out my copy of "The Bernie Book"...and my trials skills are really rusty, but.... I'm pretty sure the way to ride across a slope is to weight the downhill peg (furthest from the ground) and lean the bike a bit into the hill. It seems counter-intuitive, as your idea of getting the tread down makes sense, but I don't think it works that way. But I, like you, am going to have to actually get on the bike to be sure.

It's called a petcock. Only those of us who have been riding a REALLY long time can say it with a straight face.

You sure about that?

I'm petty sure the platinum and iridium plugs have a very small center electrode and a very thick outer electrode, and I think the manufacturers advise against changing the gap. Even a little carelessness with the feeler gauge could damage the fragile center electrode. The gap can be adjusted if you are very careful.

In a car, points last about 3000 miles. Same on my old road bikes. I would say that you could invest in a set of proper points and they will probably live longer than you. 3k miles of trials tales a LONG time!

16 and 20:1...you guys are freakin' ANTIQUE I remember 32:1. Now...I ain't sayin' I don't go back further than that...that's just what I REMEMBER

Not so sure about that. Most of my experience is on a Sherco 290 (270) and now I'm on a GG 200 (175). I'm having a hard time getting used to the snappy delivery. The little engine seems to rev faster. I'm losing traction, pushing the front tire in loose/slippy conditions.... I may go for a slow throttle.

I always use a helmet, gloves and some good boots

I don't know the bike, but on any bike I've messed with, the feed is physically above the return. It sure pays to be sure, though!! Again...not knowing the bike, but...an oil filter can only help. Only on the return...never the feed.

When this started happening to mine, the end of the kick shaft had snapped off and the kicker was only held on by the inner splines. The bike is still in pieces awaiting time and money.

Sherco engine? I'll be darned.

Blasting is tricky...especially with glass beads. It only takes a few to ruin an engine. After blasting, I wash everything with warm, soapy water, dry immediately with compressed air, then paint. Now...many high temp paints need to be heated quite soon after applying, AND they come off easily when handling before curing. So whipping the top end right on and starting the bike can be a problem. I heat parts with a propane torch, apply the paint and heat again. You can see it cure.

Spark should be fat and blue. On battery-less bikes it can be a little smaller and more yellow because you can't get the bike spinning anywhere near even idle speeds with your foot. Also...a plug that fires well when lying on the head won't necessarily fire when installed. Oddly enough, compression makes it harder for spark to jump the gap. So many things can be cured with a fresh plug!

Some of the teams like to have fresh looking plastics and keep used ones for spares. I used to get relatively inexpensive, used plastics from the importer.

There is a difference....whether it matters to your bike is a different story. Coils like to "see" a particular resistance. We old timers remember when points went and electronic ignitions came in. Many electronic ignition coils wouldn't work with copper core wire. They needed carbon core due to the resistance. That being said...I'm pretty sure I ran some "R" plugs in my Sherco with no ill effects.

Wise guy.

Packed up the van to take my 11-year-old for a ride. It's an involve process as I keep all my band equipment in the van. We get out to our little local spot and after about 15 minutes, he gets a flat front tire. Do you think I remembered to bring a patch kit? Of course not. We pack up both bikes and go home. I fix the tube and am too lazy to get some soapy water to make everything nice and slippery so I pinch the tube. Totally beginner mistake...so I'm p****d off. Take it apart and patch the hole I made. Put it back together and pump it up. The kid doesn't want to go back out riding. I walk past the bike a little later...tire is flat. I lose it and start kicking stuff. Walk away. Go back later, take the wheel off for the 3rd time, take the tube out and pump it up. No hole to be found. Fill a bucket and dunk it in. No bubbles. Check it this morning before work...still plenty of air in it. WTF Sometimes ya just can't get it right even when you get it right!

Maybe you dodged a bullet! A new kill switch can't hurt, but even the best kill switch usually won't stop a runaway engine. Not sure why. I think they start to "diesel". The high heat generated from the engine spinning so fast ignites the fuel...or something like that...