mollygreen

I have just finished modifying and fitting a DT125 kickstart lever to fit my original TY250 kickstart lever boss and it looks very good, though I say it myself. The DT125 lever is only about 5" long and so gives a good couple of inches plus clearance under the exhaust when closed and looks a lot less bulky than the original. I had to ream out the kickstart lever and turn down the diameter of the boss spigot to get them to fit. I also cut the spigot down, drilled and tapped it to hold the lever on the spigot with a bolt and washer. This I feel is far better than the original washer and circlip. And all this for less than

I'll second that!

I have the WES 2 piece system joined on to a SM front pipe on my TY250. All new together at the same time. I would recommend changing the exhaust first, as your engine will appreciate not having to try and blow through at least 30 years of old crappy exhaust coke. My next project for the bike is an electronic ignition, but for me the exhaust has to come first.

You can buy genuine and copy (paper) manuals on ebay and also someone is selling a manual on CD Rom, but I have never come across a PDF version on the internet anywhere?

If you want to have the head bead blasted to remove the old paint, I would recommend using caustic soda as a cheap and effective alternative. You use 1 kG of caustic soda to 4 ltrs of clean water and stand well back, as the fumes aren't nice to breath in. You will need a pair of good rubber gloves and another container of clean water to transfer into, (a dustbin is good) I stripped my head and barrel this way and it works a treat, without damaging either.

I'm confused by this too as I've never seen a footrest kit for the TY250 in the Miller catalogue - not saying there isn't one, just never seen one advertised. Sounds to me like you think I'm making the whole thing up! Phone SM M/C's on 01425 616446, they'll put you straight.

I have the Sammy Miller foot rest kit on my bike. They lower them about an inch and put the foot rests position an inch further back. The only down side is that the brackets are a bit weak and if you catch them on anything, they bend in and back! I have to straighten mine everytime I ride the bike. (F*ckin' annoying) I did a road trial last weekend and the only tools I had in my back pack were a lump hammer and a length of ally flat bar!

Try www.performanceoilsltd.co.uk for all your AMSOIL requirements and technical stuff.

I've been running my TY250 T/S on AMSOIL SABER PROFESSIONAL at a mixture of 100-1. As it has been designed to mix at a ratio of 100-1, it dosen't smoke at all and it runs beautifully. I would recommend AMSOIL to anyone. And for those of you who doubt that 100-1 is enough oil for a two stroke then rest assured that I have previously run a 270cc Beta Rev 3 on the same AMSOIL for three years!

Perhaps some of your problems are coming from the amount of oil your using? I have recently fitted a new piston kit and small end to my TY250 and as I run the bike on Amsoil Saber synthetic 2T at 100-1 mixture I broke the engine in on a mixture of 66-1. I have also fitted a new WES two piece silencer system with a SM front pipe. Because the oil/petrol ratio is so lean on oil I found that the bike ran very weak and have raised the needle to clip position 4 from the standard setting of 2, richening the mixture, with the air screw out exactly 1 full turn. Now with these settings and the new exhaust, the bike runs like a sewing machine. I am glad that I aint sat behind you in the sections running your bike at 25-1, you must have ready to lay Bitumen running out of the exhaust. Seriously though try running your bike on less oil, it will respond better to carb set up changes. As for the noisy engine that you mentioned later in this thread, you didn't say whether you were using fin dampers (rubbers) in the barrel. I took all the rubbers out of my barrel when I took it off and cleaned it up. When I put it back together and run it up and started riding it to run it in, I was supprised how noisy the engine top end was and fitted a whole load of new fin rubbers, (as mentioned in a previous topic on this site). This has cut the noise down by about 50% but it still isn't quiet. Lets face it what aircooled Yam is? Most of the rattle is caused by the resonance of the barrel fins and can be reduced by using fin dampers.

These figures are for a TY250 T/S and are straight out of the CYCLESERVE TY250B servicing manual. I dont know that they can be applied to the Majesty Yams, but I dont see why not, as nuts and bolts are the same whatever! The Cylinder Head Nuts are 8mm and are 2.1 - 2.5 m-kgs. The Cylinder Cap Nuts are 10mm and are 4.2 - 4.5 m-kgs. To convert this to ft-lbs use a rounded off multiplier of 7.233. I hope this will be of some use to you.

