|
-
Hi back again - many thanks for the info !
They look interesting
-
Hi
sorry been away for a while just catching up. Many thanks for the links, I'll digest
Best regards
-
Evening all
wondered if anyone has any experience / and or recommendations of any places where you can stay, which has land on site suitable for 'playing' on with the bikes. Nothing serious required as my young lad and I are only novice clubman riders, just want to have some fun and practice falling off
Cheers
-
Agreed (ignoring the ignition circuit ) they are far better bikes than the Beta 50's. The quality of engineering on the TXT is superb and they are truly miniature versions of the bigger pro bikes, we were really happy with the bike. Since moved onto a Beta rev 50 with gears and clutch . Cannot be started in gear, have to go into neutral, steel swinging arm that inevitably rusts, side stand that bends in the wind, rear brake mechanism that fouls the swinging arm....so not impressed
Am looking to upgrade to a Rookie 80
Cheers
-
Dear 16000rpm, I applaud your attempt to help TXT50 owners suffering from the well know issue of dodgy electrics, I think (and hope) that the above was simply a case of crossed wires etc.
We have long since moved on from the TXT50, but I would have been very grateful for your help and kit at the time. I started going down the path of building a CDi unit from scratch, but when I found out the ignition amp was
-
thanks Nick, sound great cheers for the info
-
My lad had one of these and I have a lot of experience on dealing with the known electrical issues around the stator/CDi unit and trigger unit.
Had similar electrical issues. I would change the CDi / electronic ignition unit - costs around
-
quick question folks, can the GasGas 80 Rookie be started in gear by holding in the clutch - just like 'most' bikes ?
My lads Beta 50 4 speed is a pain, if you hold in the clutch in gear the kickstart just free wheels and you can't turn the engine over unless you go into neutral can you believe it, someone actualy must have designed it that way FFS.
Whoever designed it needs their a*** kicking.
-
agreed on the points regarding the oil, go by the level sight glass.
Search on my previous posts for further info regarding overfilling the oil!
Regarding the over ride clutch, you need to give it some revs and operate the lever as the plates will stick - do this a few times to free it up and normally works. Most manual bikes clutches stick as well at first startup, well mine does anyway!
The design does not lend itself to manual conversion, without considerable redesign work and is not worth it. There are rumours on the net about adding an extract plate etc but having stripped and over hauled my lads when he had it, I cant see how this can be achieved. Adding the extra plate will simply mean the clutch is engaged all the time, but with no means of dis-engaging.
They are great bikes to learn on and excellent design and build quality and my lad spent a year on one before moving on up to a geared 50.
-
Thank you very much for taking the time to set out the details, very informative and appreciated.
Best regards
-
Hi - thanks for the replies, very helpful.
Best regards
-
I'm having difficulty finding details regarding 3rd party liability cover for trials. I want some cover for my lad (10 years old) so that if he crashes into some one / something on private land or training grounds etc we would have cover.
He's a member of the ACU through his club, so I'm assuming he has insurance cover as part of the ACU license, but again I can't find any details on the ACU web site around liability cover ?
Any help appreciated
-
HOLD ON!!
One sure way to wreck the clutch basket needle bearing is over filling the crankcase. The sump only holds a small amount, not the 450/500cc as stated in the workshop manuals etc - they are wrong. Use the sight glass to access the level.
If you over fill (as I did once) you will put too much hyraulic drag on the auto clutch pack and ruin the needle bearing that carries the centre hub of the clutch pack on the input shaft.
Be careful & good luck
-
many thanks for the replies and tips, this is good news. Just need to find a nice clean used example
Cheers
-
Hi there - I'm looking for a Transit Connect to replace my Berlingo. Does anyone know if the SWB version would take two bikes, if not what about the LWB?
Cheers
-
Hi - I have a berlingo van (same as the Partner) with ply bulkhead, which whilst reducing the load length considerably it takes my lads TXT50 easily. Bike on side stand and lashed at two points. No problems at all, plenty of headroom. My bike then goes on a Dave Cooper tow bar mounted carrier
Cheers
-
check out this link here:
www.freewebs.com/downloadshare/trials/gasgas-txt-boy.tif
It's a copy of the WorkShop Service manual in .tif format. It won't be around for ever as I need the disk space, so be quick and grab a copy!
Cheers
-
Having completely refurbished the auto clutch on my lads TXT Boy, heres some background info (from memory):
The current setup uses 4 springs to keep the clutch pack apart and look just like a conventional wet multi plate clutch pack in a road bike - however working in reverse. On a conventional wet multi plate clutch pack the springs are used to exert pressure on the clutch pack and provide drive, in the auto TXT Boy it does the opposite.
The clutch pack is compressed by 8 x 5/15" ball bearings that fly out due centrifugal force in machined recesses. The recesses are machined at an angle that forces the balls to ride against the rear of the clutch cage and thus compress the pack.
The clutch lever operates on a central boss that engages with a cross pin that straddles a large washer which in turn has the 4 springs mentioned previously behind and ultimately the rear of the clutch cage.
By depressing the clutch it affectively keeps the clutch cage and hence pack from being compressed by the action of the ball bearings.
In order to convert to manual operation, I would envisage the following:
1) Remove the ball bearings
2) Remove the existing 4 springs
3) Design a system that allows mounting of the 4 springs in such a way that they work in reverse - eg, compress the clutch pack.
NOTE - the existing clutch mechanism should theoretically work without modification as a means of dis-engaging the clutch
I'm sure could be done and indeed sounds like other have succeeded, although it's a shame that no-one has published any details on the design. Basically it boils down to Step 3 as the only issue as far as I can see.
I have been thinking about this mod on my lads bike and will go away and give some serious consideration. Will report back if I get any where.
Regards - Martin.
-
Hi there - are you still having a problem, only our Gas Gas uses a 12V computer PSU fan, dead cheap - cost a fiver - and perfectly adequate performance, even on hot summer days. Get back to us if you need any info on fitting.
Regards
-
I have a MY03 1.9D which retuens over 45 mpg mixed driving. Yes pretty sluggish, but then again it's a van and as I only use it for trials / odd jobs I don't want to be tearing around with the bike/gear in the back anyway. If it was my daily transport I'd welcome the HDi's extra few bhp.
Cons compared to the HDi is not as quick off the line, but that's about it. Pros are it's more economical, the front tyres will last longer and the engine is inherently more reliable, especially if you are lookig at high milers - eg, no turbo seal/bearing failures too worry about.
Ditto on the cam belt - get it changed every 36k, but otherwise it's a simple and well proven power unit.
Great small vans
-
forgot to mention it's only a Berlingo and whilst my lads gasser 50 goes in a treat, not enough room for a bigger bike !
-
thanks Stoford,
was at my lads trial on Sunday chatting to the guys and they reckoned the 125 is plenty gutsy enough - just the availability issue as you say. At least I know a 125 would be OK assuming I find one!
Cheers
-
-
thanks for the suggestion, looks like he does van specific one which should fit the bill and reasonable prices as well !
Cheers
-
Anyone recommend a tow bar mounted bike carrier suitable for a van ? It needs to be able to allow the bikes handlebars to clear the back of the van doors, so I guess the front wheel carrier needs to be at quite an angle to allow the handle bars to clear ?
Adverts for some I have seen imply only suitable for cars
|
|