samandkimberly

Mostly by going back and forth through the racetech.com website, then by looking up Harley numbers somewhere else on the web, I don't remember where. As far as seals, though, There's always a set or two from All Balls on eBay for relatively cheap; probably cheaper than HD. Sam

I think there's a very good chance the rod kit is the same as *some* Honda. There are lots of rod kits available from good aftermarket places and you can get there basic specs. Here are the basic specs of a cr250 rod from Wiseco: Material Type:

Just needed some fork bushings in a rush for the weekend. I did a little research and cross referencing on the web and what do you know - the fork bushings are the same as on a 2000 Harley Davidson 883 Sportster! I just got back from my local H-D dealer with a set of 4 for about 20 dollars total, they're identical. I already had seals, so I have no idea if they are the same too. Not too surprising as the HDs use Showa for forks, but kind of funny that a Montesa would share any part with a Sportster. Sam

I like the linkage kit on my 315R. Best to rebuild your linkage while you have the plates off. I highly recommend these pegs: http://www.trialcast.co.uk/product.php?id_product=16 They're light, strong, well made, and less than $100.00, incl. shipping to the US. They're also thinner: they have the same ground clearance as the stockers, but the foot plane is noticeably lower. I have a Vee-Mar brake pedal sitting in my tool box, new. I put it on but decided I liked my shortened stock lever more. The trick is to remove about an inch of the lever shaft and reweld so it tucks in right behind the clutch basket, right where the Vee-Mar one goes. Then again, it's probably easier to buy the Vee-Mar... Sam

Thanks everyone. It really does feel like a small pilot jet, so I'll go in there and make damn sure it's clean before I do anything else. Sam

I have a TY80 I bought for my son. It's in nice shape cosmetically, burns clean, starts great, and has *lots* of mid range power; ticks like a watch at idle too. But throttle response from idle/low RPM to maybe 2,000 RPM is lackluster at best; it feels like the idle jet is off a bit or the throttle slide cutout is too big. The jets are clean. But before I start messing with changing out carb parts I thought I should see what tuning advice this community has to offer. I'd love to hear any general TY80 tuning tips, but I'll start with some specific questions: Should I be expecting snappy off idle response out of a 80cc bike made in the 70s? I mean it works as is, but I wouldn't want to put my kid on it in a trial - it would take a lot of clutch work to keep it going in anything tight. How sensitive are these to jetting/carb wear? How much does ignition impact off idle response? Should I be redirecting my efforts there? Speaking of which, can anyone point me to an on line manual for a TY80? That's a start anyway. Thanks in advance for any and all input. Sam

If I were you I'd try changing the points and condenser for new ones, both at the same time. Perhaps you've already done this, but even if you have it might be a worthwhile gamble to try again. My own experience has been that once a set of points has been filed/sanded they never work the same again - good to get you through a riding weekend but not much more. Sam

I have a 349 that I've been riding for years and never even looked at the points. I suppose it's about time...can you elicit more on how tuning affects power band? You can adjust timing with either points or solid state, so I assume you're talking about playing with dwell. TIA, Sam

I'd love to see some pics of how it fits up. "A little modification" can mean a lot of things! Sam

I looked at this a little closer, and I realized that all I need to do to make the shortened stock footpeg work was to shorten the actuator rod! Now I have pics of both; here;s a link for the shortened peg: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/x4kqceruZsLWcjq4iOJKg4uN_JzgGVu1w4xwKWH_p_g?feat=directlink ..and the V-Mar one: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/j8r-sSkfcvBDRJs7AJgqiYuN_JzgGVu1w4xwKWH_p_g?feat=directlink I still like the V-mar, but I can't say it works that much better than the shortened stock one now... Sam

I've ridden my Montesa 315R for less than 100 hours total, and I've managed to break the stock lever twice. So, after this second time I decided to try two fixes. First I welded up one of my old levers shorter, so that the tip of the lever sat right behind the clutch cover. Second, I bought a nice new V-Mar lever. My understanding is that this is virtually identical to the billet H&D lever sold in the UK. I don't think I can embed a Picasa photo here, so here's a link to pictures of both: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ei7OM-yLeWprRVu_woce7ouN_JzgGVu1w4xwKWH_p_g?feat=directlink Funny, I modified mine before I got the V-Mar, but it turns out they're nearly identical. There's one subtle, but big difference - the part holding the clevis pin on the Vmar is a lower, so the brake sits in a lower, and more useful position. You could modify the stock brake lever to be like this, but not w/o cutting and re-welding close enough to the needle bearings and seals that you'd have to remove/replace them. At the end of the day, I'm glad I welded up the stock one, it works OK, and it is out of the way enough that I'm sure it won't break. At zero cost it's the better deal of the two, obviously. But the Vmar sits lower which makes it much more useable, it's real solid and pretty, and is just as well protected. It's not cheap ($149.00) but I wont be returning it. For what it's worth, due to a mis-communication between me and Mike Comer at the Tryals Shop, he ended up with two extras of these on his shelf. You can buy these in the US directly from Vmar, or from Lewisport, but if you buy one from Mike I'll feel less guilty. (If anyone feels this is too close to SPAM let me know and I'll edit it out!) Sam