Might all be from the same manufacturer cos as we know Miller doesnt make anything. Thought i had seen them on J K Hirst site and when i asked John Cane said he did them. Not really bothered about who and where just is the fact that they are smaller diamiter, if indeed they are?, might cause a problem? I could always get one made but cheaper if i use the one from J K Hirst. Dont like supporting Miller unless there is no choice. Just a personal thing. Like to support the people who are polite and offer good service. So is the smaller bore pipe a problem? I have a Sammy Miller front pipe linked into a WES two piece mid section/silencer system. Even though I live 5 miles from S/M's shop, I had to buy it from JK Hirst's as Sam didn't have any in stock, but that was OK as I had bought the WES from JKH also. (very good service). The front pipe that they supplied is an S/M one. As to the diametre of this pipe, if is is smaller than the original, it aint much and I haven't found that it chocked the bike, on the contrary, having a complete new exhaust has made my bike run bloody lovely. There is a difference of about 2mm in diametre between the front pipe (40mm O/D) and the WES middle section (42 I/D) and to get over this, I used a piece of 0.8mm thick gasket sheet rolled up in between the two pipes, stuck in with heat resistant silicone sealer and used a good quality strong exhaust clamp that I bought of off Ebay (I could have bought one from one of the stalls at Motorcycle World, but it was too late by then) and clamped the whole lot together, and it's great, I'am well pleased. One word of warning though, the WES exhaust has no gaurd and does get f*uckin' hot and burns your leg if you aint careful while riding! One last thing I felt needed to be done to the front pipe was to grind out the most horrible looking miss-match of the tubes that are thankfully accessible because they are at the exhaust port end. This is where a curved tube is welded into tube straight tube with the flange on it and the bit inside needs to be ground away to encourage a better gas flow. You can't get it all out completely smooth but I have made it a million times better and having spent the last 27 years in engineering, I couldn't bare to leave it like it was.

I am hoping to road register my TY250 T/S with an authentic number from the year of manufacture, but didn't know what year the bike was made. One call to Yamaha Customer Services on 01932 358000 to give them the frame number and there you go, 1978. Excellent, especially as they are also going to provide me with a dating letter to accompany my application to the DVLA as well. Well done Yamaha.

Molly whats the brand of chain lube are you using, Ive been looking for something that gives them sort of results .... Im gonna spray my good looking neighbour with some of that chain lube and hope it works for me....the quicker the better Im hoping... Forget the chain lube right now. You should be thinking of using some of that LYNX spray and go "love thy neighbour". Bom Chicka Wah Wah, and good luck!

I take my chain off before washing the bike and put the chain in a tub of old degreaser which is made up of all sorts of old stuff including petrol, parafin, thinners, white spirit e.t.c. e.t.c. After soaking for a couple of days or whenever I remember it's still in there, I scrub with a toothbrush and hang up to drip over the degreaser pot and then after a few minutes, spray the chain on both sides with WD40, leave to hang over night and re-fit. The best thing about using only WD40 is that no mud and crap sticks to the chain which with chain lubes creates a kind of grinding paste that shags your chain in no time.

Woody - I have a standard TY250 T/S (ie not Majesty) it is a 1977 - 1980 model D or E ( not sure) and has a standard flywheel; fitted to it (as far as I know) and it has the steel ring bolted round the outside of it, as you have described. My question is - is it better to remove this ring or leave it on? What will removing the ring from the flywheel do to the performance/ridability of the bike. What should I expect the differences to be like? What are the for's and against's?

My ty250 rattles more than i would like,I just cut up 12mm lengths of 6mm bore fuel hose and pushed them into the fins in a semi neat line,works a treat. I live near Sammy Millers, so I went in and asked Sam about fin dampers. He showed me a Bultaco damper that is a block of five rubber "teeth" that are joined together. They are designed to go length ways between the fins of a Bultaco barrel all in one piece. They would not fit my TY barrel because they were too fat, length ways, but cut with a modeling knife into sepereate segments and fitted width ways, they were exactly the right size for the barrell fin spacings on my TY250. So, to cut a long story short, I bought 10 of these blocks and cut them up into 50 pieces and fitted 47 of them in between my barrel fins. They have worked extremely well and have quietened the resonance of the fins no end. I am very happy with the results. A bit fiddly to cut up and fit individually, but well worth the trouble in the end.

Can anyone out there tell me where I can get hold of some rubber fin dampers for the barrel fins of my TY250 T/S? The type I am looking for are the solid rubber bar type that fit in between the fins.

162cc per leg.

Trailsandtrialsuk (www.tytrials.co.uk) are selling replica T/S fork caps on Ebay for