manofsteele

I bought a 01 Mont 315 for a grand 3 years ago and then spent another

I was always told to buy German, British or Jap bearings and steer clear of chinese ones. I buy mine from a local belt and bearing place and have no issues. If you buy cheapies it is worth having as peek inside as it happens, I've seen some with barely a drop of lube in them. It can be worth adding a little bit of grease sometimes.

I've used Feetup Trialsport recently, their service has been perfect every time.

Depends how you're riding it. I do some riding on mine up in the French Alps and it's more trail than trial. The fan runs a lot under those circumstances.. When I'm using the bike for what it was designed, the fan cuts in and out periodically (but a lot less) just like you'd assume it should. The cooling systems are small, and designed for purpose. Check your rad, make sure it's topped up. You'll have to take the tank off to get to the rad cap. There's also stories of fans running, but not up to full speed due to electrical faults. So you assume all is well with the fan when in fact, it's not sucking enough air through the rad. Is the fan nice and quiet, all the fins intact?

Sorry, no clue here... However, I would be interested to know how your clutch performs over a few rides as I want to overhaul mine and don't know what brands are worth buying.

Sadly, since writing that post my boss has said the the Worthing job has "gone quiet"..... Which is a tragedy as the ramp is made, sitting in our yard waiting for a start date. It's only a minramp though, rather than a full park, so nowt to get massively excited about. Will be a great shame if it falls through at the 11th hour. I'll find our where specifically it is due to go and I'll get back to you. Are you a skater/bmxer? We might need a local contact maybe. Cheers Rob.

We build ramps for everyone, skaters, bmx, inline, scooter, whatever. Generally we meet with the users and see which is biggest in that local scene and design the park to suit. Everyone on the firm either rides or skates. I'm a bmxer myself. We consult on concrete parks and have them built by specialist concrete sprayers, but aside from that we make everything else in house. Most popular with councils are steel frames with either a steel or skatelite riding surface, but my personal choice would always be for birch plywood as a riding surface. Strong as hell and grippy without burning your skin off when you crash. I do a fair amount of backyard ramps too, and they tend to be all wood affairs (cheapest). We're currently building ramps for Preston, Worthing and Brands Hatch.

Interesting.... I build skateparks for a living. The two would mix perfectly in my opinion. In fact, I think that more alternative sports (I hate the word extreme) should get together and make things happen. I've often wondered why MX practice tracks don't have a couple of freestyle kickers situated somewhere on site. Seems like a missed opportunity to me.

Check the earth lead from coil to frame - clean it right up. I had similar problems to you a while back, cured by cleaning that wire.

The fella I deal with at that Romford branch is a very helpful chap, he's also ridden a few enduros in the past he tells me. I can recommend their bike wash too, works a treat and not too dear.

Sand or file a taper round the edge of the pads, deglaze them (lay your sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the pads around a couple of times) and refit them using coppergrease on the back and a little bit on the sides. You'll see the pad changing colour as you remove the glaze - it'll be shiny starting off, and will lose that shine once you're done. This will shut them up for a while. I don't think there's a permanent cure, but deglazing them helps a lot and improves the brake too. While you're at it, you could deglaze the disc as well. Don't be shy why the sandpaper, a good scrub all over the braking area of the disc (both sides) will help a lot. Same deal as the pads, you'll see the shine and (often) burn marks dissappear.

What material did you use to repack the mid box?

Fair enough. Worth doing, they're bloody expensive to replace.....

........whats the best way to do it please? I need to buy a new silencer so I reckon now's the time to clean everything else up. The front pipe is straightforward enough of course, but how are we cleaning the inside of the mid box? Also, are there any alternatives to the orginal silencer, and are they worth it? Cheers Rob

Nah, best to drain and refill.

I've been using ATF in my old 315 having taken advice from a few people. My reasons were that I am another who believes in frequent oil changes and ATF can be bought at reasonable prices. It suits me. I don't ride every weekend, often there are gaps of a month or more between rides for me and I do experience a sticky clutch at the beginning of each ride. Nowt that bothers me and it frees off in no time at all. No clutch drag to speak of once its warm.

Check out the classifieds in the back of Trials and Motocross News. There's usually a Mont or two there each week.

Yeah, go and get one A friend of mine came from a Climber to a 315r, loved it.

Tweaked mine back into shape (sort of) using a hydraulic press and a few bits of carefully placed timber...

I made myself a couple of risers out of some 10mm ally plate to pick the bars up a bit. Nice and cheap and easy to remove if they're no good. I have the same problem as you and felt like the bars needed to be higher. I've not ridden enough yet with them on to know if I've cured it or not though.....

The only other thing I would add is that a bolt is not threaded all the way to the head - it had an elongated shoulder for load bearing purposes. A machine screw or set screw or sometimes machine bolt (all the same) look like a bolt, you'd call it a bolt, but it IS threaded all the way to the head...... So, if you want it threaded all the way, its called a machine screw. If you do not want it threaded all the way, its called a bolt. Then the choice of head which has been mentioned already. Socket cap is the posh name for allen key head, hex head is your traditional bolt head, button head is like a flattened dome or panhead and csk is countersunk. Hope that helps

Nope, no trick. It should just move, click by click. It's the damping adjuster, 20 click range I believe.

I have one, its my first trials lid but it seems good. Very comfortable, although the sides do squish my cheeks a little. no vision issues at all and very light also. I'd have another

My orginal physiotherapist is a CTi distributor. You could do worse than go visit him, have a proper consultation followed by a brace fitting. It's gonna cost some money, but you'll get the right tool for the job. http://www.activ8rehab.co.uk/pages/activekneebracing.asp Personally, I'm undecided. I too am recovering from ACL surgery. I think I'm going with the strong legs theory, rather than a brace. The way I see it at the moment, I'd rather spend the brace money on physio and gym sessions and see how that goes.. The idea of a brace induced broken femur does not sit well with me, think I'd rather have another knee reconstrution.

It's the lower shock body that broke - where the bearing fits. A clevis to me would mean the pin, is that what you mean?