charliechitlins

Sounds like a clogged pilot jet to me.

For the future...make sure your exhaust is well sealed and you can kill the engine by blocking it. I've never put a runaway in gear, held the brakes and let out the clutch, but it sounds incredibly scary. Good idea laying it on its side.

Yikes!

Thanks, fellas. And, Sting... Trials in Kansas? We need to talk. I live in corn country and need to know how to make trials interesting here. I figure someone from Kansas might have some tips. Actually...I just got some parts from Steve ("Spinner")...another Kansas guy. What are you guys riding over? Hay bales and old tractor tires?

Not sure what fork seal grease is, but these rubber parts can be very picky about contaminants. Clean everything to spotless...including your hands...before assembly. I use a silicone-based assembly lube.

How about 1:00 where he puts the front wheel on the top of that rock. He's not human.

Seems like old times....

Anybody got any ideas for relatively easy, inexpensive obstacles for some backyard practice?

Thanks, fellas...I'll give the old gal a good set-up...just fishing for tips tricks that might be available from those who own/wrench this particular machine. Anybody know the front and rear suspension travel on this bike. It's a pain to figure it out for myself. Thanks

That's not glue, son...that's an aerospace grade industrial adhesive!

Never done that particular bike but... You can put a dial indicator on the shaft and pull it in and out (same as you did to notice the endplay) and add shims, or you can put on too many shims and put the cases together. They'll rock because they won't close completely. Then remove shims one at a time until they stop rocking. That's zero endplay. Then remove the amount of shim equal to the recommended endplay.

Purpose-made seals seem shockingly expensive, eh? Some fork seals are crazy.

I got this 200 Pro thing... It's not what I'm accustomed to. Shock seemed way mushy and forks seem way stiff. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I used to set up suspension by pushing down on a footpeg and getting the shocks and forks to go down about the same amount. Fo this to work with the GG, I have to turn the pre-load adjuster ALL the way down. Now the front and rear seem about even, but it's pretty damn stiff. I have the compression knob on the front fork all the way out. Are these standard forks (as opposed to cartridge? Should I be looking at smaller pre-load spacers?

Although I rids a GG at the moment, the idea of no shock linkage to service (Beta and Scorpa) has always appealed to me

Maybe race or aviation fuel still has lead. Lead deposits were grey/brown, dry and lumpy. If you have wet, black plugs, you have a different problem.

Even the biggest trials bike will not be an animal. In many ways, more engine is more forgiving. It's not like MX, enduro, etc. You'll also be glad to be in the totally unique position of riding a competition machine that is basically World Round ready right out of the box. You'll also spend virtually no money on up-keep...especially when compared to MX and Enduro. Literally ALL the bikes are good. The best advice I could give is to look at parts availability and service. If you have a good shop near you that sells/services one of the brands, go with it.

Speechless...

There's very little difference. A lot of money was made installing hardened valve seats, etc. when lead went out, and it turned out to be for nothing. If there's anything you should want out of your gas, it's alcohol.

I'm pretty sure Jon has had his '86 TY350 since new!

Buy the kit. When you take it apart, you'll likely notice that the shaft is grooved. Kinda hard to believe that a rubber seal can wipe out a hardened steel shaft, but there ya have it. Make sure you use motorcycle coolant that says non-abrasive. While you're there, you might want to replace the clutch slave cylinder o-rings. No telling what the coolant in the case has done to them, and it's cheap and easy to replace them. I just did it.

The TY350 has a flywheel just slightly lighter than does a Ford 9N tractor, so it does take awhile to wind down. Sounds like crank seals, though. Wait for Stoodley (JSE) to chime in. I figure if there's anything he doesn't know about a TY350, it doesn't need to be known,

Jeeze...it's been a long time, but I don't remember any of those o-rings. Only the one on the cap and maybe inside where the air (or s it fuel?) screw goes. Definitely not at B where the main jet screws into the jet stock. Your guesses seem good, though... The smaller one is the idle jet, right? Both it and the main jet stock seem to have a place for an o-ring. It couldn't hurt to put them there.... Hopefully someone with some more recent experience will chime in!!

AFAIK, as long as they stay in oil, they run virtually forever. If you really want to check it, I guess the same way you'd check a drive chain. Try to pull it back away from the sprocket. If you expose more than about half a tooth, the chain is shot.

I like what we used to call "Yamaha style". With the square red button. Must be a 2-wire. Never had any trouble with one.

Cool....I wish I coulda made it. Only 90 minutes from me, but I just had too much to do! HS graduation weekend for my boy. Hopefully it was a success and it'll be back at Rausch Creek next year.