manofsteele

Agreed. If you're on the portly side (like me).......

I'm running 10/40 currently and I'd say you would want to go up to 10/38 something like that.

Most likely to be the plates. Just a smidge of play there will relate to loads at t'other end of the swingarm. If it is a shock bearing, check the price and give me a shout - pretty sure I have one or two here I'm never going to use, I'll do you a deal.

Price is in the ballpark if the bike is tip top. Check both wheels for wobble (bearings), put it on a stand and lift the rear wheel - any up/down slop there and you're into linkages and dog bones. Any side to side and it'll be swingarm bearings. Round the front, grab the forks at the bottom and tug - any play there is likely to be head bearings. If you're rocking the bike back and forth with the front brake on to hear/feel that clunk, it's likely to be the disc moving on it's rivets. This is completely normal, don't worry. A blob of silicon sealant on each one shuts it up if you can't bear the noise (like me...). These are all very common issues and nothing to fret about, but should be reflected in the price. Just for reference, I paid £1000 for an '01 about 4 years ago. But it needed all the work I've listed above doing to it. Probably cost me another £300ish. Wide footpegs are a nice upgrade if you do decide to jump in.

Be sure there is some free play in the cable.

Yep. Another nod to Feetup Trialsport from me. Recommended.

Yep. I nursed a torn ACL for 25 years before getting it reconstructed 4 years ago. My man used a hamstring graft. For what it's worth, my advice is to spend your money on physio over a knee brace. I've found I'm just as happy wearing a neoprene knee gasket for a bit of psychological support as I was wearing a hinged funky looking deal. The gaskets also give your knee a little squeeze all over which helps with swelling/fluid management. It took me a year to feel confident again, but you have to remember I'm old and my knee was destroyed internally due to all those years flapping around with no ACL to hold stuff together.

Cool. Love that. I'm interested in those LED strips. I need to light the rear of my van and I feel the same way about 12v flouros - they never seem good enough to me.. Is there a particular LED to use or avoid?

Mine seems to be over jetted but runs well enough. An industry fella told me recently that they did need some fettling and were known for some knock. Mine benefits from using super unleaded also.

Double glazed lens is a must. Smith turbo goggles actually do work if you're prepared to pay for them. I have this issue snowboarding more than riding. All I can do really is keep them impeccably clean and get them off my head as often as is practical.

That's ballpark money I'd say. I paid a grand for my '01 about 4 years ago, it was a bit tatty and I threw another

Cool. Wouldn't hurt to change the fluid just for the hell of it. Be sure to leave some sort of small air gap in the reservoir once you're done. I made the mistake of brimming mine and sure enough everything expanded with a bit of heat and the brake all but locked on...

I had a long chat with a mate on another forum who works in the automotive fluids industry after hearing people used ATF in their gearboxes. Cut a long story short, there's no problem using ATF at all. It may break down a little quicker, but that's it. I buy it by the gallon from a motor factor and change it often - every other ride usually. That said, you never hear a word said against Elf HTX. It's clearly the daddy, but at a cost.

I'll tip you back to my first reply. If your pads are glazed, you'll experience a lever you can pull way back with seemingly little braking effect downstairs. For the few minutes it takes, indulge me Nice piece of sandpaper laid flat out on the bench, slap the pad down on it and a few sweeps back and forth. You'll see a significant change in colour on the pad. Quick douse with brake cleaner and re assemble with copper grease. Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs. I find myself doing mine fairly regularly, especially if I've been doing faster more trailie stuff.

I deglaze mine (Pads and disc) very regularly, that helps a lot. Also, getting the brake as hot as possible and then quenching with cold water seems to bring them to life too. I read about it, was a little sceptical but tried it and sure enough it works.

Do what 0007 says, if you haven't already. I've had success with all sorts of vehicles by cracking the pipes off and bleeding part by part. It's a pain but it'll generally solve the problem.

I'm researching this myself currently. A self priming pressure washer (petrol or electric) will draw water from a water butt or similar, otherwise some sort of water pump is advisable to prolong the life of the washer. Apparently, the washer will kill itself prematurely if it's left to try and prime itself without help unless it's designed to do so. I'm not convinced those two units you've linked will be man enough, but I'm sure they don't hold enough water. Consequently you'll be carrying water in some other form to top up from time to time. Seems a little fussy to me. The most convenient ones I've seen/used are self priming petrol ones linked to a slim water butt from Homebase/B&Q etc. The butt doesn't take up huge amounts of room in the van but holds plenty for a couple of bikes and the washer just needs a drop of fuel and a pull on the rope. I'd be interested to know other peoples solutions though.

I agree with Zippy. It may very well be fine, but alarm bells would ring for me if he's only owned it a month...

I like the Shercos, will be my next bike for sure.

I don't think I could be doing with those blue wheels though...

I'll always pass on the advice I was given as it turned out to be sound. Go and find a decent Montesa 315r. Not the lightest, not the best, but super reliable and powerful enough for bigger lads like us. I have a 2001. I bought it for a grand about 4 years ago and probably spent another 300 quid sorting it out. It's been brilliant ever since. Possibly the perfect beginners bike. They're also pretty much at their base value now too, they won't get much cheaper I don't think, so represent good value when you come to buy another bike. People will probably tell you that the beta 125 is the bike you'll actually learn the most on, and the 290s can be a bit overpowered for a newb. Don't think for a minute that because they appear slow, trials bikes aren't powerful - they'll catch you out in the bat of an eyelid...

Change all your fluids now, so you have a starting point for your own schedule. I run ATF in my gearbox which is relatively cheap stuff so I drop it after every full days riding. It holds 520mm. Wash and oil the air filter every ride (or rotate a couple which is what I do). Check the plug from time to time, although they seem to be quite reliable. I jetwash my chain, but others will tell you to leave it alone. I then brush on old engine oil. Fling isn't a problem as the speeds are so low, so I've not bothered with a purpose built chain lube. If it's a very dusty day and it dries out, I use Wurth Dry Lube or GT85. Bearings and linkages all need looking at now, and will no doubt need fettling. I ended up replacing everything on mine apart from the swingarm bearings which were, and are, ok. There is an aftermarket maintenance free dogbone available but I have no personal experience of it myself. If you've just got the bike, spend a wee while running the bike up and checking that the cooling fan cuts in and out nicely and regularly and isn't making any weird noises. That'll do to get you started

Wurth Bike Cleaner is pretty decent stuff. Leaves summat behind which helps the next wash. I'd reckon it works out about a quid a wash I suppose - depending how mental you go with the squirty bottle....

After that, whip the pads out and deglaze them. Have a second look at the pins, make sure they don't have any deep grooves in the them that the pads could snag on.

Happy days. Looking forward to only my second ride of the year tomorrow.