gjbiker

Con rod = connecting rod between piston and crankshaft Piston pin ? Gudgeon pin holds piston to con rod with small end needle bearing. Check play in both small end and big end (crankshaft) bearings by applying an up and down motion whilst either at bottom dead centre or top dead centre and feeling for wear. Main bearing play can be checked by the feeling for up and down movement on the flywheel and the primary gear ends of the crankshaft. If you are purchasing a piston kit (piston, rings, pin, and bearing) check for big end bearing play when the old piston has been removed. Hope this helps? GJ

Have a looky here - Bearingboys GJ

Have a look here 'Clicky Linky' but t-shock has a valid point, if it's an older bike you might want to stay away from the lighter mix? GJ

Seems to be one of those ongoing problems that's never been cured. My 280 did it from new and most others I've seen seem to be the same. I cover the rubbing spot with industrial self adhesive tape and replace it when it rubs through. Works for me but I'm sure there are many other solutions? Bending the exhaust will only weaken the brackets and produce a poor seal at the join. GJ

Phew I thought for a minute there that the metric system had suffered from credit crunch ? GJ

Eh ? I've had a hell of a day and my eyes are closing but that dont seem right? GJ

Hit the nail there Tombo, I'm part of the latter group. I drooled all over it at the SSDT stand, totally gorgeous. Would I pay the extra - yes - if I had the money then why not. Would it help my riding compared to a standard one - no, not one bit. Why would I pay the extra ? Quite simply - because I like it. Isn't that why most people buy things? GJ

Sounds like the splines on the crank are worn or damaged? Very common on gearbox output shafts where the chain drive sprocket goes on. Can you see a gap between the splines of the shaft and the splines on the gear? Sometimes not easy to see depending on the severity of the wear/damage. Basically the splines on the outside of the groove for the circlip are no longer in line with the splines on the gear preventing it from coming off. Try tapping the gear in the direction of drive (clockwise) and see if there's any movement or signs of it realigning with the splines. If there's a lot of wear/damage then a crankshaft replacement could be on your shopping list GJ

No harm in trying? Howz about some thread sealer or PTFE tape as well? GJ

Protect the splines with something (brass is good as its soft but durable) and be GENTLE but persuasive. You really don't want to damage those splines so if it's being stubborn try a little bit of heat and see if that helps? GJ

It'll come with practice mate, we all have to start somewhere. The 'bit' where the water pump keys into is the end of the crankshaft so be very careful not to damage it especially if you use a puller. If you're going to 'pry' gears (or anything else) use wood or some sort of protection under the pry-bar to prevent damaging anything else. Slight pressure on the pry-bar and a GENTLE tap of the gear should be all that's needed to loosen it? Before jumping straight in and attacking with vigour, try looking at what you're working on for a while. Understanding how things work helps greatly in any mechanical project. I made a rather expensive mistake in my youth because I was too eager to remove a crankshaft for a simple bearing change! What should have cost a few pounds ended up costing hundreds! All part of the learning curve! A bit of a contradiction but if you take your time you'll get the job done quicker (and probably cheaper)? GJ

Primary gear should come off the same as the idler? If it's a bit tight you'd be best using a gear puller to save doing any more damage to your gasket faces! What's the Norwegian word for 'finesse' ? GJ

Are you losing coolant as well? More than likely the water pump seal? Plenty threads on this subject if it is. GJ

Save any grief and don't do it tonight, sods law it'll refuse to bleed ! When you do decide to do it, try it normally as you did with the front brake and if you're unlucky enough that it doesn't work then do the reverse bleeding method. As long as you're not disturbing the slave cylinder then you shouldn't have any problems bleeding it the normal way? Enjoy yourself tomorrow and I hope the bleeding goes without a hitch GJ

If you look at the parts page you've linked, item 20 is the primary transmission gear. Is this the one with the damaged teeth/tooths/tooth? This is the gear that slides over the splines on the end of the crank and held in place with a circlip (the splined crank end is also the drive for the water pump and if this part is damaged it's a split and remove crank job). If the primary gear is damaged it's easily replaced. Basically, if any part is damaged or worn looking, replace it. Have you religiously watched all these wmv files? 'Handy Vids' Don't know about parts availability in your country (where do you live and where did you get the new spring?) but all the items you see in the parts manual should be available from somewhere, somehow (unless you need a piston, I've heard they're currently hard to get?). Oh, and go easy with the instant gasket, better still, don't use it. A THIN smear of blue hylomar is normally sufficient. GJ

Good photos (apart from the blurry one). My prognosis is ; Without meaning to offend in any way, I think you may need to get someone with a bit more experience to take a look and help you out here? The fine application of instant gasket is an art in itself As for the broken tooths (teeth?) I reckon a replacement part is the way forward regardless of how much work is involved It's all a learning curve as we all know, but you'll get there in the end I'm sure. GJ

This was BEFORE the spring broke? If so-not sounding good If you've checked and double checked all the aforementioned components then it's looking like a complete strip down to find the source? Wait for some more replies though, there's a wealth of experience on here and some trained ear may diagnose from your wmv clip? GJ

Hi Snerk, Does the sound go away when you disengage the clutch? Is the kickstart return spring located in the correct hole? Is the water pump drive in good condition? Is the water pump working? Are all the thrust washers and bearings on the clutch shaft there and installed in the right order? Does everything look and feel to be in good condition when the clutch casing is off? Was the noise present when the spring broke or only after you'd reassembled with the new spring? With the clutch pulled in does the noise speed up when you rev the engine? If you won the lottery would you go halfs with me? GJ

I would assume you've seen the 'clutch.wmv' and rebuilt your own clutch pack the same way? If not, here's the link - 'Clutchy Linky' Does the 'top hat' piston move without resistance with the clutch casing off? If it does then I reckon the belleville spring would be the main reason for it being so heavy? What was it you replaced? is there any drag when running? Some oils will swell the friction plates but only after some period of time, stick to ATF to be on the safe side. GJ

Quality pics, cheers GJ

No worries Grant, I should be at Lumsden in July if all goes well so why don't you come along and get a feel for it? Don't get too excited about my 'land' ! It's only about an acre but it's set up with enough 'obstacles' to get a good days practice and there is more land locally with good natural terrain that we get permission to use. GJ

Hi Grant and welcome to trials. Why wait until next year? Probably a bit late for todays trial at Boutrie near Inverurie but I'm sure you could manage to go to one of the next ones in July or August? Visit the Bon Accord Club website for more info; 'Clicky here' If you (or anyone else) have transport and fancy a day away I have a small bit of practice land available up near Keith? Anyhooz, hope to see you around, stick in and have fun GJ

Have a look here..... Clicky Linky for bike racks. GJ

Welcome to the wonderful world of trials bowershall, you'll find out all you need to know by searching the threads but here's some basics to get you going....... 280 gasser is great but is a bit of a handfull for learning on - suggest taming it down with a flywheel weight and a slow action throttle? Oil ratio is 50:1 in the GG owners manual, I run mine at 60:1 (old school) but the majority run at 80:1 Tyre pressures vary depending on surface, weather etc but 4psi in the rear and 7 psi in the front will get you started. Suspension settings depend on many factors - your weight, the condition of the suspension units (old or new) etc. Suggest setting them in the middle and tweaking up or down until you find what feels right for you? MOST IMPORTANTLY - Have fun GJ

Tuesday looks good, must remember to pack the factor 50 GJ