The Raptor pegs are 10mm lower? That's interesting. I don't think I need to make a huge change here; the combo of ~10-15mm on the bars and 10-15mm on the pegs would be significant. Thanks, Sam

I'm 5"9'. I thought the same as you, which is why I haven't changed any components so far. But after riding this for a year, takign a couple of trials schools, and trying other trials bikes that felt better, and every handlebar adjustment possible I have to conclude it just doesn't fit me well. Thanks, Sam

OK - I've been riding my 2000 315R around for about a year now, entered a couple of competitions, and I'm beginning to feel like I know enough to tell something is not right with my riding position. The problem? I'm finding that I'm always hunched over the bars - they just seem too low, my neck gets sore, and my forearms are shot after an hour of riding. The simple solution would be higher bars, but I have brand new S3 bars and I'd like to keep them - I like them. I can add a spacer under the bar to add ~15mm, but that's about it w/o spending big money. The alternative solution would be to lower the footpegs. There seems to be a lot of brackets that move them back 10mm but nothing that moves them down. Then I also hear that Doug Lampkins bike had lowered ones, and that maybe the newer (post 2003?) brackets are set lower. I've also heard both that the brackets are identical to the 4RT, and that they are not. Anyone have any insight on any of this? I do know this - there are three part numbers for footpeg brackets that I've found: pre-2000 315: RH is 50600-NN3-000, LH is 50700-NN3-810 post 2001: RH is 50600-NN3-830 , LH is 50700-NN3-830 and the 4RT: RH - 50600-NN4-000, LH -50700-NN4-000 Anyone know what differences there are between these? And the aftermarket ones out there? Thanks, Sam

Thanks, everyone. I have the earlier PHBH carb, and understand relatively well how it works; I'm just surprised at how little effect it has on idle/off idle operation. From about 1/4 turn open on to 2-3 turns open it acts very similar, the exception being that it needs to be warmed up a little for the idle to be good at 2.5 + turns. I finally settled around 2 turns out. It's really not a problem, in that the the bike runs well over a wide range. I'm going to remind myself that the enemy of "good" is "better" and leave it alone. Sam

I've been trying to adjust the mixture screw on my 2000 315 and finding it has very little impact at all. Fortunately the bike ticks over pretty well regardless of the setting, but I'm curious if anyone else has experienced this? My gut feeling is that the passageway must be plugged up, but is this were so I wouldn't think it would want to idle. Sam

I fixed the problem by cutting off the broken part of the boot next to the carb, and turning an extension to the carb out of aluminum. Works a charm. But I didn't realize S+S carried so much TY80 stuff; I'll give them a try next time. I used to buy a lot of parts from them, never anything but great support. Sam

...any idea on where to get one? I see one on Ebay here: http://tinyurl.com/27aejsw ...but $35.00 seems like a lot, even before shipping. Any suggestions? I'm in the NE US, BTW. Thanks, Sam

I'm going to look at a TY80 for sale on Saturday. Not cheap - 900 USD, but judging from the pics very clean. Top end recently rebuilt, new wide pegs, I'll know more when I see it. I think it's a 1974, but I'm not certain. Any particular TY80 weak points I should be looking for on the bike? TIA, Sam

Try Dextron 3 ATF. If you read through all the oil post you'll find it gets recommended as much if not more than any other crankcase oil, it is cheap, and available at any car parts store. Sam

I had similar problems, and did a lot of research before I found a fix that worked for me. For starters I tried a bunch of oils; some worked better for a day or so, but all of them worked about the same after a couple of hours of riding. I ended up sticking with the cheapest and most available - Dextron 3 ATF. I sanded the metal plates and that helped tremendously, but only for a few more hours. I then looked at all the trick aftermarket options, CR250 clutches, buying a new stock one, and decided the most economical fix to try was buying a set of Surflex friction plates. Given that I had no proof any of the fixes were going to work better than any of the others - it made sense for me to start at the bottom of the price heap. I put them in and it's been fine since. Not perfect, mind you - it hangs up the very first time when you pop it in gear cold, neutral can still be hard to find, but no more creep when in gear. Sam

I'd recheck all your bigger electrical connectors. If you've got a weak connection it may carry enough current to measure the battery output but then go open circuit when a real load it put on the bike. All the crimps are highly suspect, on my bike at least. They look good until you pull on them. Sort of a PITA to find, but cheap to fix! Sam

See pics below. I'll try to add some more description soon, but I thought getting them up here was a good start. Note that I machined the tabs off either side to fit the controller between the frame rails - this is only one of many ways to fit it. The speed control pot isn't used, neither are the black/white wires coming out the controller. All the connectors are Walmart heat shrink waterproof connectors - over in the trailer section here in the US. Sam

I should add, BTW, that it's not too hard to figure out. Just try to eliminate as many connectors as possible when you're wiring it in and check the ones you leave alone. the stock crimped ones aren't perfect. I used all waterproof heat shrink connectors. Sam

I haven't yet - and unfortunately, looking at my workload I'm not going to have a chance to make one up until May at the soonest! Ah, well, better too much work then not enough, I suppose... Sam